• Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLAW001 System 1
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLAW001 System 2
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLAW001

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLAW001

Ref Price:
$6.15 - 6.25 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLAW001 is a very popular color in the present market. Just like other models, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its stone like surface, being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Full Polished Porcelain Tile, high glossy

   Grade AAA available only

  Strict quality control system on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

  Comprehensive marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team available for the whole order operation process

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Size Tolerance: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, , 35KgS/Ctn, 36 Ctns/Pallet, 780 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1123.2 m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 56Kgs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 500 Ctns/20’Fcl, 960 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLAW001

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLAW001

 

FAQ

  

1.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton. If the order quantity is over 5 containers, we could print the carton of client’s design for the final packing.

 

2.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

 

3.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

 

4.   Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.

 

5.   Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?

—— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.

 

6.   Could we be your exclusive agent in our country?

—— Possibly. For some countries we are hoping to find a proper partner in working market together. For sure we need to have a good talking for the details.

 

7.   Could we arrange the our own QC to check the items before container loading?

—— Yes, of course. Your quality checking will be welcome all the times.

 

Q:I have water damage on a ceiling tile in my basement. The water damage is on a tile on the perimiter of the room. The water damage is adjacent to the room wall. However when I pulled the tile up I was surprised that I didn‘t find the source to any water above it. There was also no water damage on the tile where the angle bracket held the tile up. The water damage on the tile started in a straight line from the edge of the angle iron. Also there appeared to be a larger brown stain on the finished underside of the tile with a much smaller slightly damp appearance on the unfinished top of the tile. I‘m wondering if this means that my water source is not above the tile but in fact moisture from the room. However all of my other tiles around this one are dry with no damage. Thanks in advance.
Sometimes water leaks start at a different spot and move down to the center and just sits there and builds up. I would change the tile and keep checking it until I can figure out where the leak is, then fix it (the leak).
Q:We just installed laminate wood floors tiles in our open space living/kitchen room. We put ceramic tiles in the kitchen area the wood laminate in the living area. Due to time constraints we had to get the laminate installed first before the tiles. Our tiler was supposed to put something between the wood the tiles but didn‘t. He‘s not being very cooperative about completing this, so we are trying to do something ourselves.What can we put there, so that the grout stops coming apart where the tiles laminate wood meet?Thanks.
Hopefully, your tile guy used a metal edge to end the tile. It makes for a cleaner look for a transition to another floor. If he did not, it just makes it a bit more difficult but not impossible... My suggestion would be to use silicone in between the two floor types. Grout will always crack there if there is no edge installed. The laminate floor moves and the tile doesn't (hopefully, or you have more problems to look forward to with cracking grout...) so the silicone allows the movement. It does depend on what colour the grout is but if it's white, almond, dark grey/black; you can use silicone right out of the tube in place of the last bit of grout or between the metal edge and the laminate. You will have to scrape out some of the grout from the transition area... about 1/16 deep where the tile ends and the laminate starts. If it is not a standard silicone colour, you have to mix clear silicone with some grout powder (on a sheet of cardboard or something... to make a silicone grout that matches...) and force it in the crack with your finger. Use masking tape to cover the laminate edge and the edge of the tile and leaving an open area between... take the tape off while the silicone is wet and rub any excess off each surface. Once it is cured, you can rub off the remaining excess silicone from the tile with your finger. Even if the colour is not exact, grout changes colour (darker) over time... even if you seal it... the seal wears out, most people don't keep up with re-sealing etc... Sounds time consuming yes, but works well and worth the effort as opposed to a threshold trim that will result in a high spot over the joint. Good luck!
Q:Ok the room is 12X16 thats 192 square foot right? well each box of tile is 30 square foot how many boxes would i need
Allow 10% for waste. That would mean 192+19.2=211.2 211.2/30=7.04 boxes Buy 7.
Q:The house has been living for two years, these days do not know the weather is wet or how the matter, the bathroom tile actually fell a few pieces, but fortunately did not break. Now want to paste it back, I would like to ask, how to paste? With cement? Or what other glue? Do you want to drink again before There is also a problem with the brick at that time, but the closure or other problems? Another: Tiles are Mona Lisa. Thank you!
