Color Coated Steel Coil/PPGI Prepainted galvanized Steel Coil (PPGI/PPGL) /SGCC/Roofing steel

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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Product Description:

Quick Details

Standard:

AISI,ASTM,GB,JIS

Grade:

CGCC, DX51D

Thickness:

0.25-0.8MM

Place of Origin:

Zhejiang China (Mainland)

Brand Name:

CNBM

Type:

Steel Coil

Technique:

Cold Rolled

Surface Treatment:

Coated

Application:

Roofing

Special Use:

Silicon Steel

Width:

800-1250MM

Color:

Ral or according to sample

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:color steel coil STANDARD EXPORT SEAWORTHY PACKING
Delivery Detail:25 DAYS AFTER DOWN PAYMENT

Specifications

color steel coil
Prime Quality, Quick Delivery, Competitive Price

Prepainted Galvanized Steel Coil (PPGI/PPGL)

 

Base material:                             Hot dipped galvanized steel

Width:                                       available from 800MM to 1250MM

Width Tolerance:                         within 0.02MM

Thickness:                                 available from 0.18MM to 0.80MM

Thickness Tolerance:                   within 0.15MM

Performance:                              Smooth or Matte

Color:                                         according to RAL standard

Lacquer Coating thickness:           according to customer needs

Supply capacity:                          8,000 Metric Ton per month

Our products has good performance on combining force and anti-erosion. We offer fine quality products and best price for our international customers.

COLOR COATING LINE
A Dual Uncoiler
B Stitcher
C Bridles
D Entry Accumulater
E Degreasing & Chemical Section
F Prime Coater
G Prime Oven
H Prime Water Quench
I Finish Coating
J Finish Back Coater
K Finish Oven
L Finish Water Quench
M Exit Accumulater
N Recoiler

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Q:Runescape: Money/Experience via mining (mithril vs. steel)?
If members, cannonballs. If not, steel kites, I suppose. Steel Platebody only alchs for 1200, and requires 5 bars... But I stuck with steel, till 70 smithing... cheaper, and requires less coal to make....
Q:Why low carbon steel have poor magnetic properties?
The composition you mention is not a low carbon steel.The carbon and manganese content are high enough to mean that the crystal grain size will be small. A very large grain size is needed in steels for transformers,motors etc.The large grain size and lack of carbides in low silicon steels for magnetic purposes allows the easy movement of magnetic domain walls.Transformer steels typically have a carbon content of about 0.003% and 3.5%Si with the phosphorus and sulphur at a tenth of the levels you mention.The high Si content increases the electrical resistivity of the magnetic core and reduces the power loss from eddy currents(the core metal has voltages generated in it by the changing magnetic fields) and the power lost in eddy currents heats up a transformers core so it needs extra cooling;the loss is inversely proportional to the resistivity and 3.5%Si increases resistivity of iron by a very large amount.The presence of high silicon with ultra low carbon and manganese level allows the soft magnetic steels to be annealed at very high temperatures(850 to 1100deg C)without a phase change so that the crystals have 10,000 to 10,000,000 times the volume of the crystals in heat-treatable (Just)steel you mention.Fine for playing with and demonstrating electromagnetism but not as electrical engineering feedstuff.
Q:Stainless steel or aluminum for campfire cooking?
Stainless steel. And you do NOT have to ruin the pan on a campfire. Carry some liquid dishwashing liquid (which you will want anyway). BEFORE putting the pan onto the fire, smear some dishwashing liquid on the OUTSIDE of your pan: bottom AND the sides. As the pan sits on the fire, the SOAP will blacken and soot up instead of the pan. When you wash the pan, the soot slips off with the soap you applied beforehand. If you don't coat the outside of your pan with dishwashing liquid, it will soot up and the soot does not wash off.
Q:Steel Barns..........?
Steel barns in the USA is the going fad; they are both strong and economical; and some companies offer DIY kits
Q:question about swords steel?
Steel grades generally tell you how much carbon is in the steel. The higher the number the more carbon. Aside from quality of manufacture, the better swords tend to be 1060 or more. Few quality swords are made from 1045. Which DOES NOtT hold an edge better (quite the reverse). Swords made of these different steels weigh about the same. That is, if you made two identical looking swords - one of 1095 the other of 1045, they would weigh the same. 1045 is only more commonly used because cheaper swords tend to be made from it. Edit: No real swords are made from stainless steel.
Q:Steel shot?
Steel,as you say has a shorter effective range that heavier metals, use at least two shot sizes larger with steel, i.e. if you normally use 6's, use 4's. Also check that your barrels are suitable for steel shot, most old guns are not. The more expensive alternatives are worth the money, although my experience of tin shot was not very impressive. I would recommend bismuth or, the best in my experience, tungsten matrix shot. P.S. All of the alternatives to lead are hard on the teeth!
Q:Are Black Steel and Black Iron the same?
Black steel is steel with a surface layer of dark coloured iron oxides used for low pressure hot water heating pipes. Black iron is iron without any finish on it, which is really gray-black in color. they may be the same as many people often confuse iron and steel. Since the steel is simply steel with a covering, it could describe any steel including your silver steel.
Q:Do steel guns burn when exposed to flames/ extreme heat?
Any steel will burn in the Presence of pure oxygen and high heat, that's how a cutting torch works.
Q:What is harder Gold or steel?
steel. it's used to support skyscrapers lol. gold can be molded easily into jewelry. although both gold and steel are both malleable, steel is harder to shape.
Q:How to temper steel? ?
Heat treating easy, HA! It is the most critical part of bladesmithing. Done wrong and all those hours of work go up in smoke (or a snap of the steel). You'll need a bucket of oil, preferably one that is deep enough to go in point first. If not you'll have to go in edge first, not recommended on a double edged blade, ok for single edge. You'll need to build a charcoal fire long enough for the blade. You will need to blow air under the fire to get it hot enough, the challenge is getting the heat even. You get the fire going and established, put the blade in turning it back and forth (if you keep turning it in the same direction when it heats up you could work a twist in it). When it starts turning red pull it out and touch it with a magnet, if the magnet sticks put it back. Keep heating and repeating until the magnet no longer sticks. Heat a little more, then quench rapidly point first. Don't let the blade lean to one side as warpage will occur. When it cools enough to touch, check with a file. If the doesn't file cut then you've properly hardened the steel and it's ready for temper. Now comes the really hard part. Grind the scale off carefully,preferably with a side grinder with a flap wheel. I've had hard wheel break freshly hardened blades. After cleaning you'll need to put it in an oven (preferred) or use a torch and carefully heat the blade. Watch the temper colors (oven temp 500-550F) or with the torch as the steel turns colors blue to purple for a double edged weapon. Any warpage that occurs needs to be worked out at temping temp.

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