Fiberglass Ceiling Acoustic Sound Proof with High Quality

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
4000 m²
Supply Capability:
300000 m²/month

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Description


Thefiberglass acoustic tiles uses fiberglass with high quality as base material. It has high soundabsorption coefficient, good heat preservation & heat insulation performance, good fireproof performance, excellent levelness and unique character on decoration. The acoustic tiles is helpful to improve indoor sound environment, develop the functions of buildings, increase working and lift quality ,and benefit people's health and safety.  The acoustic tiles is a high grade new type ceiling material in the world, which is suitable for interior space with not only moderate or high hospitals, governmental office buildings and business office buildings, super shopping centers, etc.

 

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1.Light weight: with light weight, Huake  acoustic tiles can reduce the load on ceiling of building, therefore, it

 is easy to move and install and reduce the factors that not safety.

 2.Fireproof: Huake acoustic tiles meets grade A incombustibility of national fireproof ceiling material.

 3.Sound reduction : The sound absorption coefficient (NRC) of Huake acoustic tiles is 0.9 to 1.0, therefore,

 sound wave will not reflect on its surface, which can effectively control and adjust indoor reverberation time,

 reduce noise and improve timbre.

 4.Damp-proof: With its excellent damp-proof performance, fiberglass doesn't absorb wet from the air. As a

 result, the levelness of the material will not overall change in wet environment.

 


     

 The tile is made by highdensity fiberglass with compound decoration wool on the surface and fiberglass wool in the back. The edges are painted. With the characteristics of square in edges and angle, it will be parallel to suspension system after installation.

 

Installation method:

-use exposed grids with width of 15mm or 24mm

-tiles are easy to trim and install


Description:

 

1.Superposition joint part between main carrier and vice carrier or vice carrier and carrier is called point lap.

2.It uses lap structure to assembly, connection between joints dovetail very well. The joint face unknits and have a nice appearance.

3.There is a barb at the vice carrier joint, it can avoid loosing and falling from the infection of outside force.

4.Soleplate of main and vice carrier is zincification armor plate, which meets the national GB standard demand. We use baked paint zincifcation armor plate as baked paint panel,whoes capacity of zincification is high. It meet the national GB standard demand.

5. Raw Meterial is galvanized steel with 80-100g/sqm


FAQ

1.Sample: small sample can be offered by free

2.OEM: OEM is accepted

3.MOQ: small order is ok

4.Test: any third party is accepted to test

5.Factory: Can visit factory any time

6.Delivery Time: small order is within 7days or according to your order



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Q:WHAT SIZE FIBERGLASS INSULATION SHOULD I USE IN MY BASEMENT CEILING WITH 2X8 JOISTS?
Why are you insulating the ceiling of a basement,? Unless there is no heat in the basement it is not efficient to insulate the ceiling from a heating stand point. But it's your ceiling. Size 15x 93 batts R factor 19
Q:What would be a good cheap insulation for a basement ceiling or wall?
fiberglass
Q:When installing fiberglass batts in my ceiling, does it matter if the paper side is up or down.?
If it's in direct contact with the ceiling, the paper side should be down, as noted by most of the other posters. But if the insulation is in addition to something that was already there, it should be installed without the paper at all so that the vapor barrier doesn't trap excess moisture in the previously existing insulation.
Q:Recessed lighting on cathedral ceiling - disaster?
I highly recommend you beef up the structure of your ceiling rafters and that will solve multiple issues I see in this project. That will give you plenty of clearance for lighting fixtures and it will also allow for more insulation along with proper ventilation. If it were my ceiling I would sister a minimum of 2 x 10 lumber to the sides of the existing 2 x 6 rafters you now have. Those 2 x 6 rafters are way under size for heavy snow loads and the current space in no way allows for enough insulation. I have done this exact kind of thing in my home when I used excess attic space to build a large multipurpose room. I nailed and used construction adhesive to attach or sister beefy 2 x 10's to the sides of each of my existing roof rafters. Then I could properly insulate the ceiling of the new room along with making the structure much stronger. The extra thickness of the space won't be noticeable at all when the ceiling is put back in but you'll have a much safer and sturdier roof and ceiling. If you're doing this project with a building permit then what I've described above will be required by the building inspector for sure. You will have to meet the building code for the R value of the insulation etc etc. But, even if you're doing this without involving the building dept, it will be in your best interest to beef up the lumber and add the additional insulation anyway. It will be a very small additional cost to pay considering the savings you'll recoup in energy bill not to mention the overall safety factor. Do a search on sistering roof rafters and you can find a good bit of info online if what I've said doesn't make sense to you. If I can give you additional advice or help you find more info online please get in touch. Good luck and I hope this helps!
Q:using plasterboard tape to repair ceiling?
when you say plasterboard if your talking about sheetrock than yes, youll be ok...if its plaster then you best bet would be to put a fresh layer of 1/4 sheetrock over it and have a nice new flat ceiling that wont crack up on you.
Q:The living room ceiling leaked whenever we showered.. The plumber can't find leak. Any suggestions?What gives?
Did the plumber stand in the shower and move around, jump up and down and attempt to distort the floor of the shower? Did he deflect the shower as would occur with someone actually standing in the shower, such that water would splash against the walls, back at the faucets, etc? Did he turn on both the hot and cold water? I would actually have someone use the shower, in particular whomever used the shower before when it leaked - the reason being that maybe something they were doing caused water to be diverted enough that it found a place to escape the shower stall and/or floor pan.
Q:The top floor of the house wall is not sound ye ah? Can hear the voice of the neighbors next door move, distress dead.
It is recommended that you add a fiberglass sound-absorbing ceiling - solid plate This board is often used in some low ceiling of the room, play the role of sound insulation, can replace the plaster board decoration, can block upstairs caused by noise, elegant appearance, Set decoration and function in one, serve two purposes. Using high-density glass fiber board, the surface composite paste made of decorative felt, the back does not handle, four to do the edge of this plate four sides straight, into a right angle, edge bevel. Suggestions can come here to see, I was using the material here, and feel very comfortable now ~
Q:How to insulate basement walls and ceiling with framing already there?
For the walls use fiberglass kraft faced(paper on one side) and no plastic or unfaced insulation with plastic. R-11 or R-13 for 2x4 walls. For the ceiling, I wouldn't bother with it. Instead add a radiator to the basement area and add a new pump and thermostat to create a new zone. Otherwise the basement would only be heated when some other area of the house needs more heat, this usually makes the basement too cold or too hot.
Q:what is the best insulation batts to use in the ceiling?
Fiberglass is the best. You can either go with batts or loose fill, which is blown in. 14 of loose fill gives you R-38, as does 13 of batts. Hope this helps.
Q:How to insulate the basement ceiling?
heat rises, cool air sinks so heat leaking from the upstairs to the basement is unlikely. Drafts are a different story if your house is not tight. Look into an acoustic drop ceiling, if you can create a dead zone of air between basement and upstairs this will insulate.

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