DTS607、DSS607 series three-phase electronic ammeter

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Product Description:

Application

DTS607、DSS607 series are used to measure active energy of 3-phase 3-wire and 3-phase 4-wire circuits. It adopts high-accuracy energy measuring chip and has resonable construction. Its excellent features: stable characteristics, high reliability, low power consumption. The meter supply pulse output to be checked by customers.


Type and meaning
Normal operation and installation conditions

1、Specified working temperature range: -25℃~60℃;
2、Limit operation temperature range:-40℃~70℃;
3、Relative humidity less than 85%(under 23℃);
4、 No corrosive medium in the air。


Specifications
Main technical parameters

1、Conform to GB/T 17215 -2002、IEC 61036:2000 standards;
2、Class index:1、2;
3、Power consumption:less than 2W(10VA);
4、Reference frequency:50Hz;
5、No need to calibrate under long time operation;
6、Three-phase power supply. meter can work when one or two phase interrupted.
7、Good temperature characterstics, keep good accuracy from -25℃ to 55℃;
8、The speciality of light loading is good; the ammeter will work with the favorable precision under the utmost low load.
9、The actual precision of measurement on line is high especially aiming at all kinds of the resonance ware.
10、Easy mounting(nothing to do with mounting place);
11、It withstands transport commendably. The error change can't be brought under the condition of all kinds of natural transport. Users don't need to adjust it when opening the packing.


Outline and installation dimensions
Order note

Before order you should fill out the type, specification and quantities. If you have special requirement please negotiate with manufacturer.


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You should have a fuse block in your cabin when you open the drivers door it could be under the dashboard, or there may be a fuse panel behind a cover on the left side of the dashboard where the door and dash meet. in order to check your fuses you should use a light tester, and clip one end to a good ground, and check both ends of every fuse with the pointed end, while the key is in the run position, with the car off. if one end lights the tester but the other doesn't then you found a bad fuse and should replace it.
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Dim or out completely? Most electronic faces that require lighting usually use a few LED's or smaller lights to light up the entire display. There's usually a network of clear plastic tracks running behind the buttons, the light source shows in at one end of this plastic, and the light travels along the plastic and any buttons it pass's by will light up. Sounds like one or more of the LED's burnt out and the ambient light from other LED's are the dim light you see. You could open the faceplate up, take the cover off and place the face onto the deck and power it up and check if all the LED's light up. Replacing the lights would be tricky since you'd need a surgeons hand to desoldier the LED's and then put new ones backwithout buring the circuit board :P Btw, there would be no fuse's present in the faceplate since there's nothing but buttons and the LCD in it. The fuses on the back of your headunit are for the internal amplifier. You'd know if they were blown since the unit wouldn't even come on.
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First I gotta ask this. No offense to you since I don't know you nor do I kow your technical skills. When you are measuring this draw, do you have your meter connected in SERIES with the negative side with it set to Amps setting? Also, are you allowing the vehicle to power down, most cars will hold a certain amperage draw for a few minutes, up to 10-20 minutes which is normal. Are you allowing for this draw not chasing a ghost? FOR INSTANCE, GM vehicle with Onstar, they want you to wait 20 minutes for Onstar to power down or Go To Sleep so to speak. When you track down the source by removing the fuse, you have to actually go find the source fix it. Not leave the fuse out. This is where factory manuals come in handy to have. That way you can see what all that fuse feeds so you can go to that component unplug it directly see if your draw goes away with the fuse back installed.
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Fuses blow silently.  In most cases, the sound is due to a burst capacitor, although sometimes a semiconductor component fails with a noticeable crack. Don't attempt to use the power supply or even plug it in until an electronics technician (NOT a computer tech) looks at it.  Or, drop it in the trash and buy a replacement, since the repair cost may be comparable.
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Get it out of the cabinet you purchased it crammed into and enable it breathe. Did you sparkling out the front intake ports under the front bezel? As you ought to enable air bypass and out of the case. every time you separate heatsink from the GPU you ought to continually replace the thermal compound. Your skill grant is a few distance under spec and could not be the reason for over heating as you assert the fan is kicking up in speed. first of all i'd recommend to returned off the clock speed in case you OC'ed it. try yet another stable heatsink and fan. yet what you're able to locate out is that the wear and tear has already been carried out and you will ought to replace it.
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First is to make sure you have the cable hook up the right direction. Second you may have a short out of your main fuse box. If you capable disconnect all wire to your alternator, tape them off and reconnect you battery if the fuse not blow then replace the alternator, if it still blow then get help from a local mechanic.
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When the big bang cooled to the point where matter could form, the whole universe was pretty much 100% hydrogen (and empty space). Every atom in the universe which isn't hydrogen was generated in the hearts of stars formed by clumps of hydrogen which coalesced into nuclear fusion reactors and generated new heavier atoms.
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you have an elecrical short stop changing fuses and locate short formerly you expend the vehicle or fry the computing device. Which fuse is blowing provides someplace to commence finding. it particularly is greater valuable hint than maximum electric powered problems provide you beginning out.
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fuses are meant stop anything thats powered to be blown, check all your fuses and i'm betting a number 15 is blown.
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Now that you're satisfied with your fuses and connections,check your relays, and wiring between connections for any place where the may get pinched. Also check mounting of all the affected devices for a good, clean, rust free and solid mounting to ensure good grounding of those devices. It sounds like the failure of any one of these components affects them all.

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