• Deep Well Pump With Explosion Proof Motor System 1
Deep Well Pump With Explosion Proof Motor

Deep Well Pump With Explosion Proof Motor

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 unit/month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number:200QJ25-182

  • Theory:Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure:Multistage Pump

  • Usage:Water

  • Power:Electric

  • Standard or Nonstandard:Standard

  • Fuel:Electric

  • Pressure:High Pressure

  • Application:Submersible

  • Material:Cast Iron / Stainless Steel

  • Color:Blue

  • Flow:25m3/h

  • Head Range:150-210m

  • Power:22kW

  • Motor Rated Current:48.2A

  • OEM,Design Service:Accept

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:wooden box packing
Delivery Detail:5-7days after payment confirmation or as customers' requirements

Specifications

deep well pump with explosion proof motor
Flow:10~500 m3/h
Lift:10~600m,no leakage
100% copper motor
meet ISO9001:2008

deep well pump with explosion proof motor

1. Operation parameters

Flow range

10~500 m3/h

Lift range

10~600m

Applicable well Borehole diameter

φ175~φ400mm

Diameter scope

φ32~φ203mm

Temperature range

-15~80 centidegree

2.Product overview

QJ submersible pumps are widely used in

agriculture irrigation, sprinkler irrigation well water lifting

water supply, drain system of industrial and civil building

the hill, mountain areas' water diversion

drainage of low-lying areas

water supply, drainage of industrial and mining enterprises in urban and rural area

all the other water facilities

3. Model significance

300 QJ 200-40

300-----------Base No.

QJ------------Type characteristic, Submersible

200-----------Flow (m3/h)

40------------Head (m)

3. Technical parameters

Several type parameters, other type, please contact with manufacturer.

Model

Flow range

Head range

Rotation speed

Pump efficiency

Rated power of motor

Maximum outer diameter of unit

Weight

(m3/h)

(m)

(r/min)

(%)

(kw)

(mm)

(kg)

175QJ10-40/3

9-11

42-

38

2850

53

2.2

48

175QJ15-65/5

13-17

68-

62

2850

58

5.5

168

73

200QJ15-26/2

13-17

28-

24

2850

62

2.2

184

48

200QJ20-30/2

18-22

31-

29

2850

66

3

184

59

250QJ140-105/7

130-150

91-120

2875

76

63

233

430

300QJ300-160

279-321

167-153

2900

76

220

620

4.  QJ using condition

(1). 380V voltage deviation is no more than ±5%, frequency is 50HZ, three -phase power deviation is no more than ±1%.

(2). Motor cavity must be filled with water.

(3). The first stage impeller of the pump should be more than 2mm below the moving water surface, pump unit should be less than 70m below the static water level.

(4). The distance from the motor bottom to well bottom must be more than 3m.

(5). Water temperature should be no more than 20 centidegree.

(6). Sand content of the water ( by mass) should be no more than 0.01%.

(7). PH value of water 6.5~8.5.

(8). Hydrogen sulfide content of the water should be no more than 1.5mg/L.            

(9). Chloride ion content of the water should be no more than 400mg/L.

(10). Water yield of water source should ensure the requirements of pump continuous working.

 

5.  Characteristics

 (1).  Motors and pumps assembled into one.

 (2).  Simple structure.

 (3).  Easy installation and removal, small area.

 (4).  Simple using and maintenance.

 (5).  Safe and reliable operation, no pollution to water, etc.

