• DCI Gate Valve for Drinking Water System System 1
  • DCI Gate Valve for Drinking Water System System 2
DCI Gate Valve for Drinking Water System

DCI Gate Valve for Drinking Water System

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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1. Structure of Gate Valve Description

1. Selected materials, in line with domestic and international standards, high overall quality of the material.
2. In line with the requirements of domestic and foreign advanced standards, reliable sealing, excellent performance, attractive appearance.
3. Sealing pair advanced and reasonable, gate and seat sealing surface with different hardness Stellite (Stellite) cobalt-based alloy cladding made, reliable sealing, high hardness, wear resistance, high temperature, corrosion good anti-abrasion performance, long life.
4. Stem quenched and nitride surface treatment, has good corrosion resistance, scratch resistance and abrasion resistance.
5. The use of flexible wedge gate structure, medium and large caliber set thrust bearings, friction force is small, and with a striking manually open and close with ease.

2. Main Features of the Gate Valve:
1)Full port design
2)OS&Y Outside screw and yoke .
3)BB. Bolted Bonnet .
4)Flexible wedge, Fully guided
5)Choice of solid or split wedge .
6)Renewable seat rings
7)Forged T-head stem
8)Rising stem and non-rising handwheel
Working medium: water, non-corrosive liquid, saturated vapor (≤ 0.6MPa)
Operating temperature: -20 °C ≤ t ≤ 135 °C
Stem: non-rising stem
Body material:Brass/Stainless Steel
Connection:flanged

3. Images of the Gate Valve:

4. Specification of the Gate Valve: 

1) Product information: the gate valves supplied are mainly used for adjusting water, steam, oil, gas, and natural gas in chemical industries

2) Standards: AWWA, DIN3352 F4/F5, BS5163, BS5150

3) Connection type: flanged type, push-on type, mechanical joint type, plain ends type

4) Material:

  a) Body : Ductile Iron GGG500-7

  b) Wedge : D/I , core fully vulcanized with NBR or EPDM rubber

  c) Wedge Nut : Brass

  d) Stem : Stainless steel , BS970 431S29 or DIN17440x20Cr13

  e) Gasket : NBR

  f) Bonnet : GGG500-7

  g) O ring : NBR

  h) Washer : Carbon steel or Stainless steel .

5.Connection Ends:

  1)Socket Welded Dimension:ANSI B16.11,JB/T1751

  2)Screw Ends Dimension:ANSI B1.20,JB/T7306

  3)Butt Welded:ANSI B16.25

  4)Flanged Ends:ANSI B16.5,JB79

5.FAQ

1. Can I get free samples?

A: Yes,we can provide you the free sample, but you need to bear their own delivery costs.

2. Can I request to change the form of packaging and transportation?

A:Yes, We can change the form of the packaging and transportation according to your request, but you have to bear their own costs incurred during this period and the spreads.

3. Can I request to advance the shipment?

A: It should be depends on whether there is sufficient inventory in our warehouse.

4. Can I have my own Logo on the product?

A: Yes, you can send us your drawing and we can make your logo, but you have to bear

their own the cost.

5. Can you produce the products according to my own drawings?

A:Yes,we can produce the products according to your drawings that will be most satisfy you.

