• Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6AA306 System 1
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6AA306 System 2
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6AA306

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6AA306

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction


Tile Type

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Nano Finish

Size

60x60mm

Other Choices

many designs, size, colors


Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6AA306 is one of the most popular color of Crystal Jade Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6AA306

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6AA306


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.




Q:Do you fill up the grout all the way to the top or only upto inner edge? We filled it up to the inner edge, but now the grout and the tile edges are starting to collect dirt very easily and it is very hard to clean. We are thinking of regrouting all the way to the top so that it will be easier to clean. Is that the correct way to grout these tiles?
Most all tiles ( there are exceptions) are always grouted flush to avoid a couple of things. One is the problem your having now and the other is to protect the edging of the tile.depending on just how much more you have to fill in, you make have to dig some grout out to get a proper bond.. Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar and check my qualifications there GL
Q:We just installed laminate wood floors tiles in our open space living/kitchen room. We put ceramic tiles in the kitchen area the wood laminate in the living area. Due to time constraints we had to get the laminate installed first before the tiles. Our tiler was supposed to put something between the wood the tiles but didn‘t. He‘s not being very cooperative about completing this, so we are trying to do something ourselves.What can we put there, so that the grout stops coming apart where the tiles laminate wood meet?Thanks.
Hopefully, your tile guy used a metal edge to end the tile. It makes for a cleaner look for a transition to another floor. If he did not, it just makes it a bit more difficult but not impossible... My suggestion would be to use silicone in between the two floor types. Grout will always crack there if there is no edge installed. The laminate floor moves and the tile doesn't (hopefully, or you have more problems to look forward to with cracking grout...) so the silicone allows the movement. It does depend on what colour the grout is but if it's white, almond, dark grey/black; you can use silicone right out of the tube in place of the last bit of grout or between the metal edge and the laminate. You will have to scrape out some of the grout from the transition area... about 1/16 deep where the tile ends and the laminate starts. If it is not a standard silicone colour, you have to mix clear silicone with some grout powder (on a sheet of cardboard or something... to make a silicone grout that matches...) and force it in the crack with your finger. Use masking tape to cover the laminate edge and the edge of the tile and leaving an open area between... take the tape off while the silicone is wet and rub any excess off each surface. Once it is cured, you can rub off the remaining excess silicone from the tile with your finger. Even if the colour is not exact, grout changes colour (darker) over time... even if you seal it... the seal wears out, most people don't keep up with re-sealing etc... Sounds time consuming yes, but works well and worth the effort as opposed to a threshold trim that will result in a high spot over the joint. Good luck!
Q:I want to remove all the white tiles in my kitchen as some are broken, others don‘t match up and basicially who ever tiled it initially may have been intoxicated, some have come off easy, but others are stuck on tight, tried using a chisel hammer to smash them, but they would splinter and smash like glass, does anyone know a easier less messier way i can do this?
Well- this is demo and its never pretty. Try getting behind it and working it with a pry bar, Perhaps it will come off in bigger pieces . Please wear gloves and googles as tile shards will cut you like a razor.
Q:The ceramic tile in my kitchen is cracked at a lot of different spots. My guess is the previous owner didn‘t put a thick enough plywood before installing the ceramic tiles. I want to replace them, but I just realized that right now my floor is perfectly leveled with the hallway and living room and adding more plywood would screw it all up. What options do I have to get around this issue?
Tear it up and maybe you can level it without adding more plywood if not replace the plywood too. Or you can tear it up and put some thin plywood down and put a threshold in the doorway that will cover up the height difference.
Q:I have a 10 gallon tank for my adult female leopard gecko, and I have these two tiles for the substrate. I am going to fill in the cracks between the two tiles with sand so it will look nice, i want your guys input on this please.
I have slate tiles in my geckos 20 gallon long tank and I love it, its been a great substrate so far. It was pretty cheap I believe I paid like $10 bucks for 3 tiles. Alot of leo owners use slate tiles because of how natural it looks like you mentioned and easy to clean. He loves it and lays his belly on the tiles for heat Its very easy to clean just scoop the poop or use wet paper towels to clean. And yes it is good to use sand underneath the tiles to block some of the extra heat, because UTH's can get hot. I used about 5 small bags for my 20 long, and it reaches 90 degrees which is great. Measure the 10 gallon and try to get the biggest slate tiles that will fit. I filled in the cracks with sand so crickets cant get into the cracks. I filled the extra space on the sides of the tank with small rocks over the sand and it looks great, (home depot didnt have tiles that would fit the whole terraium). But overall slate tiles have been the best substrate Ive used so far so much better then reptile carpet and so much easier to clean.
