• City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 1
  • City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 2
  • City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 3
  • City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 4
  • City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 5
  • City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 6
City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment

City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment

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Shekou
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
20 unit
Supply Capability:
500000 unit/month

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In order to simplify system maintenance and improve its liability and safety, presents PC series control box for solar pumping system based on years of research and experiments. The control box combines functions of solar pumping inverter and solar combiner box to simplify system wiring and operation as well as lowering costs. For solar pumping system combined with control box, power input is then backed up by city grid if the solar irradiation is not enough. Also, the special design improves system reliability. Optional reactors coupled with Control Box are suitable for scenarios where distance between Control Box and pump is far away.


Technical Features

1. The box contains combiner function with multiple connection ports for PV array and reverse-connection protection;

2. Thunder protection;

3. Fuse specifically designed for solar applications to withstand DC1kv, greatly improve system reliability

4. Solar DC breaker to improve DC withstanding voltage and system reliability;

5. IP54 protection grade, suitable for both indoor and outdoor installation;

6. Optional reactor to satisfy the long distance electricity transmission (200 meters and above);

7. Switch to different power sources (grid/diesel) if solar irradiation is not enough


Product Specifications


Solar Pumping Control Box Product Specifications

Model

Suitable Inverter

Grid Input

Dimension

mm

Weight

kg

PC-L2

PB750L - PB2200L

/

600*650*300

30

PC-L2/A

PB750L - PB2200L

Single Phase 220V ~ 250V

600*800*300

40

PC-H4

PB3700H / PB5500H

/

600*800*300

40

PC-H4/A

PB3700H / PB5500H

Three Phase 380V ~ 415V

700*900*300

50

PC-H6

PB7500H / PB11KH

/

600*800*300

40

PC-H6/A

PB7500H / PB11KH

Three Phase 380V ~ 415V

700*900*300

50

PC-H8

PB15KH / PB18KH

/

600*800*300

40

PC-H8/A

PB15KH / PB18KH

Three Phase 380V ~ 415V

700*900*300

50


       


