• CKJ5 Series AC Vacuum Contactor System 1
CKJ5 Series AC Vacuum Contactor

CKJ5 Series AC Vacuum Contactor

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Applicable Range

CKJ5 series AC Vacuum Contactor (hereinafter called contactor) is designed for long-distance making and breaking in circuit, frequency starting and controlling AC motor in the power system with AC 50Hz~60Hz, rated operating voltage to 1140V. It also can be formed with thermal relay and all kinds of protection apparatus, as electromagnetic starter, especially applies to explosion electromagnetic starter and all sorts of power control equipment .It may apply to the department of mine, metallurgy, petroleum, chemical industry, power, communication transportation, shipping, architecture and so on.


Applicable Standards

National Standards: GB/T 14048.1 GB 14048.4 JB/T 7122
National Standards: IEC 60947-4-1


Normal working and installation conditions

1. Altitude no more than 2000m.
2. Ambient temperature within-5℃~+40℃ .and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24hours.
3. Relative humidity no more than 50% at +20℃, and doesn抰 exceed 90% average of month .
4. No fire, explosion, corrosion and serious shake on the site.
5. Class of pollution: Class 3.
6. The inclined angle between the mounting surface and vertical surface no more than 15o
Note: when usage site is beyond the range of above, please show it when ordering, we will try our best to meet your requirement.


Structure features

Vacuum Contactor is composed of vacuum arc extinguishing system, electromagnetism system, lever transmission system, auxiliary contact, setting gear, isolating framework. The main characteristic as following:
1. Contact should be sealed in the vacuum explosion chamber which is isolated .
2. Contact will not be effected due to outside pollution.
3. Contactor takes vacuum as the dielectric of arc extinguishing with high breaking capacity and long life. For instance the electrical life of
AC-4 with 4 ×10 times even more than 6×10 , which is impossible for other contactors.
4. If the electric arc can not spray outwards, so there is no fire and blast.
5. There is no harmful gas and ensure clean operation environment.
6. Small distance and short over-travel make the full contactor compact and light,meanwhile, it provides quality products for selections of
electric apparatus assembled and assembly equipment.
7. The control circuit is composed of DC magnetism system and setting current gear.
8. There is no noise during operating.
9. AC or DC power supply will be right.


