flexible ducts INSULATION aluminum CVBD insulation mylar

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Product Description:

Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

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Q:I am using super tuff r insulation to insulate between the rafters to leave them xposed. The roofing is raw. d?
The foil side should go to the outside. I believe it's a moisture barrier.
Q:what would be average hourly wage for roof insulation installer on the gold coast?
I think it is 10 australian doller per hour of 200 sq yd of roofing .It differ state to state
Q:Is it true that aluminium foil between insulation and roof covering will prevent aliens from observing you?
Make a hat out of tin foil like some of the people in the mental hospital do. No roofer in his right mind would go near your house if you tell him this outlandish story you claim to be circulating about space invaders. Mentally unstable people tend to scare normal folks away in droves, see a therapist or get a new joke writer because I'm not buying it either.
Q:Can you insulate an attic in a house with a metal roof? (sweating)?
Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.
Q:If a roofing contractor offers an insulation material with an R value of 2.5 instead of 3?
You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.
Q:Can I tear out all of the blow in insulation in the roof?
Don't remove the insulation, unless it has mold in it too. Locate the source(s) of your mold problem inside your building... a high rate of interior bulk moisture, and eliminate that. Then make sure the bathrooms have exhaust fans that are wired-in with the light switch (so whenever someone turns the light on, the fan comes on too), and that the fans are vented out of your attic (otherwise you'll have mold inside your attic). Also, make sure the kitchen exhaust fans vent outside (and the clothes dryers too).
Q:We need to remove are old roof insulation, how shall we go on about it?
I was an insulation installer for a time and this is what we did. We never took out old insulation; this is even when we blew it into the walls. We used cellulose wood fiber aka recycled paper preferable news paper and phone books. After the stuff was ground up Borax and Boric acid was added to make it fire proof. This stuff was blown in on top of the old stuff, usually 6 to 8 inches. All you do is have one person in the attic who sits down, with a hose in hand you plow it in and take measurement as you move along to be sure it is the thickness you want. Try to keep it even and smooth (like icing a cake). The other person stands next to the blower, which is place outside our in the garage (ours was in the back of a truck). This person must keep the hopper full and walk from the blower to the attic to physically look at you for safety reasons. Both must were face mask over your mouth and nose, you may want to wear goggles as well. I didn’t like goggles because they fogged up. Before you start work out emergency calls and other communication. We did this by turning the blower on and off with the remote switch (which you must have in the attic). If you take the square footage of your attic to the store the sales person can tell you how much you need. This info use to be on the back of the bag and it is easy to do. Make sure you have the correct number of roof vent for the square footage of your space. Have a fun time doing it and it will be over in no time! The blowers may have the formula to figure how much you can do per square foot per hour. This will let you budget your time better, remember that formula is usually how much can be blown per hour; the other task will eat into that time frame. To do the side walls is a bit more involved, but if you need help with that as well I would be glad to tell you the details.
Q:is it safe to put insulation in the corners where the roof meets the wall in attics?fiberglass in corners?
If you have vented soffits, you have to stay away from the corners where the outside wall meets the roof. It is best to install insulation baffles to the roof sheathing to keep the fiberglass from stopping the natural ventilation through the soffit vents into the attic. They can be purchased at home improvement store.
Q:Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?
Lot of info missing to give you a good answer. Thickness of insulation. Slope of roof. But what it really comes down to is the building code in your area, contact local building inspector,
Q:Is mineral wool any good for under roof insulation?
Yes, be sure to leave an air space between the top of the insulation and the roof deck to allow for ventilation, and use a vapor barrier on the interior side of the insulation.

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