• Gate Valve DIN3352-F4 Resilient Seated  with Pass Type System 1
  • Gate Valve DIN3352-F4 Resilient Seated  with Pass Type System 2
Gate Valve DIN3352-F4 Resilient Seated  with Pass Type

Gate Valve DIN3352-F4 Resilient Seated with Pass Type

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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1. Structure of Gate Valve Description

1. Selected materials, in line with domestic and international standards, high overall quality of the material.
2. In line with the requirements of domestic and foreign advanced standards, reliable sealing, excellent performance, attractive appearance.
3. Sealing pair advanced and reasonable, gate and seat sealing surface with different hardness Stellite (Stellite) cobalt-based alloy cladding made, reliable sealing, high hardness, wear resistance, high temperature, corrosion good anti-abrasion performance, long life.

2. Main Features of the Gate Valve:

1.Gate valve has long service life
2.No leakage
3.China gate valve manufacturer
4.Factory
5.Good quality,competitive price

Size:DN40-DN600mm
Body & Bonnet:Ductile iron
Flange drilled according to BS4504

3. Images of the Gate Valve:

 

4. Specification of the Gate Valve: 

Design according to DIN3352-F5

Flange drilled according to DIN2501

Body: Ductile iron

Wedge: Ductile iron with NBR/EPDM

Stem: Stainless steel 2Cr13

Stem Nut: Brass

O-ring: NBR/EPDM

Bolt & Nut: Carbon steel or Stainless steel

Bonnet: Ductile iron

Size: DN40-DN600mm

Pressure:PN10/16

5.FAQ

1. Can I get free samples?

A: Yes,we can provide you the free sample, but you need to bear their own delivery costs.

2. Can I request to change the form of packaging and transportation?

A:Yes, We can change the form of the packaging and transportation according to your request, but you have to bear their own costs incurred during this period and the spreads.

3. Can I request to advance the shipment?

A: It should be depends on whether there is sufficient inventory in our warehouse.

4. Can I have my own Logo on the product?

A: Yes, you can send us your drawing and we can make your logo, but you have to bear

their own the cost.

5. Can you produce the products according to my own drawings?

A:Yes,we can produce the products according to your drawings that will be most satisfy you.

