Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct of cnbm
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 1 m.t./month
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Quick Details
Steel Grade: | Steel | Standard: | ASTM,BS,GB | Wire Gauge: | 0.65mm--2.2mm |
Place of Origin: | Jiangsu China (Mainland) | Type: | Drawn Wire | Application: | Construction,Automotive System; Wire Rope |
Alloy Or Not: | Non-alloy | Special Use: | Cold Heading Steel | Model Number: | 0.65mm--2.2mm |
Brand Name: | Rayee | Packing: | Roll packing, Z2 packing | Surface of Steel Wire: | Bright; Galvanized |
Manufacturing Capacity: | 600 tons per month |
Packaging & Delivery
Packaging Detail: | STANDARD EXPORT PACKING OR AS PER CUSTOMER REQUEST |
Delivery Detail: | WITHIN 7-10DAYS AFTER CONFIRMING YOUR ORDER |
Specifications
Galvanized Steel Wire
wire diameter:0.2-5.6mm
zinc coating:30g-260g/m2
Tensile strength: HIGH
Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct
1.MATERIAL:10#-80# STEEL
2.DIAMETER: 0.2MM-5.6MM
3.SURFACE TREATMENT:ELECTRO GALVANIZED,HOT DIPPED GALVANIZED
4.ZINC COATING: 40G/M2 - 300G/M2
5.PACKING:ROLL PACKING WITH PLASTIC SPOOL INSIDE, POLYWOVEN BAG OUTSIDE
STANDARD Z2 PACKING
OR PRODUCE AS YOUR REQUESTS
PLS FEEL FREE TO CONTACT US
Nominal Diameter | Minimum number of reverse bends | Minimum number of Torsions (Bright and Class B) | Minimum mass of coating (g/m2) | ||||
(Bright and Class B) | |||||||
1770 Mpa | 1960 Mpa | 2160Mpa | 1770 Mpa | 1960 Mpa | 2160Mpa | Class B | |
over 0.6mm ~incl. 0.65mm | 11 | 10 | 9 | 28 | 25 | 23 | 60 |
over 0.65mm ~incl. 0.70mm | 10 | 9 | 8 | 28 | 25 | 23 | 60 |
over 0.70mm~incl. 0.75mm | 16 | 15 | 14 | 28 | 25 | 23 | 60 |
over 0.75mm~incl. 0.80mm | 15 | 14 | 13 | 28 | 25 | 22 | 60 |
over 0.80mm~incl. 0.85mm | 13 | 12 | 11 | 28 | 25 | 22 | 70 |
over 0.85mm ~incl. 0.90mm | 12 | 11 | 10 | 28 | 25 | 22 | 70 |
over 0.90mm~incl. 0.95mm | 11 | 10 | 9 | 28 | 25 | 22 | 70 |
over 0.95mm ~incl. 1.00mm | 10 | 9 | 8 | 28 | 25 | 22 | 70 |
over 1.00mm ~incl. 1.10mm | 17 | 16 | 14 | 26 | 23 | 21 | 80 |
over 1.10mm ~incl. 1.20mm | 16 | 15 | 13 | 26 | 23 | 21 | 80 |
over 1.20mm ~incl. 1.30mm | 15 | 14 | 13 | 25 | 22 | 20 | 90 |
over 1.30mm ~ incl.1.40mm | 13 | 12 | 10 | 25 | 22 | 19 | 90 |
over 1.40mm ~incl.1.50mm | 11 | 10 | 9 | 25 | 22 | 19 | 100 |
over 1.50mm ~incl. 1.60mm | 14 | 13 | 12 | 25 | 22 | 19 | 100 |
over 1.60mm ~incl. 1.65mm | 13 | 12 | 11 | 25 | 22 | 19 | 100 |
over 1.65mm~incl. 1.70mm | 13 | 12 | 11 | 25 | 22 | 19 | 100 |
over 1.70mm~incl. 1.80mm | 11 | 11 | 10 | 25 | 22 | 19 | 100 |
over 1.80mm ~incl. 1.85mm | 10 | 10 | 8 | 24 | 21 | 18 | 100 |
over 1.85mm ~incl. 1.90mm | 10 | 10 | 8 | 24 | 21 | 18 | 115 |
over 1.90mm~incl. 2.00mm | 9 | 9 | 7 | 24 | 21 | 18 | 115 |
- Q:installing ceiling fan, when remove light fixture, it has 4 wires system, wires used: white red and green with one light switch, what is black for, it has a wire nut, but has nothing connect to it
- Look in the box where the switch is installed. Is there a black wire that also has a wire nut on it? If so, someone used a little forethought when they ran the wires to this switch. You will connect one of the wires (red or black, doesn't matter which) to the black wire of the fan, and the other goes to the blue wire of the light kit on the fan. Then connect the white to white, and the ground wire goes to the mounting bracket or bare copper wire of the fan. At the switch box, you will need to add another switch for the fan. If there is only room for 1 switch, you can buy a combination fan/light switch that fits in the space of 1 switch, but has controls for both the fan and the light. Hope this helps.
