Fiber Cement Board Water Proof Type with Best Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
600 pc
Supply Capability:
20000 pc/month

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Product Description:

Products Introduction:

Our fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.


Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..


Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium   density

High   density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<< span="">D≤1.5

1.5<< span="">D≤2.0

Water   absorption

%

≤30

≤25

Non-combustibility

GB   8624-2006, grade A

wet   expansion

%

≤0.25

Beding   strength

dry

MPA

Strength   grade class III

20

Strength   grade class IV

24

Saturation   with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards


Installation:

(1) Lightweight and high strength: 3-4 kg/m2 (1/10 of half brick wall), with yield strength 400mpa.

(2) Environment-friendly : galvanized steel-no radiation, have no harm to our health and not pollute the environment.

(3) Products with fillisters : Setting some fillisters in both sides of the keels in a selective way, in order to strength the keels' vertical points and intensity.

(4) The metal stud with hole : one of our product is the special hole on C-stud every 600mm, which is easy for workers to install the electric lines and water tubes.

(5) Various sizes of metal track and metal stud : we are able to manufacture German,Japanand Aus-American types etc..We can meet your customized demands.

(6) Factory direct sale price : We have our own factory to produce raw materials----galvanized(zinc coated) steel, as well as the product line, so we can provide you a lowest price.




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Q:How the cement pressure plate sticks on the brick
Pre-shop: First of all, should be based on the design requirements of the drawings, the tiles of color, texture, surface formation and other rigorous selection, and then in accordance with the requirements of the pre-shop drawings. For the pre-shop may appear in the size, color, texture error, etc. to adjust, exchange, until the best results, according to paving smoothly stacked neatly spare. Paving: laying the selection of 1: 3 dry hard cement mortar, mortar thickness of about 25mm. Paving before the tiles on the back of the wet, to be a dry front is appropriate Put the tiles in accordance with the requirements on the cement mortar, with a rubber hammer tapping the floor finishes until the dense formation to meet the requirements.
Q:Pain Due to being on Cement floors or no?
Ya, walking on a hard surface and also standing on it full day will put a lot of stress on the legs and also it causes the muscles to cramp. It can be due to the overuse of the knees or as you say your family members have Arthritis that can also be the reason.
Q:What are some inexpensive and creative ways to decorate a cement block basement?
Craig's List will have inexpensive items (albeit used) for decorating. As for light construction work: The most important issue is waterproofing. Use Super ThoroCoat to seal and color the walls. For the floor, use oops paint from home depot. A 5 gallon bucket of an off color should do the trick, and it is normally marked down from $125 to $15. Yes, that is $110 off the normal price. Our local store ALWAYS has one or two garage or concrete floor 5 gallon buckets in the oops area that someone didn't pick up or didn't particularly like the color of. (Remember the most important rules in painting a concrete floor: Clean the floor first, make sure it is dry, apply paint and WAIT 48 hours before walking on it and three more days before putting furniture down on it.) Then, area rugs are cheap enough on Craig's list as well as Ikea furniture. They are BOTH available in good condition on Craig's list with little time wasted looking and great prices. Your landlord will appreciate your use of ThoroCoat or ThoroSeal on the walls and concrete paint on the floor. You will have done the right thing and have made it moisture resistant and waterproof too. FYI, our townhouse basement is done with these sealants. It worked well at keeping dust sealed in as well as taking away the dampness associated with normal basements.
Q:Cement pressure plate to do the bathroom partition, strength and humidity can meet the requirements?
Not recommended with cement pressure plate, there are hidden dangers. The most solid brick
Q:breaking cement blocks?
condition the edge of the hand on an anvil for at least a year, then start with patio blocks. Blocks must be dry, new, and not painted.
Q:the siding of my 1940 old house is cement, I want to buy new ones to replace some or try to fix them..?
Hardyboard is a composite/concrete siding that may work. If your boards are only slightly damaged you may be able to patch them with concrete patch then repaint. A lot cheaper than replacing.
Q:WHy is it necessary to mud the Joints between Cement board in a tub/shower stall if they are gonna be mortered
You want to make it as water tight as possible, so yes, it is necessary.
Q:How do fighters break ice, cement and wood blocks without breaking their hands, arms, legs and feet?
With conditioning. If you expose your body to pressure over and over again for the next 10 years your body will do one of two things. It will get damaged or it will adapt to deal with the pressure. Put to much pressure on your body and it will get damaged....Maybe destroyed. Put a small amount of pressure on your body and it will adapt to deal with that pressure. Once it has adapted you can increase the pressure and your body will adapt again. Someday it will be able to handle the pressure that would of destroyed it The most important sentence fragment in the world when you want to accomplish something hard and physical is one step at a time
Q:Can I use plaster behind the kitchen {back splash tiles} for wall placement? RE:?
It okorder.com You should be just fine!
Q:SNOW AND CEMENT B BOARD?
I built a tile inlay on my deck for my grills. It's held up through 3 Wisconsin winters so far. I used pressure treated plywood for a base, then installed Durock over the plywood. Use Flexbond thinset for adhering the tiles. My neighbor owns a flooring store, and he set me up with an epoxy grout. You have to work it quickly to avoid a mess, but it's very durable. Hope this helps. EDIT: I would recommend using the plywood to give the Durock additional support. If you can enlarge the opening enough to wrap the Durock around the edge, you should be good. The tile and Durock should provide enough protection to keep the plywood from burning. If that will be an issue, you can screw some pressure treated 2x4's along the length of the metal frame, spaced every 16 or so, and then screw the Durock to that. This will give the top support so it won't deflect under the weight of the tile and snow, and keep the tile from popping. Good luck.

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