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- Q:how to set up a cement slab?
- Preparation for pouring a cement (concrete) slab would include: 1.digging in the earth to leveling the area and provide enough space for the slab. A standard for my area is 4 of concrete with 6x6 wire or 6 of concrete without reinforcement. The more uniform the area the greater is the ability to predict the size of the required pour. 2. setting up forms While I have seen expansion joints thrown into wet concrete a better job is when the expansion joint is placed against a subdivision of the slab. 3. pour the concrete making sure that any wire mesh reinforcement is not touching the earth. 4 screeding off the concrete 5 pulling up forms and any additional finishing. including stamping, coloring or other texturing This is a very searchable topic.
- Q:1)what do you mean by portal cement? 2)wt is the meaning of analar element? tnx.?
- Portland Cement is cement made using limestone from Portland, Dorset, England. Analar is a mark meaning very high grade of purity. I expect it stands for analytical reagent.
- Q:calculate quantity of cement needed?
- You don't need cement at all. Ceramic tile is installed using thinset mortar. There are several types depending on the particular type of tile and the substrate you will cover. Additives are recommended for certain situations. The tile manufacturer should have a recommendation for mortar type and additives, if needed. Mortar coverage is given as a range, and each manufacturer will state that range on the bag. A typical sanded mortar will cover 0.3 to 0.4 square meters per kilogram. A 50 kg bag will cover 15-20 square meters, so only about half a bag would be required to do an 8 square meter area. Mortars are often packaged in multi-wall bags that include a plastic layer to reduce the infiltration of water vapor. Mortar, like any cement-based product, will absorb moisture from the air and degrade over time. Two layers of plastic bags tightly sealed with twist ties will keep leftover mortar fresh for future projects.
- Q:How do I use rubber cement?
- When I've used rubber cement, I've applied a coat to both surfaces to be glued, let it dry until tacky ( when it no longer looks shiny and is slightly sticky to the touch) and then put them together. Putting them together is the tricky part: the rubber cement sticks right away, and it's hard to re-place whatever you're trying to glue, so you have to place the pieces correctly on the first try. I've never used a tool like that to smooth paper (correction: I've never smoothed paper, but when I've used a tool like that I've used it to make neat folds). I would guess the unpointed end, but past that I have no idea. Sorry. If you use the rubber cement properly you can just smooth the paper with your fingers as you glue it down, and you shouldn't need to use a tool at all. Good luck!
- Q:Please where can I find resources on placement issues related to oil well cementing?
- You okorder.com). Most of the published information has to be purchased through the Society of Petroleum engineers. Off the top of my head, some of the issues are being able to pump a heavy viscous fluid like cement across under pressured formations. You have to apply enough pressure to move the cement, but you have to stay below the fracture pressure of the rock formations. If you don't, the formation will break down and the cement will flow in to that zone, called a thief zone, and cement will not make it all the way up the casing. The other issue is keeping casing centralized in the wellbore so that cement will be placed evenly around the casing. If the casing is not centered, then the cement may not might not completely encase the casing, leaving void spaces where channels can form, where oil and gas could flow.
- Q:Cement Stain..?
- Get some cement cleaner, and be prepared to do some scrubbing. A floor scrubber would make the job easier, although the rent might be an issue for you. They generally are not expensive, but there is still that cost to consider. After you get the stain out, provided that you can, put a cement sealer on that floor. Use at least 2 coats, 3 would be better.
- Q:how is strength of cement mixture affected when mixed with sand ?
- we assume the cement (Portland cement) is of the correct ratio. we also assume we are talking about compressive strenght when we have just enough cement to fill the spaces between the rock we have reached the maximum strength. number 2. is no good as it reacts with the cement mixture number 4. allows for compression and cracking of the cement. number 3. .....pits i dont know what is pits number 1. is the same as rock ......the best here so .... the order my guess ....... 2,4,1
- Q:Used PVC cement for CPVC - ok?
- If the joint is in an area that cannot be seen, I would change it out with a couplings and a piece of pipe. It is no longer code to use a combination glue that was manufactured for both PVC and CPVC. This should tell you that PVC glue on CPVC will probably not hold.
- Q:If we have 1 ton of cement at 40 degree celcius and we want to take it at 20 degree celcius by using ice,?
- Not sure if this is a practical or theoretical question.If practical, the amount of ice must be calculated in advance, and the cement mix adjusted . If the mix is made regular, the addition of ice to cool it will make the final mix incorrect.
- Q:Cement Board or Plaster Board in shower?
- Both systems would work. I think the cement-board option is a little bit better. But if you want to be really sure the shower will last your lifetime. Ask the cement board contractor if he will seal the cement board before he installs the tile. Don't ask him how much extra he will charge right off let him bring that up - but expect it to cost a little more. If the floor of the shower is tile as well insist on the sealer. as well as cement board. Most contractors don't like tile floors, they tend to go with preformed one piece bottoms - highly recommend that.
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