Q:I looked on my side panel.and it says a.b.s but right under it.there‘s a capital N.does that mean that my car has abs? or does that mean no it doesnt have abs? does cars with abs even have abs on the side panel? btw my car is a 1998 Mazda Protege LXi did a little researched and it says that its optional for my carso i just wanna make sure whether i have it or noti cant really tell when i slam on the brakes because i‘m so use to it by now

it particularly is going to in basic terms waste gasoline in case you vehicle continuously giving it intense gasoline on the grounds which you like the sound. no longer all people is inspired with the help of a Honda with a pipe. generally in the event that they have headers swifter carbon fiber hood roll cage and an v6 with a 5 velocity They get greater looks than a 4door with a pipe ever will

Q:How do you ABS Brakes work and how are they different from traditional brakes?

Pressing on the brake pedal of a vehicle equipped causes the brake pads or shoes to press on the brake disks or drums, which slows or stops the forward motion of the vehicle. Applying the brakes hard enough on a vehicle equipped only with traditional brakes (more commonly referred to as either regular or foundation brakes), will cause the wheels to stop spinning completely without stopping the vehicle. Instead, when the brakes lock up, the tires will lose traction and the driver will no longer be able to steer, losing control of the vehicle. This is why it is important for a driver without ABS to pump the brake pedal during panic stops. Pumping the brakes allows the wheel to continue spinning during the stopping maneuver. A wheel that's spinning has more traction than a wheel that's skidding. Without traction, a vehicle can not be stopped or steered. An Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) uses a computer to automatically pump the brakes for the driver. Since a computer can pump the brakes more times in a second than a person can in a minute, ABS gives a driver considerably more control over the vehicle when stopping quickly. Some of these systems only pump the brakes for the rear wheels (mostly trucks SUVs), and some pump the brake for all four wheels. Steering can lock up on rear wheel ABS; four wheel ABS allows the driver to continue steering during a panic stop. ABS is not designed to stop a vehicle faster. However, a vehicle with ABS is probably going to stop safer.

Q:What is the meaning of the brake failure?

Brake is the brakes, foot brake, handbrake can be called the brake. Brake failure is the brake failure.

Q:I have a 2001 Chevy Lumina and the brakes have been working just fine, but this morning when I started for work I pressed the brake and my car almost didn‘t stop, what would cause this. It was very cold last night would this have something to do with it? I did pump them and sometimes they would catch like they used to sometimes the pedal would go all the way to the floor.

Have it checked!! As an inspection mechanic, I fail many brake lines that are on the verge of blowing out. Especially me being on the east coast, I replace a LOT of rusty brake lines. Most cars are set up so you will not lose front and rear brakes at the same time, but DON'T TAKE CHANCES get it to a shop asap, and have it towed if it is really bad. Especially if its just slowly bleeding down now, that could be a small leak that could suddenly become a big leak! If your reservoir is full and nothing is dripping off the bottom of the car when you press the brake, it could be an internally leaking master cylinder, which is a less dangerous situation, but still have it checked

Q:I drive a 2006 toyota corolla with 195k miles on it. Past 3 days I‘ve been noticing it takes a bit more pressing down the pedal to brake completely. The pedal doesn‘t sink in and there‘s no fluid leaks (to my knowledge). The entire brake system is no more then 6 months old. Excluding the pads which got about half life in them. There was a weird squeaking sound that would come and go randomly and when I braked it would go away. The pedal also feels a bit spongy.All this happened the day after I changed my oil and jacked the car up with the e brake pulled.

Wheel bearing may be going out! Get it cked out!

Q:I‘ve got an Opel Kadett 1985. Drum breaks. No matter if it‘s hot, cold or raining my right rear wheel brakes on it‘s own. Somtimes it happens often and sometimes it doesnt happen for days even weeks. I‘m driving normally and all of a sudden it just brakes/gets stuck. Sometimes it gets unstuck just as easily, but sometimes i have to either hit it with a hammer a few times or pump the brake pedal. Now, I have replaced the cylinder in the drum so that‘s not an issue. Which only leaves me with master cylinder i guess. And I do have enough oil in the brake system. What do you guys think?

It is not that there is iron in a star that kills it. The Sun was born with far more iron in it than the rest of the solar system had in it altogether. It is that iron is the end of the exothermic road. Fusing iron costs energy; it doesn't release it. The energy that was released by the fusion of lighter element that heated the star that held the inward pull of the stars gravity is gone. Gravity wins. The star collapses. The kinetic energy released from the infall supplies energy to fuse heavier elements. The renewed reactions sets up a rebounding shock wave that blows the star apart. Opps!

Q:Hi, i have a 1969 volkswagen bug. Time to time on of my wheels looses its brake. My mechanic said that one of the values which exist between the brake line and the master pump might getting blocked and have to replace it. But the problem is i couldn‘t find those values since they are out of stock in my country. So what the part dealer said was to connect the line without the value. 1. What kind of a work those values does in the brake system ?2. If those are removed what is the bad side of it ?Thank you in advance.Gayan,

Mechanic is talking to you in layman languagesomething you can understand on the principles of how it works. It is the wheel cylinders, one for each wheel. Get a book on VW repair either out of a library our out of a second hand store for a dollar. Interesting you have 3. But then again, I never really counted. If you remove, no brakes and no brake fluid and too bad for you. All cars wear out just like the shoes on your feet, so you have to keep them up which mean spending more than just for gas and oil. The dealer should have it, mind you they do not have to carry parts past 20 yearsso for this item you could be hoopedso next option would be an autoparts store or an autosalvage yard or you would have to rebuild the unit you got. But you would already know that if you had half a clue and not be here asking, so I realize I am talking another language. So much easier and cheaper timewise to get another

Q:Im building a 1970 plymouth Duster and trying to find a modern Chrysler product that will interchange with a 1970 Plymouth duster for front disc brake system

I've never heard of welding a caliper in place in anything, wouldn't work right and brakes would be garbage. A proper conversion will include brackets to mount your calipers to the vehicle correctly so they can slide and move like they're supposed to. The best thing to do is to contact several different performance parts companies (such as Summitt, PAW, etc) or check out their websites and see who has the best deal on a conversion kit. A good conversion kit will include all necessary items, including a new master cylinder and proportioning valve along with the calipers, pads, and mounting brackets.

Q:I bought a 2010 corolla, from day one the brakes are very low. the saleman told me its the ABS. I had the brakes adjusted by the dealer, the parking brakes was adjusted also. The brakes feels better than before. But there is still problem, once a while it makes a scraping sound, Sometimes, the brake petal will still goes down after the car came to a complete stop. Is there air in the brake system? anyone knows what‘s wrong? Thanks

You cant use it. It will just brake. Some bicycle stores will do a repair job for free.

Q:my brakes are sticking only when they get hot or when the brake fluid gets hot i have replaced the wheel beering schecked the calibers and hoses along with removing the abs fuse so what else could it be please give me some more ideas

Randall, all ya got to do is have the brake system flushed and fresh fliud in. What happens is brake fluid and water mix REAL WELL TOGETHER and can ruin the ABS system costing big bucks to replace it(#1 rule with brake fluid and ABS systems is flush at least once a yr). Your local dealership service dept can do this along with Midas or similar shops