• GALVANIZED WIRE System 1
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GALVANIZED WIRE

GALVANIZED WIRE

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Product introduction: selected galvanized wire and then processed, the line is arranged tightly,

and fixed with a bracket, or make a bundle rolled wirethe products produced are very beautiful,

is also very convenient to use. Size range 0.6mm6.0mm. This product is mainly used in binding

and manor  garden decorations, both functional and beautiful,the price is very cheap, it is a

garden binding choice products.


Packing:Plastic packing then in carton

                                                                                 

Standard:JIS,KS,ASTM,BS,GB,etc

                                                               

Q:The wire in my headphones broke right next to the jack plug. I had a pair of crappy earphones that I have cut up as a replacement jack plug but no matter what I do I cant get any response. Is it because headphone wires are not compatible with earphone wires?Thank you
Skullcandy Ink'd are in simple terms suited headphones, whatchu talkin' bout, Willis?[: solid Skullcandy Smokin' Buds are appealing first-fee too. Skullcandy's considerable studio-like headphones are uncommon, yet they run approximately $80. i've got bought a pair of Sony sizeable headphones, in spite of the fact that i don't recognize the way lots they fee. they may be stunning outstanding. additionally, attempt Bose. They make in-ear and over-ear headphones.
Q:Has anyone tried to use or experiment to use CAT5E wire on a speaker going to Home theater receiver? If none, can you suggest a good speaker wire to use on a speaker.Paradigm Monitor Series and Onkyo TX-SR606 (Speaker and Receiver)
You can use Cat5 as speaker wire, you need to twist all the wires together and use one wire for positive and another for negative, there are several tutorials on the net on how to use it for best results but its really more trouble than its worth, I use OFC wire from parts express, but any OFC wire or copper wire should do...For shorter runs (under 15 Ft) any speaker wire should work as long as its the proper guage, wire,.. needs to be thicker for longer runs, the guage of the wire is more important than what wire you use, I use 14 guage all the way around just makes it easier to set up and looks better. Inside walls you want to use CL3 wire...this is what code requires in most states...the guage of your wire is going to be determined by the length of your run and the nominal impedance of your speaker, I linked to a chart below that will help you determine guage for your system....what I usually look for is flexability cheaper wire tend to be stiff and is hard to work with while better wire is very flexable, but either will work...
Q:I have installed a new wiring harness on my trailer, and two new LED trailer lights. The tail lights work, both turn signals work, but for some reason, I do not have a brake light on the right side. Both lights are grounded to their own post, and I do have a good ground on the coupler of the trailer. If a turn signal and brake light in a 4 wire system are using the same wire (green in this case)- how can one work, while the other is not? Any good ideas? I really appreciate the help.
assuming it was working ok before....... funky symptoms like that (where you can't imagine the circuit that would make 'em behave like that) almost always turn out to be a weak ground -- like the ground is ok for turn signals because only one side is on at a time, but when you demand enough current to light up both sides, it just ain't happening. you can rule out a ground issue between the vehicle and trailer by hooking a jumper cable between the frames. if that don't produce a change, then run an oversized wire from the fixture direct to the connector.
Q:want to get ready to solderis the fuzzy stuff the wire? or the shiny (positive green and negative red color) the wire? sorry i know its a noob questionlet me knowthanks
wire is metal and metal is orange or silver . The fussy stuff is string
Q:im hooking up a air/fuel tomorrow and i need to know what color the wire for the sensor signal is on my rt... i have 4 wires and heres the colors and were they are from. t/w or o/t from c124 b/lbl from c14 and c315 b gound and o/dg from fuse a... need answer thanks
It should be the BLK/ LB wire (although my wiring schematic shows that wire BLK/ GREEN), It will be the only circuit that have a varying voltage between 0-1 volt. Probe the wires with a DVOM and determine which wire has the signal, one wire will supply B+ for the heater, one is heater ground, one is reference supply voltage and one is signal return The signal return is the circuit you need to tap.
Q:what to do if i unhooked my starter without unhooking my battery and the hot and gound wire caught on fire
Replace the cables, and chalk it up as a learning experience. Now you know why shops charge so much. They learn before doing.
