• Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps System 1
  • Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps System 2
  • Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps System 3
Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
200 unit/month

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1. Applications of Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
1> For water supply from wells or reservoirs.
2> For domestic use,for civil and industrial applications.
3> For garden use and irrigation. 

2. Operating conditions of Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
1> Maximum fluid temperature up to +35°C.
2> Maximum sand content: 0.3%.
3> Maximum immersion: 100m.    
4> Minimum well diameter: 4".    

3. Specification of Motor for Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
Three-phase:380-415V/50HZ    
Single-phase:220-240V/50HZ     
Equip with special start-up control box.
Internal diameter of outlet
 1.25".1.5".2"
Special features available:
1> Other voltages are acceptable.
2> Frequency 60Hz.
3> Other mechanical seal.
4> Equip with Auto-control box.

4. Description of Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:

Warranty: 1 years.
(according to our general sales conditions)  

Components:                                                         Material:

Pump external casing                                          AISI 304 ss

Delivery casing                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Suction lantern                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Diffuser                                                                Plastic.PC

Impeller                                                                Plastic.POM

Motor external casing                                            AISI 304ss

Top cover                                                         1.Cast-Cu ASTM280. 2.Cast iron G20 UNI5007

Bottom support                                                     AISI 304 ss

Mechanical seal                                                    Special seal for deep well(carbon-SIC/TC)

Bearing                                                                 NSK(Japan)

 

5. FAQ

1>.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2>.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3>.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

4> Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

5> Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

6> How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.


Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps



Q:My '95 Ford Ranger has had the sound of a bearing going bad in a pulley for about two months. Finally this weekend I started it up and it must have locked up, the belt was squealing really loud and snapped. So, now the water pump pulley has rubber chunks on it, which would make me think that is the bad pulley. But the pulley spins perfectly, really smooth. The alternator pulley on the other hand does not spin perfectly. It is not really hard to spin, but it does not spin smoothly. And the alternator pulley is real clean, no rubber on it at all. Any thoughts? I was thinking of buying a cheap belt and putting it on there, have someone start the truck and watch under the hood to see which is bad.
Well from your description I would say it's the water pump, as that is where the residue is but if all the pullies are spinning by hand I would suggest gtting a throwaway belt and looking for yourself. Also if you had any overheating problems before than I would lean to the water pump, or if you had any dead batteries or charging problems I would lean to the alternator then. What about the A/C compressor that could also be the problem, so could a tensioner as well. So I stick with my original statement and try to get a cheap belt and look for yourself, just make sure you wear protective glasses so if it does snap you dont lose your eyes actually just be careful when you do it OK!!! Good Luck, Tony
Q:My car is Grand Marquis. I want to remove the water pump. After removing all the bolts on the water pump, it is still there. I tried to hammer it in order to loose it, but it is still there. I use long tool to lever it off, but it is still there. I even break the corners of the water pump, but it is still there. PB Blaster is used, but useless. I am helpless. Can you help me?
It would help to post the year, engine size.
Q:We had to have our well pump replaced yesterday, how long before the well settles down, and the water tastes like it used to?The company who replaced the pump told us when changing a pump it disturbs the well, and it would take time for everything to settle back into place. Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions.
I had my pump changed and the water remained the same. It looks like you didn't really need a new pump, but a new screen on the well itself. Ask a well company what they think. I thought it was my pump, too, until I found out they had to change the points in my well to the tune of $1,000. Changing the pump should have never changed the well....sounds like you hired a plumber.... Good Luck!
Q:I just replaced my submersable well water pump, the wire that connects the pump, the d switch, and the water tank. Everything was installed correctly and with the help of a licensed plumber. While the D switch is closed (providing power to the pump) the pump will run for about 5 seconds then shut off for about one minute. It will continue this process until the system attains proper pressure and the D switch will open, shutting off power to the pump. The pump is brand new. Why, when power is being supplied does the pump cut on and off? We have tested the current at the well head and it shows that 230 is being supplied the whole time that the D switch is closed, which is correct.
I had one doing this similarly. The well was out of water or the pump may be too high in your case. The pump has a thermal cut out that is cutting out because it is protecting itself from over heating. once it cools a bit the thermal resets and it will pump again for a short time till it gets hot again. Perhaps this is your problem it was mine. I had to drill a new well. I assume you know there are 120 volt pumps out there be sure what the old one was. 220 probably would have cooked it by now anyway. Take the cap off and listen for the pump sound if it is out of the water you will be able to hear it if not to deep.
Q:I am leaking antifreeze, but only when the car is sitting after it has been running for a while, and its quite frustrating..it's coming around where the hoses are, I just got the thermostat/thermostat housing replaced, and also the heater hose and it seems to be coming from the same general area AS those...My car doesn't leak all the time it seems, so I'm not sure what this could mean. It has not over heated, my ac isn't also working at all.I have taken it back to the mechanic two times in the last 2 days and they cannot determine it's having a leak or not..which is quite ridiculous!! It seems to them that they think I'm crazy or something, I just don't like to see antifreeze underneath my car, I mean who does? Does this sound like a water pump? Where exactly is the waterpump located?
i would say its where you had ur stuff replaced before. They might not have the clamp on hosestight enough. Or the housing isnt tightened enough and or they overfilled especially with them not tightening it all up. Seen it happen alot. And it happens because they dont recheck for any leaks after the work is dne and make sure everything is all nice and tidey before they give it back to customer. If it was ur pump u would overheat and not have enough pressure to leak in any hoses or housings but only ur pump weep holes is where it would leak...
Q:How much solar energy would you need to generate and run a small water pump? Say one that is big enough to extract water from a bucket that is 1 ft wide x 2 ft deep? What size solar panel would you need to accomplish this?
The key is, as 96sentra says, where does the water have to go. We would need to know how high above bucket (minimum) water level will the other end of the hose be, and how fast (Liter or gallon per minute) shall the water flow. This determines the pump type, which in turn determines the solar panel size.
Q:95 mustang leaking water pump changed the pump and its running backward now
Check the belt diagram and make sure that the belt is on correctly; if it is on backwards fix it. If you have white smoke coming out of the exhaust that is water vapor which means that the engine has gotten too hot and you have a cracked head or a blown head gasket.
Q:Does it take more power to pump water with a 1 /12 hp bg motor/pump than one that is a spare pump/motor running dry,not connected to the system? I am trying to figure out how long it will run with an power inverter during a power failure.
Hi there, Your 1/12 HP motor will draw 0.52 amps at 110 volts from the inverter. It would draw about 5 or 6 amps from the 12 volt battery to produce the 0.52 amps from the inverter. You need to know the amp-hour rating on your battery then divide that number by 5-6 to get an approximate time the pump would operate on backup. Yes a pump that is pumping water will draw considerable more power than a pump that is pumping 'dry'. The best way to check is to just try your setup and see how long it lasts (before it's needed) since there are inefficiencies in the inverter, voltage drop in the wiring and perhaps the backup battery is not new. Manufacturers always are optimistic with their ratings Short answer: try it out before you really need it then you will know for sure. Hope this helps, Al
Q:I have a 1998 pontiac grand prix yesterday I started leaking anti-freeze so we ( me, dad, bf) checked and came up w/ h2o pump, all the classic signs. so $51 latter started her up and wouldnt you know the same thing. anyone have any tips????
I would go with what the Dodge guy said, dont just take anybodys word for this. good luck
Q:I have an 02 Gran Prix and my water pump is going out. With the recession I don't have the money to take it in. So can anyone give step by step instructions to help me fix it. I am a do it yourself kinda of guy so I am mechanically inclined. What tools will I'll need? is there a timing chain? How long will you think it will take me? Any thing i should pay attention to? How can I measure the pounds of torque that I put on the bolts or what tool will I'll need? Please help!!!
WP replacement mini-writeup 1. Empy Coolant from Radiator drain 2. Remove SC and Acc. belts 3. Remove the coolant resevoir tank 3. Remove the Idler pulley with a 15mm 4. Remove the 4 WP pulley bolts with a 8mm 5. Remove the 2 Power Steering Pump bolts with a 13mm(bolts are at 12:00 and 6:00 accessable through the PS pulley holes) 6. Push PS pump 1 inch to the side 7. Remove all 8 WP bolts with a 13mm and a 10mm(3 are 13mm/5 are 10mm) 8. Collect extra coolant until flow stops(a few cups) 9. Apply RTV to both sides of the gasket and WP bolts 10. WP bolts should be torqued to 11lbs+80*/Idler pulley bolt at 36lbs/WP pulley bolts at ~9lbs 11. Reinstall everything and fill the coolant back up 12.

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