• DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump System 1
  • DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump System 2
  • DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump System 3
DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump

DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
200 set/month

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Advantage of DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump

Easy mantainance
Higher efficiency&saving energy
Low noise
Non-leakage
Stabel runing and longer operation life
Exellent Performance
Simple structure
Low NPSH

General description of DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump
The pump meeting DIN24255,EN733 ;Design pressure up to 1.6MPa; Seal cavities construction is suitable for both mechanical seal and soft packing seal; All the chemical pump parts are stainless steel precision casting and good appearance. To match different liquid application, material can be Cast Iron, Stainless steel and bronze alloyetc.


Technical data of DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump
Diameter of Discharge Flange: DN32 upto  DN250
Capacity:Q:8-1080m3/h
Head:H:5-100m
Max Working Pressure:1.6MPa
Max Operating Temperature: 120 degree
Rotation Direction : from the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW

Solid Grainn: less than 80mg/L 

                                                                                                                 
Model meaning of DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump
DIN 100/40A
DIN End Suction Centrifugal Pump
100 -Discharge diameter (mm)
40 Impeller Diameter divided by
10
A- Impeller Trimmed Code


Applications of DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump
Civil, Chemical industry, Metallurgy, Light industry. Such as : Buildings, water works, irrigation, HVAC ; oil processing, Steel industry, silver-smelting, copper-smelting, iron-smelting, Tin-smelting, aluminium -smelting, zinc-smeltingetc non-ferrous metal smelting. Foodstuff, pharmacy, power plant,drink water, clean water, alcohol, desalination of sea water and water treatment.

FAQ of DIN Single Stage Single Suction End Suction Pump

1. Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2. Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3. Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4. Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

5. Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q:Our water pump had a leak in one of the pipes which kept making us Los the prime. I've replace the piping so it no longer leaking but I can't get I to work. The pump runs but the water doesn't move-. The pressure says it is at 50 but nothing. Also its a sahllow well pump jut bought last sprig.Any ideas? Sorry for the bad grammar new to this tablet.
replace the sump pump or try placing a check valve in the line if the pump it too far away from the water source
Q:We had a thunderstorm followed by power outage last night, this morning I went to use the water and it slowly went dead.I began by inspecting the pressure tank and pressure control switch, then found the outside water pump breaker was tripped, upon resetting the water was back on!But wait, after about 1-2 minutes of use there was a small quot;POPand smoke from the control switch and the breaker tripped again. It seems now that every time the water pump kicks in I've got a 50/50 shot of the circuit breaker blowing. I'm not sure what to do now, I don't want to keep resetting my pump breaker, we really didn't get that much rain so I don't know what would be causing this issue?Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks!
If it works on one circuit but not another, why don't you just leave it where it works ? You didn't say what size the breaker is, or if there's something else on the same circuit. Maybe the pump plus one other item on that circuit are together enough to trip the breaker. Is it possible to give it it's own dedicated breaker at a bigger current, say 15 or 20 amps ? There's nothing wrong with being generous with your breaker size, it's not uncommon for breakers to trip if there's a constant current which is near, but under the rated current. It will still trip the breaker if there's a short.
Q:What is the function of open circulating water pump and shutdown in thermal power plant?
Open pump and closed pump, circulating water pump seems to be the full name of the pump, the industrial pump is to provide industrial water. Both open and closed pumps provide cooling water on the side of the machine, just because the requirements for water quality are different. Closed water is desalted water, while open water is recycled water.
Q:how do i take water pump off took all hoses and bolts i think off dont know whats holdin it on how many bolt hold it on i know the seal can hold it on ther but it wont budge even when i use block of wood and tap with hammer
Raise and suitably support vehicle. Electrical connectors from electric engine coolant fans. Electric engine coolant fans. Engine block coolant drain hole plug and knock sensor. Drain engine coolant. Install engine block coolant drain hole plug and knock sensor. Tighten Coolant drain hole plug to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.) Knock sensor to 19 Nm (14 ft. lbs.) Lower vehicle. Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector. Air intake duct from throttle body and Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor. Upper and lower radiator hoses from water pump. Heater hoses from water pump and throttle body. Electrical connector from coolant sensor. Reposition ignition coil and bracket. Air pump and bracket. Water pump bolts/screws (40) and stud (41). Water pump (37). Water pump gaskets (38). Water pump driveshaft coupling (39), and water pump driveshaft seals (156). Clean Water pump gasket surfaces. Water pump bolts/screws and stud. INSTALLATION Water pump driveshaft coupling (39), and water pump driveshaft seals using Water Pump Driveshaft Assembly O-Ring Seal Installer (156). Water pump gaskets (38). Water pump (37). Water pump bolts/screws (40) and stud (41). Tighten water pump bolts/screws (40) and stud (41) to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.) . Air pump and bracket. Position coil and bracket. Electrical connector to coolant sensor. Heater hoses to water pump and throttle body. Upper and lower radiator hoses to water pump. Air intake duct to throttle body and MAF sensor. IAT sensor electrical connector. Electrical connectors to electric engine coolant fans. Refill cooling system. Inspect for leaks, after running engine to normal operating temperature.
Q:Okay, the fan has the clutch unit on the front with the large nut attaching it to the water pump. Then 4 screws attach the pulley to the water pump as well. What's the best way to immobilize pulley/pump so I can get the fan blade clutch nut unscrewed? Can't hold onto the fan or clutch unit since it simply spins. Can't realy seem to hold onto the pulley either as it prefers to spin? Any suggested best ways?
can usually get 32mm wrench and hit it with hammer in opposite direction Has backwards threads If not get thick rag and real long big screwdriver and carefully pry against pully so it doesnt turn and hit wrench with hammer too loosen Or buy special bmw tools
Q:I think the water pump in my Oceanic BioCube is going up. What is a good brand that would be compatible? It is 29 gallons. Thanks.
If okorder or just your local pet store and see if you can't buy a pump with a similar/same output.
Q:Im changing my water pump and it has a pully that the belt gos on in front of it and the pully has 1 big bolt in the middle of it and like 4 small ones around it and when i try to undo the bolts the pully turns and im not quite the mechanic but i do know that the pully has to come off 1st so how do i take out the bolts without the pully turning???? and yes the belt is off and battery id disconnected and the car is not hot it hasnt ran in days. and it has a 3.4 v6
For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/awNHT Did you hit up both bleeders? Run the car until the thermostat opens. You'll know when because the cooling fan will cycle on. With the car running, and the Rad cap off, start with the bleeder near the thermostat housing (RH side as you're looking at the motor from the front.) Leave it open until you have steady stream of coolant flowing. Close, and move to the bleeder on the left. It's on the metal tubing above the water pump. Same thing, open until coolant flows. Close bleeder, then run the engine up manually at the throttle body. Keep adding coolant to the radiator untill it's topped off with no bubbles coming out. Cap the radiator before letting off the gas. Fill the resevoir, to the full hot line or a little over. Any random small bubble with make their way to the res, being replaced by fluid.
Q:Trying to replace my water pump and was told labor would cost $90 for an 06 impala 3.9L I don't know if it's reasonable for the amount of work.
A water pump. Ninety dollars sound like 1.5 hours of work at $60 to $65 an hour. The car must cool off first. The car must be emptied of coolant . The serpentine belt must be removed. There might be other items that may need to be placed out of the way on this Impala, capitalized, Mr. Swayward, as car names are proper names and must be capitalized. Apparently teachers do no cover this in class any more. There are many bolts that need to be removed. There is a gasket that needs to be removed. There is a water (coolant) pump that needs to be removed. There is a new pump that needs to be installed. There is a gasket and a cover pan to be installed. There is a serpentine belt that must be returned to service by adjusting the tension. There might items that were removed that need to be moved back. There is coolant fluid that must in added to the vehicle. Past a certain point of adding coolant the engine is run to circulate the fluid to burp the system out of air. As the coolant levels goes down, more fluid is added. Repeat as needed. Once assured of no air then the radiator cap is placed and then work can be checked for leaks and for quality of work, A few minutes of monitoring the engine and the temperature are needed. An experienced mechanic could possibly do this faster but the labor rate comes form a book or website used all over the USA as the time an average mechanic would need to complete this job. As to your question. Is it reasonable? Since you know where on the planet you happen to park this car, then you could call another car repair shop and ask as to this job. You can compare prices.
Q:About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise coming from my bathroom that sounded like loud humming every 3 or 4 seconds after I would turn on the water or flush the toilet. I noticed that when this noise happened the water pressure would increase and then it would go back to normal. Then the noise started to get louder. Last night while my husband was taking a shower the water lost pressure and then completely turned off. Now I have no water at all whatsoever except for maybe a few drops when I turn the faucet on. I have a private well and when I bought the house I was told that the well is underneath one of my bedrooms because the house was built on to and they built over the well. I know I can get to the pump from the crawl space. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone know what it might be or maybe even how much it could cost to fix?
Hi. You could have a pressure tank that is in need of replacement or adding air to. The air cushion in the tank has either become compromised or has disappeared completely leaving no air cushion to let the pump build up pressure against. The pump is basically running every time you use even the smallest amount of water and this will basically cause the pump to self destruct. The next thing you may have is a bad pressure switch that is both causing the noise and the pressure variations from the nature of the points being bad. This is not expensive to fix. Under forty bucks. The other fix may run into the several thousands. Sorry. Hope this helps.
Q:I got a water pump replaced a few month back, ( i own a 95 Honda civic) i have a wierd muffled rattle coming from that part of my car, i was told by a mechanic that it sounds like a bearing is dried out, he says that it wont affect the water pump itself but the ratlle will remain ... is this true . . .
A 'dried' bearing is sure to fail. Bearings without lubricant don't last long. I'm having trouble with my new waterpump. Bought it from AutoZone and it's already squeeling after 6 months. My water pump has a tensioner pulley built on to it. That's where my noise is coming from.

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