Q:We added an AC to a preexisting sx 80 furnace and we are having a hard time wiring the new thermostat to the furnace, and the condensor to the furnace. Anyone know how to get a wiring diagram?? thanks
furnace will have 5 low voltage terminals,,R,,Y,,G,,W,,C...you have to connect R,,Y,,G,,and W at the furnace to R,Y,G,and W at the thermostat...so you have to use at least 4-conducter tstat wire between the tstat and furnace...typically you would use the red wire to connect the R terminals at tstat and furnace,,green wire for G terminals,,yellow wire for Y terminals and white wire for W terminals.. if your tstat wire doesnt have those exact colors it doesnt matter,,just be sure that the wires connected to R,Y,G,and W at the tstat are connected to R,Y,G,and W at the furnace respectively...if your tstat is programmable and requires a common wire to operate,,then you will need a 5 conducter tstat wire between tstat and furnace...the fifth wire, whatever its color,will need to connect the C terminal at the furnace to the common wire terminal at the tstat,,usually the common terminal at tstat is labeled C but not always.....as far as the outdoor unit goes..you will need at least a 2 conducter tstat wire to connect the Y and C terminals at the furnace to Y and C wires or terminals in the outside unit,,usually 24 volt polarity doesnt matter at the outdoor unit,,in other words as long as the 2 wires outside that are connected to the Y and C terminals in the furnace are connected to the [low voltage] 2 wires / terminals it will work,,unless one of the wires / terminals outside is clearly labeled as common.in that case make sure whatever tstat wire is connected to that wire / terminal is connected to C back at the furnace.....so at the furnace there will be one wire [red] connected to R....2 wires connected to Y. [ one going to Y at tstat,the other going to outdoor unit]...one wire [green] connected to G. and one wire [white] connected to W.....and one wire [common,usually blue] connected to C unless tstat requires a common wire,,in that case there will be 2 wires connected to C at the furnace.......hope i made it clear enough.......dan
Q:so there are 3 different wires coming into the switch. 1 black wire and 2 white wires going to the attic fan (i assume one for high and one for low). the power seems to be coming from the black wire which has inside of it, one white wire (neutral) one black wire (hot) and one bare wire (ground).. the same for the 2 white wires. the switch goes up (^) for high and down (v) for low and has 3 places to attach the wires to. the top, the bottom and the middle.. can someone tell me how to wire this damn thing?
I think you are describing NM cables(Romex). What you have is: 1 black romex with a hot(black) a neutral(white) and a bare ground. and 2 white romexs with a black, white, bare each. right so far? What you probably have is the hot and neutral going to the switch j-box (black romex) and the 2 white romexs go from the switch to the fan j-box. I think I need more info. Do you have a test meter? Are you sure the black romex is the Hot and Neutral? When the wires are disconnected are there other things that don't have power to them? Did you undo the neutral splice? If you could send this info I think I can walk you thru it.
Q:okay my apt building was built in 1975 I am changing my light fixture new from home depot and the ground wire, the black and white wire are basic on the new fixture. I am looking in the case box in my ceiling all I see is a black wire attached to red, and a yellow wire attached to a white wire which then attaches to another two white wires (then gos go's up behind the casing) I am not sure which is the ground here. There is a copper looking wire that is thick, thick it just isnt as malleable as the new ground wire that is on my new light fixture. It seems very difficult to maneuver.. Could this be my ground from the ceiling. It was attached to the mount of the old fixture my a screw.
The wire that was attached to the mount is your ground. (It should be thicker than the one from the fixture. - Use a 'wirenut' to make the connection.) The White wires will be your 'Neutrals'- 'White' from your new fixture. For the 'Black' from the fixture, use the same wire that was connected to the old fixtures 'black'. If you didn't keep track of which is which, then you are now 'in over your head'. Get experienced help before you cause damage or hurt yourself.
Q:I have some salvaged wire from a computer power supply and would like to know it's break-down voltage rating. Most hookup wire is rated at 600 volts but unfortunately, all computer stuff is now made in China. The repair job of a vintage piece of equipment requires wire that can withstand 300 VAC.
Well as it turned out, wire ratings are stamped on the jacket and after a quick look-up, determined salvaged wire from the typical computer power supply is rated for 300 volts.

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