Q:I am looking to tile my livingroom/kitchen area appx 500sf. I am going with porcelain due to the strength ( i was told its better). My question is for resal (4-5 years) what is a better tile to lay; polished tile or regular glaze. I like the shiny clear coat look the polished has but someone mentioned it picks up footprints and it is not good for resale.Also, I was thinking that If I went with a larger tile, 18X18 or larger that it would look much cleaner with less grout lines, but since its only an area of 500sf that it would make my place look smaller than it is?any suggestions are helpful. Thanks
You don t necessarily need to go with a porcelain. They are vastly over sold. They can be a great tile but not always stronger. So you know, these are not polished, its just the glaze thats put on them. Only stones such as granites and marbles are polished. Two things you have to consider of they brighter glazed tiles ( porcelains or ceramic) You have to think about the slip resistance on the shinier tiles. They are rated 0-4 for the residential settings You only want a 3or 4 rated tile or classified tile.the othe consideration is that the shiny tiles will show day to day dirt and water spots easier. Where your matte or satin type finishes show a minimal amounts. The larger tiles do a nice job as far as less grout but care must be taken when installing because these larger tiles can be slightly different sizing and I ve seen slightly warped tile when they get this big. They can be harder to set with a smaller joint, so make sure the installer has some background. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:The tile is one week old. I have had the company pull tiles, regrout and patch. I have new cracks every day. Can I reasonable ask them to start over?
I don't know if you watch HGTV, but there is a Holmes on Homes episode that covers this very situation. In that episode they ended up ripping up the entire floor sub-floor, started again. The tile guys laid down a concrete board that is designed for that purpose, but they laid it over the old linoleum floor when that floor needed to be ripped up 1st a new sub-floor laid down. The cracking is probably caused by the tiles shifting in some way. Either the subfloor is inadequate, or the adhesion of the tiles to the subfloor is inadequate. As you walk over the floor the tiles move, the grout cracks. You may have a fight on your hands. Most contractors don't like to do their work all over again, but I suspect that is what needs to be done here. Cracking in a ceramic floor that is only one week old suggests to me that you had the great misfortune to hire somebody who really doesn't know about laying ceramic floors. It would probably be more than reasonable to ask them to do the job over, but I don't know if that would be advisable if you want to end up with a ceramic floor free of cracks. If they didn't know how to install your floor in the 1st place, then I wouldn't expect then to have studied up on the right way to do it after only one week. If it were me, I'd ask them to come in and remove the tiles and give me a full refund so that I can go find someone who knows what he is doing. Good Luck!
Q:I‘d like to recover my kitchen floor with linoleum tiles - mainly because they are relatively inexpensive, I can do it myself and I can do it at my pace (not moving all of my appliances out in a day). Has anyone used them and if so, what do you like/dislike about them?
Its wise to under take any DIY that you can do yourself,because you can save and also it gives you great satisfaction that you done it.Regarding the laying of the tiles its quite easy,before you start have a plan to how you going to lay them,especially the cutting ones near the edges.You can also move it over if the cut is to small. I think you have to heat them before you lay them as to make them more flexable,take care not too over heat them.Start with the full tiles first and leave the cutting for last....good luck
Q:The ceramic tile in my shower is looking really shabby and I‘d like to re-do it in subway tiles on the walls and mini hexagonal tiles on the floor. Has anyone ever re-tiled an old shower? What should I keep in mind? It is a single story house that is about 30 years old and I beleive it is all the original stuff.
I have retiled a couple of showers, and this is basically what you're in for: You need to remove all of the old tile. This could require removing the grout, but you may be able to use a scraper and get the old tiles off without removing the grout. Then you will be replaceing the sheet rock that was under the old tiles (make sure to use green board it's water resistant). This will give you a new and smooth surface to put up new tile. Then you need to get your tile, grout, plastic t-shaped spacers, and fast setting tile mortar. You can buy pre-mixed mortar, or mix your own (pre-mixed is easier, but a little more expensive). Use a mortar trowel (the kind with the saw toother edges) to spread a thin layer of mortar evenly on a section of wall. Then place the tile and use the plastic t-shaped spacers to keep the seperated, and even. After the tile has had time to set (the next day in most cases) mix up your grout, and apply it to the edges of the tiile. This will be messy, but don't worry, you can wipe the grout right off of the tile surface. After the grout dries, you want to use a grout sealant to make sure the grout is resistant to water. Unsealed grout will deteriorate, and also grow mold and mildew. hope that helped... it can be a bit challenging if it's your first time, but doing it yourself can also save you hundreds in labor costs.
Q:i would like to paint over the old yellow tile on our bathroom walls, and of course in the shower. is that possible, and how can i do that?
no,use a scraper and remove it,replace with corian

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