Description to Flame-retardant and Fire Resistant Wires & Cables

Description to Flame-retardant and Fire Resistant Wires & Cables

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Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 m

Supply Capability:: 100000 m/month

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Flame-retardant and fire resistant wires and cables include product with halogen, without halogen, low smoke etc. These are suitable for the places that have a high requirement for the fireproofing.

Description of the type composition

The name of the flame-retardant and fireproof wire and cable is consisted of the code of the burning characteristic and the code of the specification.

Sample of the description

Sample 1: cable with copper core PE insulation, copper wire braid twisted shielding, PVC sheath category C flame retardant computer cable, 4 pairs, with cross-section of 1.0 mm²with voltage of 300/500Vshall be expressed as ZC-DJYPV 4×2×1.0;

Sample 2: control cable with PVC and insulation and sheath fire resistant, 7 core and with cross-section of 1.0 mm²shall be expressed as N-KVV 450/750V 7×1.0;

Sample 3: power cable with XLPE insulation LOSH category B flame retardant PO sheath with voltage of 0.6/1kV, 3+1 core, with cross-section of the main core of 95 mm²and with cross-section of the earthing core of 50 mm² hall be expressed as WDZB-YJY 0.6/1kV 3×95+1×50;

Sample 4: fire resistant power cable with XLPE insulation LOSH category B flame retardant PO sheath with voltage of 6/10kV, 3 core, with nominal cross-section of 150 mm² hall be expressed as WDZBN-YJY 6/10kV 3×150.

Flame-retardant characteristics

1、Application characteristics: The fire will not spread when the product gets fire. It is suitable for nuclear power plants, underground establishments, tunnels, tall buildings and broadcast & television stations etc.

2、The single flame-retardant performance should comply with the table 2 below.

Table 2: flame-retardant characteristics requirement for the single core cable

code

time of giving fire

qualified requirement

test method

D≤25

25＜D≤50

50＜D≤75

D＞75

120

240

480

the burnt range shall not be out of 50mm to 540mm to the soffit of the upper nip

IEC60332-1

GB/T18380.1

GB/T18380.2

3、The bundle flame-retardant characteristic should comply with regulation of table 3 below.

Table 3: Requirements for the bundle flame-retardant characteristic

code

non-metal material volume of the sample

L/m

time of giving fire

qualified requirements

test method

3.5

1.5

0.5

①carbonized part can not be out of 2.5 m up to the down side of the muzzle

②time of burning with flame in the sample shall not exceed 1 hour after stopping giving fire.

IEC60332-3

GB/T18380.3

Q:My pc don?t start, power cable and all other cables are connected correctly. Any body help me and guide me?: buy a power supply tester there only $6 test the supply.

Q:Hey, my parents just bought me a turntable and I have no idea where one of the cables would go into a normal stereo or what I might need to buy to be able to plug it to a normal modern stereo.: That's the power cable, you'll have to look on the turntable it's self to see what the voltage is. Maybe some were standard 110 volt (220 in Europe), but usually they are lower, something like 24 volts or 48 volts. Those were pretty common in the 1980s when complete component stereos were commonly sold much like 'Home Theater Speakers In A Box' are today. The amplifier plugged into the wall everything else like the cassette deck, radio tuner turntable plugged into the back of the amp using those low voltage cables. There were some advantages to this system. The obvious ones being you only had one 110 volt electric cord you could turn on the stereo with the touch of one button. But it also made the system use less of your home's electrical power. Since the only component that needs a lot of power is the amplifier, you could use lower voltage transformers for the other components. Which I suspect are smaller, run cooler, or both. They might even have less noise interference than 110 volt transformers. (Perhaps someone who knows how electronics circuits work can enlighten us on what the actual advantages are.) I also suspect it saved on the cost of building the stereo systems. If the turntable uses 110 volts, it should be pretty easy to have someone convert the turntable to have a standard power cord on it. If the turnable uses a lower voltage, it probably wouldn't be cost efficient enough to make the conversion unless you knew enough about electronics to do it yourself. And you may want to look for the amplifier or receiver that the turntable is compatible with, on OKorder or Craig's List.

