• Duplex / Triplex / Quadruplex Service Drop ABC cable System 1
  • Duplex / Triplex / Quadruplex Service Drop ABC cable System 2
  • Duplex / Triplex / Quadruplex Service Drop ABC cable System 3
Duplex / Triplex / Quadruplex Service Drop ABC cable

Duplex / Triplex / Quadruplex Service Drop ABC cable

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Min Order Qty:
1000 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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Duplex / Triplex / Quadruplex service drop ABC cable

 

STANDARD: IEC228 IEC209 IEC60502 , ASTM

Application:the product is new type of aeriel cable for power transmitting, It is extensively used in overhead power transmission line,It improves the safety and reliance of electrified wire netting

Specification: Aluminiumstranded conductor(compacted),AAC messenger core (or ACSR messenger core),XLPE(or HDPE)insulated, Twisted(or parallel) power cable

ABC Cable; Service Drop Cable

 
To be used at voltages of 600V phase-to-phase or less and at conductor temperatures not to exceed 75 for polyethylene insulated conductors or 90 for crossliked polyethylene(XLPE) insulated conductors.

It meets or exceeds the following specifications:
1. Aluminum Wire, 1350-H19 for Electrical Purposes.
2. Aluminum Conductors, Concentric-Lay-Stranded.
3. Aluminum Conductor, Concentric-Lay-Stranded, Coated Steel Reinforced(ACSR)
4. Concentric-Lay-Stranded 6201-T81 Conductors
5. Compressed Round Stranded Aluminum Conductors Using Single Input Wire.
It meets or exceeds all applicable requirements of ANSI/ICEA S-76-474

ABC Aerial cable with ACSR messenger Core

Nominal csetion area(sqmm)

Conductor structure

Insulation material

Insulation Thickness(mm)

Approx. Overall Diameter(mm)

Approx. weight

(kg/km)

Packing meters per drum

Phase

(Compacted AL)

Neutral

(bare ACSR)

(No./mm)

Aluminum

(No./mm)

Steel

(No./mm)

1x16+16

7/1.72

6/1.72

1/1.72

XLPE

1.2

12.5

121.9

250-4000m

1x25+25

7/2.15

6/2.15

1/2.15

1.2

14.9

182.2

250-4000

1x35+35

7/2.54

6/2.54

1/2.54

1.4

17.5

254.7

250-3500m

1x70+70

19/2.15

12/2.15

7/2.15

1.4

23.6

382.2

250-3000m

1x95+95

19/2.54

12/2.54

7/2.54

1.6

27.6

528.2

250-3000m

2x16+16

7/1.72

6/1.72

1/1.72

1.2

14.2

187.6

250-4000m

2x25+25

7/2.15

6/2.15

1/2.15

1.2

16.7

273.8

250-3500m

2x35+35

7/2.54

6/2.54

1/2.54

1.4

19.7

386.9

250-3500m

2x70+70

19/2.15

12/2.15

7/2.15

1.4

26.1

617.2

250-3000m

2x95+95

19/2.54

12/2.54

7/2.54

1.6

30.5

850.9

250-3500m

3x70+70

19/2.15

12/2.15

7/2.15

1.4

29.7

1024.3

250-3000m

3x95+95

19/2.54

12/2.54

7/2.54

1.6

34.6

1413.7

250-3000m

 Picture

 

 