- Q:whenever i try to connect two electrical wires by twisting them together, i hold the two wires paralell to eachother, grab them with needle nose pliers and turn it. it never seems to work though! if anything, it just breaks the wire and i have to strip more insulation! what am i doing wrong? thx
- You may be squeezing too much of the wire with the pliers. You only need to squeeze the tips of the two wires and and twist there. Also it will help if you use something other than needle nose pliers. Try using regular square tip pliers.
- Q:I am trying to run a wire from a breaker box to a new plug. To get to the new plug, I have to run the wire over a garage with a finished ceiling, around, through, or over 2 half staircases ( bi level) to get to the unfinished wall to run to the new plug. What would be the proper way to run this wire.
- That depends on your local and state codes and the conditions. Exposed? Concealed? All dry locations? Distance? I'd have to know way more to give you an accurate answer. Call an electrician to advise you.
- Q:Does Frost Wire have virus
- We've had frost wire for a few months now and we've never gotten any viruses from it. Just make sure that you have anti-virus software installed on your computer. To be safe...
- Q:I get how to solder one wire to the inverter, but how do I do multiple wires? Do I connect end-on-end, or all at the same source? I couldn't find a good website for doing multiple wires...
- The wires do not have to remain straight. If you need to fold one over and make a loop for the others , that's fine. I would suggest you not solder one wire then try to add the other. Get all the wires connected securely, then solder.
- Q:Theirs a green ground wire, a white neutral wire and for some reason 3 black wires.
- it could be for the lights if its an option otherwise connect all the black together to the hot wire. What does the instructions say? worst it can do is trip the breaker.
- Q:I am planning to wire my single sub 400rms svc to my amplifier 400rms x 1 @4 ohms. My car model is 94 mitsubishi lancer. how many AWG ( gauge) should I use? Like for Power, ground, speaker wire. I just want to have the full potential of my sub and ampli.For my 2nd question: if I decided to put a 2nd sub wired it on the same amp making it 800rms x1 @ 2 ohms. (my amplifier is a class d mono 1600 watt peak by the way) should I need to use a capacitor?Thank you
- The power wire and ground wire should be the same guage. Here is a simple calculator to help you out. Good luck!
- Q:Hi,I'm trying to install a ceiling light with a 3 wire configuration (white, black, ground) into a wire configuration of 4 wires (white, red, black, ground). This is configured for two on/off switches.So far, I have white to white, black to black, and ground to ground with the red capped off. This works with one switch perfectly, however when I hit the other switch, the circuit breaker blows.Please help, and thank you!
- I think according to your description of the wire configuration what you have is a power supply at the switches and 2 lead wires (red and black) coming up to power the light and fan separately. The white wire, or neutral wire is for a return path while the ground wire is a backup in the event the neutral fails.At the switch in the wall, you should note a black wire (power source) coming to the bottom terminal of any switches. From there, you will find another black or red wire going to the light itself. The neutral wires are all connected together and tucked away in the switch box. If the 4 wire configuration is from the fixture itself, then you would have a black wire for power to the light, a red wire for power to the fan unit while the white is a neutral return. If there is only one wall switch, you could in theory, connect the black and red from the fixture to the power supply coming up from the switch and therefore use the pull chains located on the fixture to turn on the light or fan or both. Failing this, it would be best to call a qualified electrician and protect yourself from what could be a nasty fire. Good Luck.
- Q:So I need to tap a few wires, and cut 1 wire and join it with another wire..What would be the best way to approach this? Here are the full instructions so you guys have an idea on what I'm trying to do.quot;On the TAN plug there is 1 ALL PINK(E7) wire you need attach the WHITE wire from your relay to that but don't cut the PINK wire just tap the WHITE into it.Next go the the GREY BCM plug there are 3 WHITE wires.
- The instructions seem pretty straight-forward. T-Taps and squeeze-connectors are basically the same thing; achieving the same results, which is to add a connection to an existing wire without interrupting the line. Just make sure you use the right size and type, meaning; don't use a low-voltage connector for a high-voltage application... You'd just fry it up. For the cut wires, I'd use crimp-connectors and some shrink-wrap. Again, using the correct connector. You can use wire-nuts, but the crimp-connectors are a more permanent fix. Good luck to ya.
- Q:What's the metal wire fabric?Such as title
- Because the implant metal wire fabric because of the overall color bright, if there is a light metal, can reflect the specific metallic luster. But note that not only the characteristics of metal wire fabric in metallic luster, and anti-static, with anti radiation, more conducive to regulate all aspects of the body
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Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct of cnbm
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 1 m.t./month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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