Q:I live in Houston (where it hardly EVER freezes during the winter..) This winter it froze and the valve on the sprinkler system flew off and water started shooting straight up. Now that it's getting warmer and I'm going to need the sprinkler.. I have to repair it. Is this an easy fix that I can do myself? Or should I call someone.
If okorder /... If the brass body of the backflow cracked, then you will need to replace the whole thing. That link above has the best prices for these things. Good luck!
Q:The water won't drain around my outside shutoff valve. The faucet at the valve is not dripping any water. Could it be underground problem?
Most homes have a main shutoff valve that goes from the street to the lowest part of the house. usually, they may also have another valve from lowest part of the house to the water fixtures. Ur main drain line is usually 4 feet or more away from the supply incoming line. Your home's outside shutoff valve is called a valve for the supply from your city water. It has nothing to do with your drain system. If you see water coming up from that outside shutoff valve, then a professional plumber needs to dig up the dirt around the valve and replace it. Usually there are no fixtures at this main shutoff valve, unless you are talking about an outside valve for a garden hose? So can u pls rephrase your question?
Q:Ok, I recent rebuilt a set of vortec heads, but the valves I got are a bit longer than stock, I believe .1 competition products pn I2552P. I also installed howards cam 98214 springs with 10° locks and retainers, the locks are +.035. I was just wondering if I would have enough spring pressure.
You need to measure your installed height. No guessing here at all. Measure to be sure. If you don't have a valve spring micometer, you can use a std dail caliper's outside jaws. Remove spring, put retainer on, put 2 locks in, and pull up on retainer till it seats in lock groove. Now measure from spring seat on heads to bottom of retainer.. If you have to then you can measure to top of retainer and then measure thickness of retainer and take that off of your total. You have to know the installed height to figure spring pressure change. The 98214 springs has a rate of 411.. That 411 # per 1 inch and rated installed height is 1.700 So you take the amount of change from the 1.700 and X it by the rate of 411 and that's your total pressure change.. Then take or add that to your rated pressure (which is 115 #) and that gives you your new spring pressure So lets just say installed height is now 1.750 So .050 x 411 = 20.55 #, 115 - 20.55 = 94.45 # total seat pressure Now you need to list the cam your running, diff lift needs diff amount of spring pressure ***EDIT*** Thats a .465 lift cam. If your not winging RPMs past 5,000 then you can get away with a 80 # seat pressure spring, 6K rpm you would need about 5-8 # more seat pressure
Q:I have a 2005 Dodge Durango and had problems with stalling. I took it into the dealer with warranty on it. They said the ECG Valve is busted and its unsafe to drive. Can you guys tell me what the function of this part is?
There's no such thing as an ECG valve on any automobile. You're probably referring to the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve. It's purpose is to pipe a little bit of the exhaust gases back into your cylinders at higher RPMs to both promote cleaner emissions and to cool down the combustion chambers to help prevent knocking and pinging. However, in time an EGR valve can eventually get clogged with carbon which can cause it to get stuck open, which would cause an excessively lean condition during idle and can cause the car to stall. It then needs to be either cleaned (with plenty of carburetor cleaner spray) or replaced. I generally wouldn't say that a defective EGR would make a car unsafe, unless perhaps there's a big crack in it and exhaust gases (carbon monoxide) are leaking into the engine compartment/vents. I would, though, take a little extra care when crossing railroad tracks or turning in front of fast-moving traffic. Stalling there could possibly turn you into a coroner's curiosity.
Q:First off I'm a girl. :) My 2.0 non turbo engine has a bent valve. I have been asked to pick up the valve. But I need to know if its for the intake or the exhaust. I know the guy how is going to fix it said he will have to sand down the cylender that it goes in it. The car sounds like it knocking when driving or sitting still. The guy who is going to fix it is at work right now and I'm suppose to order this part right now. Is it an intake or an exhaust valve?
tell him that you dont sand down the seat.if he does,then he could get it so it wont seat right.he needs to lap the seat.now 1 of the valves are smaller then the other.if it backfires through the exhaust then its the exhaust valve.if he know how to do it,then all he has to do is take a piece of paper and hold it up to the tailpipe and see if it sucks the paper in.
Q:My friend is having 3 valves in her heart replaced with pig valves. Her dr said that putting in human valves raises the risk of her body rejecting them but wouldnt your body also reject a part form different species? And if they only last a few years why use them at all? shes all freaked out about the surgery so I dont want to ask her too many questions