Q:If a submersible pump to shake the insulation, water pump distance more than 20 meters away from the cable distribution box is fixed, at this time to shake the insulation in the distance distribution box can only shake, disconnect the power cable is connected with the shake table, the ground end is connected with the distribution box in such a shake, I want to ask is, what is this shake is not the pump shell must be reliable grounding to shake ah? Now the pump casing is not grounded, just immersed in water, immersed in the water, is not equal to good grounding ah?
A submersible pump to shake the insulation, water pump distance more than 20 meters away from the cable distribution box is fixed, at this time to shake the insulation in the distance distribution box can only shake, disconnect the power cable is connected with the shake table, the ground end is connected with the electric box so that the pump shell shake shake, also must be reliable grounding to shake to now, the pump shell grounding not only in the water, it must be a wire connected with a shell or a wire will be immersed in water, this is right insulating shake,
Q:1978 Ranchero 500. Pumps leaking like crazy. I have a belt to remove, which i assume is the serpentine belt? Its tight as can be on the pulleys. I have no clue how to remove this and any other advice on this do-it-yourself project would be much appreciated. Thanks
Replacing a water pump when you don't even know if you're talking about the serpentine belt or not, is not a DIY job.
Q:A water pump that consume 2kW of electric power when operating is claimedto take in water from a lake and pump it to a pool whose free surface is 30 m above the free surface of the lake at a rate of 50 L/s. Determine if this claim is reasonable.You have to show the minimum power required is 14.7 kWand i can't get it.
A liter of water mas a mass of 1Kg. How much work must be done to raise 50 Kg of water through a height of 30 m? You can say: Work done (W) = potential energy gained (mgh), Or you can say that Work done is the weight force (mg) * the distance moved against the force (h) Either way, W = m * g * h where m is the mass; g is the acceleration due to gravity {9.8 m/s?}; h is the height W = 50 * 9.8 * 30 = 14700 J If you need to do that amount of work in one second, that's a rate of working of 14700 J/s A joule/second is a watt. Minimum power required = 14700 W = 14.7 kW
Q:i want to hook a pressure booster pump to a well pump so i can have some pressure out of the well, is this doable?thanks!
That's an interesting question and it raises quite a few complicated hydro-engineering questions. If you used two pumps with the same output pressure, sequenced to switch on together, I do not believe you would increase the final output pressure over using just one pump. I'd think you'd need to have the first pump run to a pressure tank with a check valve and then use a booster pump to raise the pressure from that tank to the house meaning you'd need another pressure tank and check valve in the house. Have you looked at the air bladder diaphragm tanks that allow you to set the pressure by regulating the air pressure behind the bladder? This might be a better option than 2 pumps. Look at a company called Well-X-Trol.
Q:can i drive my car ,with a blown water pump, 5 miles to a service center?
its possible. i dont reccomend it, but if you do, get a couple or few gallons of just water, depending on how big your radiator is, and keep an eye on your temp gauge, if it starts going up, shut off your car, wait 5 to 10 minutes, carefully open the cap on your radiator, and put water in it untill it fills back up. i had a busted water pump i drove 20 miles on everyday for about 3 days untill i had time to fix it, it wasnt a bad leak though, and that still sucked, i would honestly just pay the small amount for a tow truck for the 5 miles.
Q:Pump performance parameters have three sets of data, how to understand the flow, lift, flow speed
Mainly expressed the ability of the pump, mainly as a basis for selecting the pump users.Lift represents the performance of the pump to boost water pressure. Such as the pump head H=38 meters, that the pump outlet pressure normal to 0.38MPa.The flow rate represents the water supply capacity of the pump. Such as 100 m3/h. The general flow pump design, and the corresponding flow, little significance.
Q:Leaks right under the water pumpOf my truck ford f-150
The leaking water is telling you that the pump impellor is worn and you need a new pump. Sealed Unit, cant be repaired.
Q:My water pump in my pontiac bonneville 99 went bad, and while I was in the navy, in aviation fuels, some of my job consisted of repairing pumps and valves, and rebiulding them all together, and this water pump from my car seems to have some of the same features of previos pumps i've worked on, usualy when i use to repair pumps, most of the time i just replaced the bearings, just wondering if its do-able, im looking for the cheapist way to fix this, the casing for the pump seems to be in very good condition, but havent got it out of my car yet, im short on tools right now for the moment... thanks in advance for any help...
Don't bother. Water pumps fail on this motor all the time and replacements are plentiful and cheaper than dirt. I won't even use rebuilt water pumps in my shop - we only install new ones because they are much more reliable and the cost difference is literally only a couple of bucks.
Q:Could it make coolant quot;Boilquot;? Ive heard myc ar's behavior is Normal, and most likely just heavy condenstaion as it DOES go away, also the behavior of the coolant and the tank.. but i DO know the Water Pump is quot;Weeping,or quot;Seeping,so i wonder what interaction that would have ont he Cooling side of the motor; what effects can it produce? What would i notice?My 1991 Calais 2.5L quot;Iron Duke,
White smoke is an indication of coolant getting into the engine. It could be a cracked head or blown head gasket. Black smoke can be worn rings or worn valves. A bad water pump could leak or make noises, the temperature is high or coolant bubbling out of the radiator.
Q:I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?
doesnt sound like water pump you may have lost a heater core thats what it sounds like to me its getting vacuum and temp is jumping but you dont have heat sounds like it to me check that next but as with the other selection check if your thermostat is in wrong

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