City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment


City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment




Q:I recently bought a 1992 Honda Accord. It has high mileage but the records kept on it were impecable up to about the last 3 years. I have read that you need to replace the timing belt/water pump every 80k miles. However; I do not know when it was changed last. The Only record in the book on the subject was back at 90k miles. That was the first time they had the timing belt changed.So How do I know its time to change it again? The car now has 199k miles. I do not want to do unnecessary work before time, however; I also know that the affects it will have on the engine is great if its not done within the right TIME! Is there anyway to know it needs to be done? What kind of signs will the car give? And how much is it going to cost me when it has to be done? Thanks!
A water pump is mostly pretty obvious when it is going/gone it chirps it squeaks and your temperature will usually be higher than it usually was [not always]. As for a timing belt... they are relatively inexpensive, the labor isnt that bad since the car is VERY easy to work on, and it is difficult to tell when one is needed since the most it will make is a whining noise when its getting weaker, only sometimes though. This is hard to hear too. Best advice I have is to just get a couple appraisals/estimates, or have a friend who is mechanically savvy take a look to see if he/she can tell if the belt is worn to the point where it needs replacing. I had a timing belt done for $120 parts and labor on a 91 accord (same car)
Q:should replace timing belt & water pump on a newly purchased used vehicle..if no records of last x changed?
better to do it now than in the middle of winter when you have no choice good luck
Q:I have a 1992 acura legend coupe V6 3.2 liter engine. My water pump is leaking. How do I tell if I need the 1 tube or 2 tube pump because thats how the water pumps come. Its either the one tube or two tube but I dont know which one I need for my car. also, how much is the cost to install the water pump. Thank You,Josh
1992 Acura Legend Coupe
Q:Work done in water pumping?Water is to be brought from a well 60 meters bellow ground level to a tower 10 meters high, once there the water falls freely on a 5000 liter tank. A submerged pump 10 meters under water level and a two inch diameter pipe is to be used. What is the work done by the pump when 2000 liters have been served to the tank; what is the power of a pump selected to do this work in 20 minutes.
Power_W = (Mass_kg * Gravity_m/s/s * Height_m) / time_s Where: Mass kg is 1kg/l of 2000 liters Gravity is 9.81m/s/s Head is 60m + 10m (height). The suction head is ignored because the pump is submerged. In practice there is some suction head due to intake restrictions like pipes, check valves, strainers. The time is 20 minutes in seconds. The work is the energy used in the time allocated, which is: power * time in seconds, which is watt seconds = joules. Not needed here as it is in the formula above. Power is the rate of doing work. The depth below water is not really relevant except for pipe losses which increase the head slightly. The flow is 2000 liters/20 minutes = 100 l/min. This can be used with the head of 70m to determine the pipe restriction, which amounts to a pressure drop representing extra head added. It will indicate whether the pipe is too small (excessive head added) or whether the pipe is overkill (no head added). You can find on line calculators for this, e.g. search pipe resistance flow on line calculator. I am guessing a 2 inch pipe has little loss at this flow. This is the so called water power. It is the output power of the pump. The pump may only be 50% or so efficient, so the mechanical power delivered by the motor needs to be greater by this ratio. The electrical input power to the motor is greater again to allow for motor efficiency. This might be 60-90%. In practice the efficiency of pump and motor are determined from user manual or specification of the actual devices with the actual loads (head and flow).
Q:old sbc v8 water pump from oreilly's came apart and the fan ate up my serpentine belt, power steering pump pulley, clutch fan obviously, and put 5 holes in my new aluminum radiator. What will they cover? Remanufactured limited lifetime warranty. '78 chevy k10 350 sbc
Read the warranty carefully. I doubt they will easily admit their fault and offer to pay for damages. You might have to take them to court, but that means spending money on attorney fees, court fees, and risking losing even more. Tough luck, man.
Q:i got that special socket but everytime i try to loosen the pump going clockwise i can not get the pump to come loose the socket just slips off any suggestions these is a northstar engine
You sure you have the right tool?? There are 2 different tools they came out with. Cant remember the year but Cadillac changed the water pump design which the tools had to change. Neither one will work on the other design. Both almost look the same except the teeth stick further out on the older design. I always use a impact, put the socket on your impact just bump the trigger enough to get the pump to turn a little. But not too much or you'll break the ears of the housing then you'll have to replace the crossover asy I did see you said CLOCKWISE!!!!!! Make sure you are turning it to the direction to tighten, this has the reverse on/off direction
Q:I recently changed the lower unit, and am having no water out the top 2 ports just below the powerhead, also the engine is getting heated up. any other pumps other than in the lower unit?any advice is appreciated.
I think that when you put the lower unit back on you may have not gotten the water tube in properly so it is not pumping any water up to the power head.When you replaced your Impeller did you check to be sure there were no pieces of the old Impeller stuck in the housing anywhere?If you have done these things and it still does not pump water then you probably have a stuck thermostat and need to replace it.Hope this helps you and good luck.
Q:when i drove my truck after about 15 minutes i was parked and let my truck idle afetr about a minute of idling my truck stalled and when i turned it back of it was squeeking and made some noises for about ten seconds and then stopped. I noticed that the pully on my fan coming from the water pump was wobbling. my tempuratue was still normal what could cause this i am suspecting taht the bearings in my water pump went?
After the pully starts to wobble the next thing is the fan comes off and tears up the radiator. If you are going to do it yourself you can rent the tool to remove the fan at Auto Zone or Advance and remember it has left hand threads. Its best to remove the fan before the belt, it will hold the pulley while you smack the wrench with a hammer to break the fan loose. You don't have to but I always recommend new by pass, tiop and bottom radiator hose ans a new thermostat. You'll find that if you unbolt and lay aside the a/c compressor and alternator and breather it is not a hard job.
Q:coolant coming out around a tube that supplies the heater core (told its the water pump just don't see how)
That tube is part of the water pump housing. Essentially the water pump. You may be able to get the leak fixed but if it's that old just go ahead and replace the pump.
Q:is there a water pump capable to pump up to 1/4 of an inchsand from 90' deep well?
If the sand is suspended in the water then yes there are pumps that will pump it. Other wise no.

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