If the individual tiles fall off, you can re-use the pure cement paste the tiles, but if it is falling out of the tiles of the wall is not on the original cement cleared, then the cement paste will make this place higher than the original Out of the point, and the removal of the original cement with a certain degree of difficulty, because in this piece of empty space at the four corners of the cement is more difficult to remove, confused will not fall off the tiles broken. There is also a way to: buy a group of "AB resin glue", according to the instructions on the plastic tile in the fall of the reverse, in the paste to the original place, and so about 10 minutes after the initial curing, and so on 24 After hours, it will be a very good sticky. But if you use glue, it must ensure that the wall and the place to be tiled are dry, can not have humidity, otherwise it will stick.
Q:i used the baskup board, the adhesive, then put the adhesive on each tile.
I would assume that you are talking about tiles on the floor ..that can be a number of things..#1 the floor has movement...should have 2 or more layers of structural plywood or similar product with joints overlapped...and be 1.25 thickness or more...#2 if you used adhesive (glue) is it for floor tiles and are they of the right size...most larger ties need a thinset type mortar...#3..are the tiles you used floor tiles...wall tiles should not be used on the floor...#4..if the adhesive does not support the entire tile any void could create a weak spot and direct pressure would crack the tile..#5.. the actual floor support may not be strong enough or the span too long thus you would get deflection (movement) if the floor moves or flexes your tiles will loosen or crack.
Q:I have several boxes of wall tile and I would like to use some on a floor. Is this okay? What is the difference?
unless it is porcelain the make up of the tile is not strong enough to withstand the weight and traffic it would be up under
Q:How can I find out how many tiles I need to buy?
Multiply the length by the width of the room, and that will give you the total square footage. If you are doing it in peel back tiles, it is 12 inch, and they are called vynal stick down tiles. (so if your square footage is 400 square feet, you will need 400 tiles) It would probably be best to stick with a 12 inch tile whether you use ceramic tile or stick down. You might also consider to do floating or laminate flooring, we are doing that in our kitchen next week. The guys at Lowes can help you calculate how much you need. Laminate flooring needs a padding, but it snaps together faster, and is less mess than grout. If you kitchen floor is in good condition, you can lay laminate over it. If your old flooring is lynoleum, you could lay the padding over it and then lay the laminate flooring over that. I think it is best to remove the old flooring though. If you are doing stick down tiles, you are going to have to do a wooden under layment. Probably 1/4 inch lugan (sp?) It is really smooth. Or 1/4 inch underlayment made for stick down tiles. I think it comes in 4x4 sheets. The only way you could skip the underlayment is if the lynoluem doesn't have a pattern, and is totally smooth, because if you lay tile over old flooring it is likely to pop up over time. So you have to glue and secure the underlayment every 6 inches, with something like liquid nails or ring shanked nails for underlayment. You know it might be better to tell me what kind of flooring you are going to use and then let me take it from there. The floating flooring is the easiest to do if you don't have a lot of experience in flooring. Can you repost your question and give me more details, so I can answer better.
Q:We are building a house and were thinking about installing a tiled shower, but I heard from a friend that they get dirty quickly and are very time consuming.
With all the tile selections today, I would certainly opt for a tile shower, regardless of how long it would take to install. As far as cleaning, you will have to clean any shower surface just as frequently as the next. Just select a tile that does not show water spots. Use the right grout or seal it properly and you should be good to go.
Q:ok, I am grouting my ceramic tile in my kitchen and I sponged the tile when I was done and waited for everything to dry. I buffed the dry grout off of the tiles and I noticed that there is dry grout on the tiles and I can‘t get it off. Is there anything I can buy to take the grout off of the face of the tiles before I seal them? Please help.
I just tiled my kitchen too. I wiped them down a million times before I sealed them. Some parts I had to sponge more then others. I dont know how long you let the tiles sit beofre you grouted...I waited about a day. Then grouted and wiped a million times. I then waited about 3 days before sealing the grout. It looks pretty good. If its only a few tiles, try scrubbing a bit harder over that area. The sealer might help too once you get it on there.
Q:HI ,THIS IS MY FIRST TILE PROJECT. I AM INSTALLING A BACKSPLASH ON SHEETROCK USING 4.5X4.5 PORCELAIN TILES. USING OMNIGRIP MASTIC APPLIED WITH A 1/4 X 3/16 V-NOTCH TROWEL. THE TILES HAVE A WAFFLE BACK. MY CONCERN IS DO I HAVE TO FILL IN THE WAFFLE DEPRESSIONS,WHICH SEEM TO BE 1/16 DEEP,BY BACK BUTTERING PRIOR TO APPLYING TILE TO COMBED MASTIC. ALSO, IS THE TROWEL SIZE CORRECT?P.S. WHY DO SOME TILES HAVE A WAFFLED BACK AND SOME A PRACTICALLY FLAT BACK? THANKS!
you must change your space for your kitchen space first

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