Q:It's filling up a 5 gallon bucket roughly ever 9-10 hours. It was leaking with an old valve and has been replaced, and after being replaced it didn't stop. The temperature has not been adjusted higher or lower, it's exactly where it was for the year before the leak started. Any ideas?
Instructions : 1 Shut off the power to water heater. If electric, turn gas to pilot setting, if a gas water heater. Cut off water supply to water heater as well. 2 Drain the water from tank to just below relief valve. It is not necessary to drain the entire tank. Open a hot water faucet, drain tank from tank drain for approximately three to five minutes. 3 Prepare the new relief valve with Teflon tape. Remove the dip tube and any other connections to the relief valve. Check faucet to make sure water is not running. A slow drip is OK. 4Unscrew the relief valve counter-clockwise with a wrench to remove. Install the new relief valve. Install the dip tube with a compression fitting, if you had to cut it to remove earlier. Make all other connections. 5. Turn the water supply back on to water heater. Make sure water is running from the open faucet before turning the power back on.
Q:Hi all, I found oil leakage in my distributor and am about to change the o rings. however, i feel that a blocked PCV valve is causing the pressure to push oil into the distributor. I have been searching for the PCV valve. Can someone please tell me where it is?
The PCV valve is located beneath the intake manifold on the right (passenger) side. It threads into the breather seperator and points toward the center of the car. To remove it, you'll have to remove the Idle Air Control valve located on the end of the manifold log. Be aware that you'll have to do at least part of this task underneath the car, and that the IAC valve has antifreeze circulating through it Get a mechanic to do it if you can afford it
Q:One of the zone control valves in my heating system does not appear to be working. The thermostat is calling for heat, but no water is flowing. If the other thermostats call for heat, the valves seem to open as the pipes above the valve get hot from the water flowing through. The one that appears busted gets luke warm at best. All 4 valves in the system are fed from the same pipe, and the failed valve is the third in the series of 4 along the pipe (and #4 flows fine) so it doesn't appear to be something in the feeder pipe.Is there anything I can do to try and fix the existing valve, can I replace the valve myself? Would replacing the valve top of the valve (the green/gold portion) possible fix the issue (maybe a problem with the operation of the piston? Is there anything I ahve to do before removing the valve top aside from removing power to the valve?
You would need to isolate the valve from the line, and depressurize the system, and I would think that turning off the heater and letting the temperature fall would probably be necessary if you don't want a relief to lift in the boiler. If you make a mistake here you have a very good chance of being scalded to death, or permanently scarred. Also, you may need to sweat and braise the new valve with a torch, so you had better be sure you know what you are doing and don't burn your house down.
Q:hello my names matt and i have a 1997 eclipse 2.0 non turbo with 94k miles and the semi circul seal on my valve cover gasket has a small leak that i see oil dripping and i dont think the pcv valve has ever bin replaced could any of those cause my exhaust to burn oil maby a bad fuel injector? theres no oil in the top of the engine on the spark plugs when i check them all, the piston rings and the headgasket r not worn or cracked so idk what it could be some one please help
the valve stem seals are common leak on these I work with a lot of mitsubishi's
Q:I was looking at the specs on my audi a4 and it said 30 valves and I was looking at a few other cars and they said 24 valves. What do the valves determine? Whats the difference if the car has more valves than another?
Audi now uses 5 valves per cylinder. Why? They obviously believe it offers advantages over conventional 12 or 24 valve systems (for 6 cylinders) but it's not clear what benefits it has to Audi buyers. Is is just more complex and more likely to have problems? Who knows?
Q:I think the piece leaking is a valve;it is one solid piece of copper with two tubes, one which is a half inch that connectsinto the incoming hot water and then a small outgoing one that connects to the faucet and I don't know how to find a replacement part .. I think it is a Delta but I am not sure ... the house is 10 years old but where can I just find a valve instead of replacing the entire faucet if I don't know what the make or model is ?Any websites with pics of replacement valves for Roman Tubs??
Remove the valve and take it to a plumbing supply store. Home Depot and the like may have what you're looking for; but you're more likely to find it at a plumber's supply. They are the only ones I've ever found who carry odd bits.
Q:For instance, I am buying some new tires that don't have the valve stems on them, so could I remove my existing valve stems from my used tires onto the new tires? Is this recommend at all? Is it safe? Is it possible? Can this be done? why or why not? thank you.
Impossible. Tires don't have valve stems. Wheels do. For gosh sakes man, if your Mom ever taught you anything never re-use something that will eventually bite you in the butt. Old whipped out valve stems have tiny cracks which lead to leaks. It would cost you five times more than a simple valve stem if you had to break a tire down, replace a leaky valve stem, remount the tire, re-balance it and stick it back on the car. What is your economy $ thinking? Tell you what, if you ever see a tool for removing valve stems for re-use I'll eat it! Go hole hog and spend a big dollar or two and get past your idea.
Q:What are Atrial valves??
there isn't a sinoatrial valve in the human heart. There are 2 AV (atrioventricular) valves, and 2 semilunar valves, which are the aortic valve, and pulmonary valve. The AV valve seperate the atrium (on top) and ventricle (on bottom). Blood flows down from the atrium, to the ventricle, and then the AV valve closes to keep blood from going back into the atrium. While the valve is closed, the ventricle contracts, which send blood up through, the aorta ( left side) or the pulmonary trunk(right side). The semilunar valves seperate the ventricles from the aorta and the pulmonary trunk.
Q:We had a sprinkler zone that did not send much water to sprinkler heads. Checked the spring on the solenoid. We took off the top of the valve and rinsed gasket and parts below – put back together. The zone then worked. However I then noticed that the valve that does not shut off completely – water meter shows usage. I turn off water as it comes from the house.We then replaced the solenoid, the zone would not turn on. When back to the old solenoid. I switched wires at the timer and valve, it started, but when the cycle was through there still was water going through the system. Put wires back to their original locations.Space is crowded and looks tricky to replace valve. Would like advice on that for next year. However my main concern is when we shut down for the winter. We manually run each of the 8 stations and blow out the water. Will the bad valve cause a problem?
You didn't mention who manufactured the valve. Sounds like you have a small stone caught between the valve body and the diaphragm. Diaphragms don't open that much and a large enough piece of debris can get caught. Also some valves are manufactured with a small tick screen that is inserted into the diaphragm itself. If it comes out then there will be a small hole in the diaphragm, causing leakage. Take the entire top off of the valve body and inspect the diaphragm. Be careful of the spring in the top. If it was a stone, you will see an indentation in the diaphragm. Feel around the seating edge to see if it is damaged. If all is OK, just put it back together, if not, take the diaphragm to a sprinkler place and get a new one.
Q:I have replaced the rubber washer in the valve and when I pull up on the float arm everything seems to stop then shortly thereafter air bubbles start coming out of the bottom of the fill tube. How could air be getting thru the valve without water which would cause the shutoff valve to tighten?
Maybe the Flapper in the bottom is not seating itself all the way down. Also you can adjust the ball. If that does not work, GENTLY place a CLEAN Brick in the toilet bowl. Be sure not to drop the brick as it will crack the tank. Good luck.

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