Cold Rolled Coil and Sheets from China Mainland

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25 m.t.
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15000 m.t./month

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1.Structure of Cold Rolled Steel Description

The raw material of cold rolled steel coil/sheet is high quality hot rolled product, and after pickling continuous rolling, degreasing, annealing,skin pass,slitting and cut to length line etc. Along with it many kinds of new  technology and new process of global cold rolling production have been applied. Therefore the quality of the goods could be guaranteed. The product is widely used in outdoor and interior decoration, furnishing manufacturing, home appliance, automobile etc.

2.Main Features of the Cold Rolled Steel

• Excellent process capability

• Smooth and flat surface

• Workability, durability

• Excellent heat resistance performance

• High strength

• Good formability

• Good visual effect


3.Cold Rolled Steel Images

Cold Rolled Coil and Sheets from China Mainland


4.Cold Rolled Steel Specification

Standard:AISI,ASTM,DIN,GB,JIS,JIS G3302 ASTM 653M EN10142

Grade: Q195~Q345

Thickness: 0.16mm~1.5mm,0.16-1.5mm

Width: 1250,600-1250mm

Coil weight:3-12 MT

Coil ID:508/610mm

Chemical composition:
























5.FAQ of Cold Rolled Steel

We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely:

1.How about your company

A world class manufacturer & supplier of castings forging in carbon steel and alloy steel,is one of the large-scale professional investment casting production bases in China,consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 8000 tons Precision casting and forging parts are exported to markets in Europe,America and Japan. OEM casting and forging service available according to customers requirements.

2.How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

3. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

Usually within thirty working days after receiving buyer’s advance payment or LC. We will arrange the factory manufacturing as soon as possible. The cargo readiness usually takes 15-25 days, but the shipment will depend on the vessel situation.


