Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1324.8
- Supply Capability:
- 1324800 m²/month
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Advantages of Full Polished Porcelain Tile:
The porcelain polished floor tiles are non-slip and easy clean and with natural veins.
The porcelain polished tiles are hardness, which are resistant to acid and alkali, waterproof, wear resistance, dirt resistacne.
Good for indoor wall and floor decorations. Elegance, promote your decorate style.
The porcelain polished tiles with high quality are ideal for creating a beautiful feel in Hotel, House, Supermarket, Shopping Mall, etc
The porcelain polished tiles ,water absorption rate :<0.1%.< span="">
Many colors can be chosen.
The porceline tiles have 600*600,800*800 sizes, special sizes available according to request.
CE: GB/T19001-2008¬¬—ISO9001:2008
This is the best tile for hotel lobby flooring, airport, big project etc..
We have many different color and different design in this series. Please kindly check our website.
It's good for house flooring, super market, shopping mall, warehouse flooring, etc..
Our price is very competitive, and very good quality.
We have many certificates of our tiles
Main Export Markets:
Australasia
Central/South America
Eastern Europe
Mid East/Africa
North America
Western Europe
Product Pictures :
FAQ:
1. Why Us:
More than 20 years tile exporting experience, RMB 200 million sales every year.
More than 20 years tile factory running-well management experience.
Excellent quality and Competitive price, OEM is available.
Widely professional exporting experience all over the world.
2. What is the trade terms:
Payment: T/T 50% in advance, balance against copy of T/T, L/C etc.
3. What is the delivery time
15- 20 after deposit paid
4. Can you provide the samples to check?
We can provide the clients free samples.
- Q:I need to remove several tiles for repair and replace the tiles with as little damage as possible
- First thing you need to do is take out the surrounding grout. Once that is removed you can chip out a corner and work inward w/o any pressure against the closer tiles. This is why you take out the grout, it causes pressure against the next tile and it will cause chipping when you use a hammer and chisel . Once you have a corner chipped off , use a small chisel or a junk screw driver to get in between the mortar and the tile. Once the tile is out the glue or thin set can be scraped out down to the substrate . Clean and sweep well before regluing the new tile. Any other questions you can e mail me thru my avatar .. I ve had to do to many of these things over the years repairing other peoples tile.. GL
- Q:We are going to replace the bathtub that came with our house, built in 1986, but we can not decide whether or not to just get a regular bath combination shower or just the bathtub and tile the shower walls...any suggestions or experience with this that anyone would be able to recommend either way?
- What type of flooring is in the room? Do you have another shower? I really like look of tile, but not cleaning it. I would recommend using a medium/dark grout.
- Q:I have a pistol grip glass cutter with a carbide cutting wheel....can this be used to cut ceramic tile, or am I better off to get tile nippers?
- You score tile with the glass cutter. For other than straight cuts those nippers are still useful.
- Q:I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
- Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
- Q:I have recently glued mosaic (mirrior finish) tiles onto a wall of mine, however I have noticed a few tiles, have almost sorta withered away at the back, it also almost looks as if the mirror backing scraped away, now giving more of a clear look. I would now want to remove some of the tiles out, Would it be advisable to use a chisel and hammer, to chip away the tile, or is there anything I can use to repair the tile.Much Appreciated
- I'm not sure if the tiles are individual, or part of a mat. Either way I wouldn't use a chisel because you could damage the surrounding tiles, you could loosen the backing (mirror finish) of the surrounding tiles, and you could even damage the backing the tile is attached to, especially if it's attached to drywall instead of backerboard. First you want to cut through any grout. You can buy a cheap blade for this, or if you have a dremel tool or something similar, they make inexpensive grout removal tips. If there isn't any grout, you'll need to cut through the webbing if the tiles came attached to each other. You can do this with a knife, box cutter etc... At this point the only thing holding the tile in will be the glue. At this point you can gently use a chisel to break the bond. Hold the chisel upside-down, so the back of the chisel faces you and the angle is against the wall. Some call this paring, basically it allows the chisel to ride across the surface cutting behind the tile. Using it the standard way will cause the chisel to dig into the drywall or backerboard. Hope this helps, e-mail with any questions, Alan
- Q:but now we have decided to probably go with laminate tile in each. Mainly time is the big thing, I know I can put that in but not sure about tile. Anyways is this a good decision. Does anyone have experience with laminate tile and if so can you recommend where or what brand to look at. Also can you give me an idea of pricing..Thanks...
- Are you talking about vinyl squares or Laminate flooring that snaps together? It makes a big difference. If it is vinyl squares Home Depot does have a huge selection, but it will look cheap and that stuff does not stick very well for long term in a very wet area. If it is laminate flooring it will look nicer and will hold up to the moisture better. You will need to caulk the perimeter with silicone. (water on top is o.k. water under the floor and its all over very quickly.) Hope this helps
- Q:How to completely remove the double-sided adhesive on the tile?
- First of all, we can use the removal of nail polish to clean the water to see, but because the light to the water is likely to make the original color of the wall also followed off, so it is recommended in the obvious small places try more insurance. Or, we can take a piece of vinegar covered with dry cloth, to cover the entire double-sided adhesive traces of the place, until the double-sided adhesive sticky stains completely wet, you can use the ruler easily removed.
- Q:I will be putting matching ceramic tile as molding....what is the best way to attach the ceramic molding to the wall?
- Thinset mortar. They sell it at any hardware store. Buy the powdered form and mix it yourself. The premixed tends to cause problems because it contains an additive to keep it from drying out in the container. This can cause slippage of your tiles and be very frustrating.
- Q:Home Depot discontinued this tile and I need more...
- we okorder ,which show the product of our company
- Q:The previous owner placed VCT tiles on beautiful hardwood floors. I want to remove them, without messing up the wood too bad, since I want to sand and wax the floors after I remove them.Is there a way to do this without ruining the floors?Can I rent a machine? Should I try to heat up the tiles? They are glued on very well, and its a large area. The machines I have seen so far, look like they are made to remove tiles that are placed on concrete. Thanks in advanced
- Vct Tile Removal
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Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1324.8
- Supply Capability:
- 1324800 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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