Q:Copper core power cable laying (cable section YJV4 * 35 + 1 * 16mm2) Will the dawn of the software in how the amount of superposition? The Please master instructions, the problem added: YJV4 * 35 + 1 * 16mm2 is not the 4 * 35 + 1 * 16 = 156mm2 copper core power cable laying (cable section 156mm2) to count, more: That is to tell you the code, then you will not do now you have to do the password

Q:I'm new to PCs and I recently bought a Dell Optiplex 745 desktop PC but it came without cables. I thought I had the correct power cord but it turns out I gave it away to friends. I have the power cable that you plug into the wall which has the standard PC kettle plug (the correct one for PCs not an actual kettle plug) that you'd usually plug into an adapter then into your PC but I'm not sure if you can just plug it in without the correct adapter. I have Googled but cant make head nor tail of it all. And by adapter I mean the cable with the little box that you usually plug into a device such as a PC, laptop or Xbox 360 before you connect the cable to the mains.Thanks.: It all comes down to the amount of output that the pc is set to take. I would think that you would be fine without the adapter, assuming it already works. If you do decide to do this make sure you set up a surge protector, dont just plug it into the wall. A power surge could fry the internals and brick the pc.

Q:I wanted to buy this card: What power cables will it need? Thanks in advance: You don't need any power cables. The board gets power from the mother board. You need a PCI-Express slot on your mother board. If you're asking about video cables to the monitor, it says in the listing... Interfaces 2 x DVI-I - 29 pin combined DVI , 1 x HDMI - 19 pin HDMI Type A , 2 x DisplayPort - Apple mini-DisplayPort You only need one of these unless you are running more than 1 monitor. I would look on your monitor and see what connections you have. (2) DVI-1 is common is older stuff, (1) HDMI is the newest technology and common for HDTV, (2) Apple ports for Apple enabled monitors.

Q:I had bought a new stereo for my Dodge Neon, had installed it, and everything worked great for a couple days. Later my stereo was no longer getting power, I took it out to try to find out the problem. The power cable from the battery to the stereo is no longer intact. The little metal pin in the middle(no, I don't know exactly what it's called) broke off! I have no idea how, or even where it is, all I know is that it's gone and I don't know what to do! Is this a replaceable car part? If so, where do I find a new part, or where would I take my car to get the best help and possible answers? Would it be better to take it to a mechanic or to a stereo installation shop?: the cables are not a life and run away from the dash , that never happends, and if the cable is there its not broken the power comes from the ignition switch not the battery , so you have a bad fuse or bad ignition switch most likely it is only a fuse, did you know there are 2 boxes ? check both

Q:Power cable inspection, how many meters should be sampled?: installation quota: cable ZR-YJV-4 * 70 + 1 * 35 is a five-core cable, you can refer to sets of "copper power cable laying cable (section mm2 below) 120? Cable "quota, and the fixed sub-sub-multiplied by the coefficient 1

Q:I have an old scanner, HP Scanjet 3400C, but I have lost the power supply cable. The power socket the cable fits into looks like a small single hole with a little pin in the middle.Can I replace it and what is it called?Thank you very much.: The power cable and adapter will probably be unique to the scanner. You'll have to order the right one from HP, or through a computer store. The USB cable should be standard. Most printers and scanners use a USB cable with a Type A connector (flat) on one end, and a Type B connector (squared-off) on the other end. They're easy to find at Staples, as well as at computer stores.

Q:Hi there - I had a Mr Bean moment when hooking up my DVR and camera during a house renovation project. Basically, I put the cables the wrong way around so that the ends that go in to the DVR are with the camera and the ends that are meant to be connected to the camera are with the DVR.: Not, it is not.

Q:This is the second time the power cable has burned up. The cable itself frayed from overheating I suspect.: It would have to be a combination of things that made it fray. Like, for example, being bent at an extreme angle while in use for long periods of time. Power cables get hot from normal use. The plastic insulation gets soft. If the power cable is laid in a comfortable position, if it is allowed to cool before being wrapped up, and there are no problems with the power adapter port on the laptop, a power adapter cable will last for the life of the laptop. Now, if you are using a Universal power brick, that is part of your problem. This laptop only requires a 65 watt adapter. Universal power adapters will push more juice to your laptop... up to 90 watts. This will cause the cables to get hotter. So, if you have not replaced it with a 19 volt 3.42amp brick specifically designed to work with your laptop... then you should do so. And feel free to buy one off OKorder. Same brick as what you get from Toshiba, for a fraction of the cost. end of line

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