Construction Food & Beverage agricultural water pump

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Construction Food & Beverage agricultural water pump

HJ(R)B Series Water Pump

Speed: 2900r/min 1450r/min

Inlet diameter: 50-200mm

Capacity: 6.3-400m3/h

Head: 5-125m

Pump material: cast iron or stainless steel
Impeller: open or semi-open or close impeller

Seal: mechanical seal or gland packing seal
Single stage end suction centrifugal pump

HJB Water Pump Features

1. HJB-type pump is Single-stage and Single-suction centrifugal pump, which designed according to ISO2858 international standard and the replacement product of BA-type water pump. It is widely used in industrial and municipal water supply and drainage, agricultural irrigation and can also be used for conveying water or physical and chemical properties similar to water or other liquids bellow 80°C.

2. HJBR-type pump is also designed according to ISO2858 international standard, which designed for boiler feed water and hot water circulation system. It could also be used for industrial and municipal water supply and irrigation, but the temperature should be not higher than 150°C

Q:I bought a new water pump for my 89 S10 Blazer with the 4.3 V6. The guy at Autozone wanted to know if I wanted a standard one or the heavy duty. I bought the heavy duty one because it was only $5.00 more. Are they just built stronger or do they actually move more water?: Mistake #1. Auto Zone doesn't stock anything close to the quality as an OEM part. If you want a better than average OEM water-pump get an aluminum Stewart Stage 1, 2, 3 or 4. The impeller builds more engine and cylinder head coolant pressure which prevets steam pockets in the heads. Little does Jason know that not all water-pumps created equal.

Q:I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff: Well yes it wiould , powerful pumps need more electric power so check that the generator can supply the power needed by the pump

Q:In 2005, the water pump, export pressure in recent years decreased year by year, the running current is increasing, there are 4 pumps are like this. Professional personnel advice please!: The outlet pressure decreases, indicating a decrease in speed. The increase of the current shows that the load has increased. Generally speaking, the resistance of rotating parts increases. Check that the bearings of the pump and motor are damaged as soon as possible. As soon as you replace it, you will be able to return to normal. If this is done for a long time, the motor is likely to burn out

Q:the question i have is can the pump be turning and not leaking but not pump water??? i know the olden days (the good ole days) as long as the impeller was turning it would pump water! leaking seal is when it went bad,or locked up..like a box fan blade as long as it is turning its moving air...: Yes, the impeller could be broken. Believe it or not, the belt could be on wrong. If by chance it was replaced recently, it is possible to put the belt on the wrong side of the pulley. It should be running on the bottom side, not the top-next to the little plastic cover.

Q:water pump has small leak: If its an automotive water pump, you need to have it replaced. Because of pump pressures and constant expanding/contracting there is no reliable way to seal the leak. Plus the leak will only get worse. Radiator additives basically clog leaks from the inside, like a bloodclot on a body. But the leak never actually heals and instead the stuff clogs other parts like the inside of the radiator or heater core.

Q:I need to do a new water level indicator interface for an experimental rig. I'm going to have the buttons that will start and stop the pump. And a column that will show the percentage of the water level in the experimental rig. Please help. I'm so clueless. And this is my final project. :(: They're equal (VB and VB6 variations of VB, surely VBA is super high-degree) in the phrases of where they rank within the excessive-stage/low-stage programming language rankings. Java is extra priceless without problems for the reason that it results in other matters (and could be very marketable on it's own), particularly c/c++/c# and net languages like php/javascript which have c-like cyntax. VB.Web and VB6 don't particularly result in so much (although they each support comprehend object-orientation). you can do the identical matters with visual normal that you can do with Java or C++. You are not able to do the identical things in VB as c++. For C# that you would be able to make a small case because it does aid c++-like code (hazardous keyword) but absolutely not VB.Internet (or VB6 most likely). Just are trying doing a C# an identical of stackalloc in VB.

Q:I was wondering if the noise from a water pump can bother my crested gecko. I have a water pump that cycles the water that is in the leca balls, it does not make a load noise but the noise is there. Will this bother him?: It could potentially. Just see how he does-any decrease in activity or appetite-86 the pump

Q:1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :): 196,000 miles three water pumps is not that bad. Depends where you purchased them. If you opted for cheapies like auto zone then you get what you pay for. Since you are having this problem over and over again, I would agree with the ford technician, purchase one from Ford and see how that does.

Q:I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?: i agree with richard. get a hose attachment, a set of earmuffs and run it with them. you wont be able to see water exiting the prop shaft area with the motor in a bucket. hte indicator, where the motor normally pisses to show its pumping water, those sometimes get clogged and need cleared out. it is possilbe for the motor to suck air, or exhuast, instead of water, if a gasket is bad around the impeller. in addition to the gaskets normally changed, there are more gaskets underneath that. usually, those gaskets only go bad if the motor is overheated to the point that the old impeller housing shows signs of excessively high temps. if the old housing was half metled, id go ahead and pull it apart and change the other gaskets too. but the exhuast chooses to exit that port becuase its easier to go out there then through the water. and you see water exit with it, so you know it is pumping water up into the motor. i'll also point out this much. if you are unsure, take it to a proffessional. you can total your motor by operating it without a properly working cooling system. paying a pro to fix it right is much cheaper then a new motor.

Q:water pump contents: contents no, replace component.

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