Double Flanged Metal Seal Swing Check Valve

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Product Description:


Double flanged Double Eccentric Butterfly Valve
DN100 ~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

                                              EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

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i have the same problem,they found it when i was 40 and that's been 10 yrs 10 yrs it has put me in the hospital 4 times.but feel good most of the time.good luck.
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might so easy and cheap to replace
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The To replace this part yourself takes all of 1 minute, and should be self-evident once you see the part. To erase the code, you only need to disconnect the battery for a few seconds. Hope this helps.
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Darn William B is a small engine tech today..He is usually a building maintence foreman..but I have seen him be alot of things depending on the question..when You broke the first valve and it was replaced, the valve seat itself was damaged from the first broken valve..simply inserting another valve will work for awhile, but now that the valve seat has been damaged..(which does not necessarily mean it will be visible to the eye) the new valves are going up and down and improperly seating...Most shops do not own valve seat grinders now days, and alot of them don't even do it..they simply tell you that you need a new mower..or throw a part in to make it temporarily work long enough to get the money and run..I am 54 and years ago I took a small engine repair course which we were taught to grind the valve seats when there was valve damage..they dont hardly do this now days..they make a tool for it that fits on a drill..all the way to high tech ones that have guages and meters and wont allow you to overgrind them..they need miched out..I am a 37 year experienced painter but I have done other things in my life..Small engines were a small part of them..
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the bicuspid is the same as the mitral valve it seems like anatomy has 12 names for everything In anatomy, the heart valves maintain the unidirectional flow of blood in the heart by opening and closing depending on the difference in pressure on each side. They are mechanically similar to reed valves. There are four valves in the heart (not counting the valve of the coronary sinus, and the valve of the inferior vena cava): The two atrioventricular (AV) valves between the atria and the ventricles, also called tricuspid and bicuspid. The two semilunar (SL) valves, in the arteries leaving the heart, also called pulmonary and aortic. This I know for sure. Drawing pictures always helped me keep it straight and I just got an A in anatomy. best of luck to you
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If you're looking for a valve that attaches to a 1/2 iron pipe coming out of the wall, and then will feed to 1/2 copper tubing, then you're looking for- an angle stop, 1/2 female iron pipe to 1/2 compression. Just about any good hardware store will have it in stock or be able to order it, just be sure that they know what you need. I've often found that using visual aids,like a piece of pipe in one hand, and a piece of tubing in the other, with an empty space, waiting for a valve, between them, can be an invaluable aid to communication. Don't even try to cut and adapt a braided hose. The stainless braid contains a (relatively thin) rubber hose. Without the braid to reinforce it, it will burst. If you need to adapt plumbing, there is always a way to get water from point A to point B. The challenge is finding the most elegant route.
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So long as it is covered you will have no problems. The hood closed, maybe a rag over the hole... I wouldn't give it a second thought.
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Flip your trumpet over and take some valve oil and put it in the small holes on the bottom of each valve casing. If this doesn't make sense to you take it back to the store you bought it from and have them help you with it. DO NOT FORCE THE VALVES OFF THE INSTRUMENT IT WILL DO MAJOR DAMAGE!!!!
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These valves aren't the best by any means, you can see that by looking at it. It's probably broken, always has been. You'll have to fine a third turn off somewhere, or turn the water off to the entire unit while the valve is changed. That's the only way your going to do it.

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