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Q:what is stronger Tempered Steel Blade or Carbon Steel Blade?
1. all steel blades are tempered, whether they are high carbon blades or low carbon blades. 2. It depends on what kind of steel they are made from. So im going to answer this question, using the following qualifications. 440A stainless steel 440C stainless steel - high carbon. The higher the carbon level, the more brittle a blade becomes. But the higher the carbon level, will increase a steel’s wear resistance , meaning it will have a better edge retention 2. They both will work well. Pros's / Con's The 440C blades will need less sharpening, but are harder to sharpen The 4401 blades will need to be sharpened more, but are far easier to resharpen. So it basically comes down to where you will be using them and how you will be using them. If your gonna be out in the middle of the jungle and stopping for the night, then the high carbon blade would probably be better, you use it all day, resharpen it at night. If your gonna be cutting brush, tobbaco, etc on your land, then the 440A would be better, because you can take a couple of min's to resharpen it often
Q:why does steel have a density range when other metals do not?
Steel is not a pure element it is an alloy. Steel is primarily iron but it has many elements blended in that change it's density including carbon,silicon, nickel, chrome, etc. Aluminum and copper , magnesium and so forth can be the pure element or they can be alloys too. If they are alloys, then their densities vary also
Q:Aluminum vs Steel motorcycle gas tank?
Steel is most common. Aluminum is lighter but it's harder to form, so more expensive. Plus it dents more easily. And you can't use a magnetic tank bag. I've seen stainless steel tanks but they were usually specially made.
Q:fallout 3 broken steel?
Yes, Broken Steel is the only DLC that raises your level cap. Yes, you have to complete the main quest to play it. It's kind of a prologue to the events of the ending. If you don't have the DLC and complete the game it just ends and you can't play it anymore. With the DLC you'll be able to continue playing. As for which one to get, that's your preference. Most people like the Broken Steel because it has to do with the main story and it raises the level cap - so that's the one I'll suggest to you. I also think The Pitt and Point Lookout are worth getting as well. Mothership Zeta is the one I liked least. I thought it was kind of stupid, to be honest. Operation Anchoarge is a simulation and it's pretty fun, but I don't think it's worth the $9.99.
Q:damascus steel knife making?
Here's what you need, the cable should be a minimum of 9/16 with large wires. You need some borax (20 mule team from the store). A good hot coal, coke, or gas forge. If the cable has fiber rope in the center it will need to be removed. Fuse the ends of the cable to keep them from coming apart. I use my welder and while I'm at it I weld a handle to make it easier. Heat it in the forge when the forge is properly heated, rotate it. Some people will burn the oil out, but I've found that the forge does that just fine. Rotate the cable while it's heating. When it begins the turn red pull it out and sprinkle the borax over it, don't hold back use a lot. It will begin to melt and bubble into the steel. Put the cable back in the forge, rotate and watch. This is the critical part. When the steel starts to turn from orange/yellow to almost yellow/white take it out and lightly (I use a 2lb hammer) begin hammering the cable into a square or rectangle. If you do it right you'll notice that it will begin to fight the hammer, that's when you know the weld it taking place. You'll have to repeat the process down the length of the cable. Once you have the billet made you can begin the process of shaping the edge and tang. Once you have it shaped, follow proper forge procedure then grind all the yuck off and finish shaping. Then harden and temper and finish it out. Good luck. I almost forgot a very important part. Befor you start hammering put the cable in a vice while at welding temp (if you are strong you can use a couple of plyers) and twist it tight. On the next heat hold the cable in your left and and lay it on the anvil. Concentrate on your light hammer blows being on your side of the cable. This forces the cable strands together. If you are using smaller cable like 9/16 you can double the cable up and weld two peices together, it is easier and makes for a prettier blade. Doing this you don't have to worry about twisting the cable and you can hit it much harder to start with.
Q:Fender Steel Guitars?
well, it was made sometime before 1981, because that's when Fender quit making 10 string steel guitars. Without any more information than what you've given me, it could be the Pedal 2000, the PS210, or the Artist Dual 10. Fender made steel guitars from the 1950s through 1981, so it could be from any time in there. I hope you have the pedals with it. The 10-string and dual 10-string models were quite expensive in their day. Unfortunately, if you're thinking of reselling it, you're probably not going to get a lot of money for it unless you find a pedal steel player, and like I said, having all the pedals is very important in that case. Anyway, hope this helped. Good luck. If I were you I'd learn to play it. Pedal steel players are always in demand.
Q:steel or graphite?
If its for your bf, i would buy steel. Most guys prefer steel because it is more accurate and it think every guy on the pga tour uses steel shafted irons. Steel also usually costs less, which helps. Neither one is better, its just a matter of personal preference.
Q:whats better? steel irons or graphite?
Graphite is a lot lighter and will allow you to generate more swing speed and probably greater distance. I hit my graphite clubs about one club longer than my steel shafts. But, my steel shafts are far more accurate. I find I hit a lot more greens in regulation using my steel shafted irons than I do with my graphites. Since accuracy is far more important than distance for most people, I choose the steel shafted irons most of the time. You will NEVER see a professional or a low handicapper using graphite irons for this reason.
Q:types of stainless steel?
Types of stainless steel There are over 150 grades of stainless steel, of which fifteen are most common. The AISI (American Iron and Steel Institute) defines the following grades among others: - 200 Series—austenitic iron-chromium-nickel-manganese alloys - 300 Series—austenitic iron-chromium-nickel alloys Type 301—highly ductile, for formed products. Also hardens rapidly during mechanical working. Type 303—free machining version of 304 via addition of sulfur Type 304—the most common; the classic 18/8 stainless steel Type 316—Alloy addition of molybdenum to prevent specific forms of corrosion - 400 Series—ferritic and martensitic alloys.
Q:Steel navel rings! what to do!?
Surgical stainless steel 316LVM is good, 316L is nowhere near in quality. Its very unusual for someone to have a reaction to surgical steel. Avoid plain stainless steel. Titanium is better, tougher and lighter. And contains less nickel than surgical steel, pretty close to nothing. Its pretty much impossible to be allergic to good quality titanium. Niobium contains no nickel, but only comes as CBRs, and is pretty expensive and unusual. Silver and gold should be avoid in piercings. They have to mix it with so much other junk so that its strong enough, really high nickel content.

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