Q:My girlfriend recently damaged (beyond repair) her hp touchsmart tm2 notebook pc Power Cable. I was wondering if laptop power cables are pretty generic, or is there a specific one that i need to order?
I busted my Compaq laptop power cord a few months back and I was able to find another at Walmart to replace it - it set me back $75 which sucked but it was a fairly easy replacement. I imagine you'll find the same to be true with your HP. Good luck.
Q:I just bought a new power supply and it doesn't have the cables for my CD drives, how do I know when I buy a PSU if it will have all the cables I need? How do I know if its compatible with my motherb?
you need to consider 2 things. 1. check the pin-out. the cable should match the connector on your mother board. 2. make sure you have atleast 600~750Watts power on the new power supply.
Q:When I put the laptop into hibernation, the power pack still makes a considerable amount of noise. Since the memory was saved to the hard drive, is it okay to disconnect the power cable? Please note that the battery on the computer is pretty much dead and lasts for about 2 mins tops on normal mode
If it's true hybernation (and not hybrid sleep [?] or suspend) then everything is on the hard drive and the machine is completely powered down. You can safely remove the power cable - and even the laptop battery (if you wanted to, just to prove it works) - and a hour/day/week later pop those back in and when you power back up you should be good to go. EDIT: If it's true hibernation you can leave it like that for years. (Just do a simple test without power cord or battery as mentioned here and see if it works before trusting it.)
Q:The specs say: 350 Watts, DC 12V, 100-240V. It is a Rackable server.Are there special / different power cables to use with servers than desktop PCs?Where can I find the power cable with the above specs. I tried OKorder with not much luck.
You should be able to use a large three prong power cable (with a ground on it) for your server.
Q:i have a 12V battery and a y power cable. will each side get 12V?
yes you will have 12V each side, why?..because of the Kirchhoff's Loop Rule.. delta V = 0 for any path in a circuit that starts and ends at the same point. google the Kirchhoff's Loop Rule for more detail
Q:i cant drill a hole through the firewall because there's too much stuff in the way. so can i run the power cable to the power wire from the radio. the radio power wire is what im talking about. can i do that instead of running it to the battery? thanks
back interior the day whilst audio electronics became into evolving from monophonic sound to stereophonic sound, producers of stereo audio electronics precise the left channel enter for monophonic sound (in case you in elementary terms had one enter) and, if there became into no longer something plugged into the magnificent enter jack, the monophonic sound became into allotted to the two left and precise inputs. on condition that mono is fairly uncommon those days, i don't be conscious of if this continues to be everyday on stereo inputs (which includes powered subwoofers), yet you are able to try it. If it isn't the case (plugging it into the left enter purely is going interior the path of the left amplifier), no count in case you split the sign or no longer is in fact a wash. A subwoofer has 2 voice coils on the motive force, one powered by using the left enter and the different powered by using the magnificent enter. in case you purely have, say, the left enter plugged in, you're in elementary terms using the subwoofer with the left amplifier and voice coil. in case you split it, you're actually using the two voice coils. yet, the split itself cuts the sign point in 0.5. So, you have 0.5 as lots sign enter to each amplifier and the output quantity of the subwoofer heavily is not any distinctive than purely plugging in one enter. one element you are able to desire to do is to get a small, low-value stereo amp or receiver, plug the LFE output into one enter, set the amplifier mode to mono, and run the two line outputs to the subwoofer. that would desire to furnish you 2 complete line point inputs to the subwoofer from the only LFE cable.
Q:Many of the complete amplifier kits, example rated for a 700 watt amplifier come with a 10 gauge power cable. Many of the gauge charts from the online car audio techs, would recommend a 4 gauge wire, but they sell the amp kits with the 10 gauge. I guess bigger is better, more efficient and safer for the installation, but I would expect them to add some * adjacent to the kit specs with their recommendation.
with that kind of amp go with 8 gauge
Q:Whether high voltage cables can be built in belt corridors
The main role is to protect, the secondary role is insulation, there is a role is to decorate.
Q:its like a big power box the has two metal prongs, and is about 2quot;X3big and fits into the same size slot, if you push it in it gets power for a second then doesnt if you jiggle it around it gets power for a second and doenst.anyone know please?
you need a very new cable it is corrupted
Q:I purchased a LCD TV the other day and ran a cable line to it (via crawl space). I had to use a splitter to connect the new TV. I connected the cable directly to the TV and then the power cable to the outlet which “popped” and the power went out (breaker trips). I connect the TV power cable to a surge protector and the power goes out again (surge protector wasn’t even on). So I disconnect the cable from the tv and connect the power. Everything is fine until I try and connect the cable...let’s just say the spark was bright and hot enough to melt part of the connector on the TV! So I return the TV and get a different brand and the same thing happens when I plug it into a surge protector. To begin narrowing out possible problems I connect the cable to a regular 10 year old TV with no problems. It is a brand new cable with no cuts or fraying. Any suggestions?
Something is seriously wrong, and you may need to get an electrician on the problem. You need to check the voltage between your set and the cable with a meter. There should be little or no measurable voltage. If you are getting a reading like 115 volts, then I suspect that the wall outlet into which your TV is plugged has been wired backwards, i.e. the black wire is on the white terminal, and vice-versa. The cable is (or should be) grounded where it comes into the house, but if the outlet has the hot wire on the wrong side, this might cause the problem you described. The wrong connection could have occurred anywhere along the line between your main panel and the outlet, so this may involve checking the connections at several outlets and light fixtures - whatever is on the same circuit as your TV's outlet.

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