Hello again. The valve I have implanted in me is porcine. Pig valves are sometimes used for a few reasons. First of all, they are much easier to get a hold of. Waiting for a human valve can take a long time. Secondly, there is less risk of rejection. These two reasons make a porcine valve better than having a human valve. You can also have metal valves, but when you have one or more of these you must take crazy medications for your entire life. With porcine valves, no extra medications are needed. So, porcine valves are really the best option. Like I said in a previous answer to one of your questions, I had my surgery when I was 16. I'm 22 now and doing alright. My valve is expected to last 10-15 years, so I expect to go under the knife to have it replaced when I'm 26-31. Unfortunately I have other issues and will have to have the surgery done earlier, and they'll probably change the valve while they're in there already. As far as I know, porcine valves last just as long as human valves. Whichever you have, it's going to clog up eventually anyways.
Q:What is it for? I was given a data set which is a result of antisurge valves testing every 2 seconds or so. (more than 1000 rows, measurements by time) I have no idea how to start analysis of the data like that. Can anyone help?
I would think your spreadsheet is charting every move that the anti-surge valve makes - for example if it opens slightly, it takes a reading, if it closes, then another reading etc. Like the other guy says, it's there to basically protect the machine from surging, and no-flow. You should be able to decipher specific actions from those readings - Recycle Trip or Safety On for example. Recycle Trip is when the software sees the machine approaching the surge line and opens 10% (for example 10%), so you should be able to analyse whether you've had any of these events. As far as I know that's the only reason you would study that data - to compare the action of the anti-surge valve, with the process conditions at the time.
Q:i have a 1990 gmc sierra k1500, 4.3 v6. it has leaking valve seals its only smokes wen i first start it. so im not in to much of a hurry to replace them. wen i do replace them will i have to reset the timing and the valve gap? and could leaking valve seals cause loss of power or performance problems
sounds like valve seals ! no you don,t have to bother the timing ! all you do is remove the plugs, hook up a air compressor and screw 1 end of the hose into the plug hole, take off the valve pan, loosen the rocker and start the compressor up ! once the compressor reaches about 40 to 50 pounds then take out the keeper on the valve stem and replace it with a new seal, if you can get the umbrella type seals, after the seal is replaced put the rocker back on, turn the crank by hand until the rocker is on the low cam and torque the rocker nut ! then you do the same way to the rest of the valve seals !
Q:So I bought my car about 4 months ago (1999 mustang) and the second day the check engine light came on and was the code for the EGR valve. I just reset the ECU and it went off and stayed off until now. Same code for the EGR, but this time after resetting ECU the light continues to come on. Is the EGR valve important enough to have fixed? and I have aftermarket Flomaster exhaust if that would have anything to do with the code being thrown
It used to be a cheap fix. I haven't worked on the newer vehicles, but it used to be an F-shaped plug, with vacuum hoses, that you could replace in a few minutes. Price was under $20. The biggest problem, then, was decoding the codes! I just looked it up and it seems to be pretty simple, and similar to what I worked on. A small diaphragm valve that runs about $50. Ford would probably charge you $300 for the part and another $100 or so to put it on. The EGR valve helps with exhaust and, to some degree, gas mileage. In other words, if you live in a state with strict rules about emissions, you may fail the test. In proper condition, you may notice a little better fuel mileage. Of course, when I drove a sports car, I noticed that a good waxing helped my mileage. LOL I doubt that the Flomaster would cause a problem. This is a sensor issue that is, or should be, directly related to the EGR valve itself. Of course, I haven't worked on vehicles for years, so... Google this and see what you think. Location should give you some pictures to show where it should be on your Mustang and then you can see if you think you can do it. Then, check the prices. If your state is a pain, fixing it is probably cheaper than failing the emissions test. Besides, the more work you can do yourself, the cheaper it is. The only real difference between you and the guys who work in the dealership is a degree (piece of paper) and a fancy machine. You can do the same things they do.
Q:Dr says I have a leake heart valve. Should I be concerned?? He doesn't think so but I am worried. Should I get a second opinion? I am 53 and a diabetic. Has any one ever had this problem?
In reply to the above: I have no clue where Alex M is getting this idiotic information from, but that's just a big load of hogwash...kind of like Dr. Mercola -- who Alex seems to always be toting. Mercola's one of the biggest jokes in medicine today. Now...to your question... If you have a leaking valve (I assume this was diagnosed via an echocardiogram), then it depends on the location and amount of the leak. There are many valves that can leak in the heart. At the age of 53, I would say this sounds more like a mild regurgitation to me. In this case, it poses a relatively LOW risk for anyone, regardless of age or history of disease. If you're currently asymptomatic of it, and don't have a poor ejection fraction (the heart's capacity to eject blood), then I would not worry about it. Sounds like your doctor didn't explain things too well though, so I would call him back for more details or arrange an office visit so you can ask questions and get answers. I don't think a second opinion is necessary, but you are certainly welcome to get one if it will make you feel more informed. I have had MANY patients with this same kind of diagnosis, and they are just fine! No worries. We just do serial echocardiograms on them to evaluate it. Best wishes to you!

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