Outline and Installation Dimensions


Q:can somebody please explain the parts marked in red on the following image
The item marked 200mA is a fuse. The 4- 47000 ohm resistors are forming voltage dividers, each pair providing a voltage of 2.5V to the 2 centre pins of that plug. The 2.5 V on each is positive with respect to the lowest plug's pin. There is unlikely to be any load on the 2.5V., it is just providing a voltage.
Q:How can I tell if the fuse is blown?
For sure please call Sanyo service center to help you (don't wait until the set blow the worst case it can set fire. Buzzing sound usually comes from the component that has coil in it, like flyback, transformer. But it usually comes from the flyback when its leaking. If this the safety fuse you're talking about, when it blows your set won't be able to turn on anymore.
Q:Hi, I have a 1996 Cadillac Eldorado ETC with 180K miles. It has been running fine except for starting, it used to take a few cranks at times but other than that it was fine. My fuel pump seemed to have had failed and I replaced it with another but I still don't get any fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I have replaced the fuel filter, and a fuel pump relay located in the engine bay driver side fuse box. I have also installed an inline fuel pump and that get gas to the rails but it lack the high pressure required for EFI. My original fuel pump works now that I have tested it, so that was not the problem, it seems it might be an electrical issue since there seems to be no power getting to the in-tank fuel pump. My question.- Is there any other electrical components I need to look for and replace that control the power sent to the fuel pump? I cant afford to take it to any shop, or put it on a diagnostics system, I have to be able to bypass or rigg or fix myselfwhat do you think?
run a jumper wire to ur relay from a remote hot wire in ur fuse panel, but first check ur crank or cam sensor. that can cause the starting issue
Q:And my truck still want start without jumping that wire
Always double check fuses. A poor connections could be the problem but I would be suspicious of the wiring. If the wires run under the truck, make sure they aren't damaged from debris or rubbing on other components. Try jumping at the relay +. If it runs while jumped at relay +, then you know its a problem before the relay (ign switch wiring, fuses, etc)
Q:I have a house for sale that has a window unit in the living room. The air has been running fine all summer until just the past few days. As soon as the fuse is changed, the air will run maybe 30-60 sec and then will blow the fuse. We recently had the house treated for mold and not sure if the moisture could have anything to do with it??
there must be another large appliance that is on the same circuit. Check all the places the mold guys went to and see if they unplugged something and move the plug to another recepticle. Next time fuse blow tour the whole house to see what else is not working especially the basement/attic/storage areas
Q:I have a Polk Audio MOMO C400.4 that im planning to use to power my MOMO 6x5 components and MOMO 6x9's @ 75w RMS x 4. I also have a Kenwood KAC-7202 that i plan on running bridged which will pull 460w RMS @ 4 ohms. What size fuze will I need for 4 gauge wire? I have a 4AWG wire with a Rockford Fosgate distribution block that splits from 4AWG to 8AWG with AGU fuses on it, unknown size Would I still need a inline fuse to the battery?
The fuse near the battery is more important than the d-block fuses. One amp is 60A, the other's 40A - so logically you'd want a 100A fuse at the battery and a 60/40 in the d-block. 4 awg main and 8's out should be fine assuming you only have a few feet from the d-block to the amps.
Q:1993 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon
Did you check the fuse in the back of it? and have you checked all the good connections? Sometimes components just die especially cheap ones.
Q:I was just wondering what happens when an electrical component or circuit becomes 'shot' as we term it. Now I am studying engineering, and my field has delved slightly into electricity, so I understand electricity to a point. But anyone out their with a good understanding of electricity, what exactly goes wrong? Thanks.
Shot is usually used as a general term to mean the component/circuit is broken, which can come from any number of reasons. In an IC, for example, if too much heat is applied during soldering the chip will no longer function as intended. Likewise if too much voltage and/or current is applied the chip will no longer function. All three of these different things can lead to the component being shot, that is no longer functional. What types of things can break different components definitely depends on what component you're looking at.
Q:Hey all, I just bought a 1981 Subaru GL on Saturday--my first car, yay!Anyways the guy I bought it from said that the headlight fuse ocasionally blows out. Yep, its done it twice since I've had it.The first time I was driving and charging my phone in the cigarette lighter (maybe it can't handle everything at once?). Second time was two hours ago I went to start the car and the lights wouldn't come on.What's the underlying issue here? Fuses are cheap and easy to find but id rather fix it for good than having to buy a new set of fuses every couple if weeks.
Check your wiring harness. It can be shorting out if there is contact between two bare wires (rat damage) or a wire that is not grounded properly. Make sure nothing is stripped or bare, you should never be able to see through the plastic on wires. Make sure your battery is not corroded and grounded properly. Test light your harness to make sure the hots are hot and the nots are not. There is a lot of stuff on forums for wiring diagrams and such to make sure that no one pieced it together wrong or cut/spliced into something they shouldn't have. If your Lights are spliced with a higher voltage component the wires will get hotter than they were designed for and that will cause a fuse to burn out. Hope that helps. Follow the wires from the back of your headlight all the way to the firewall and make sure connection to battery is still good (will will likely have to pry apart that black slinky looking wire cover to make sure it's all good under the hood). Make sure to check for signs of pests!
Q:I have a variac transformer rated at 7.5 amps but the fuse burned out. I want to increase the rating to 20 amps, can I do this by replacing the fuse with a 20 amp fuse?
convinced, as said once you've #12/12 guage/awg 12 and with any luck all 3 wires you could positioned a 20 amp overcurrent protection gadget on the circuit with the only caveat being that on the bare minimum you've a minimum of one million 20 amp receptacle or a divided load and in case you extremely pick to be smart about it (or searching on what interpretation of which 12 months of the NEC you're going by ability of) you employ 20 amp receptacles through the homestead. Circuit Breaker AMPS twine length, length, and temperature AMPS receptacle AMPS. stick with the circuit. i'd improve each and everything and make certain no one cheated on the grounds everywhere.

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