• Chemical Process Pump CPP001 System 1
  • Chemical Process Pump CPP001 System 2
  • Chemical Process Pump CPP001 System 3
Chemical Process Pump CPP001

Chemical Process Pump CPP001

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
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Quick Details

Place of Origin:
Zhejiang China (Mainland)
Brand Name:
CNBM
Model Number:
FSB
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Structure:
Single-stage Pump
Usage:
Chemical
Power:
Electric
Standard or Nonstandard:
Standard
Fuel:
Electric
Pressure:
Middle pressure
Application:
Chemical
Working condition:
Contimuous
Working enviroment:
Indoor & outdoor
Guarantee of pump:
12 Monthes
Guarantee of wearing parts:
3 Monthes
Wearing parts:
Impellers, seals, etc
Shaft seal type:
Mechanical seal
Customized orders:
Provide standard or customized pumps
Packing:
Plywood case, carton, pallet
Delivery time:
Small order 1-5 days, big order within a month
Shipping:
By sea, by air, by express

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:Plywood case for normal pumps and machines, plate for heavy pumps and machines.
Delivery Detail:2 days and above according to clients requirements.

Specifications

FSB single stage single suction centrifugal pump chemical process pump
1.Convey corrosive medium
2.Fluorine plastic alloy

FSB single stage single suction centrifugal pump chemical process pump

1. Introduction:

1. FSB single stage single suction centrifugal pump chemical process pump is reasonable design, compact structure, reliable performance, easy to use and saving energy.

2. Applied to convey acid, oxidant, corrosive medium (forbid to transit medium likely to crystallize) with physical property similar to water.

3. Wet parts are made of fluorine plastic alloy through reasonable design, mold pressing, machining, with advantages of strong corrosion resistance ability, high mechanical strength, non aging, no toxin decomposed.

4. It is widely used in the fields of chemical industry, petrol, medicine, pesticide, dye, smelting, paper making, plating, and food, etc.

Q:I found a small submersible water pump for pond decorations or birdbaths in my garage. It's about the size of three decks of cards stacked on top of each other. Would there be any harm/benefit of putting this into a 55 gal fw community tank?
well it depends, do you have any small fish? and how is the water cycled in the pump? it needs to be protected so that fish dnt obviously get sucked. before you add it in tho need it submerged in a bucket of water and add several teaspoons of salt; that will kill all the bacteria that may have grown on and inside the pump. leave it in there for minimum 24 hours (just to be sure).
Q:This is a brand new water pump and we used plenty of gasket maker. Does this year of f150 need the back plate that comes on the water pump?
Plate YES Leaking from Block Surface or Weep Hole?
Q:Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
Q:We usually wait 4 - 5 minutes for hot water in our master bath. I've been looking into ricirculation pump systems. This would have to be a retro-fit system since some of the lines run through concrete slab making adding a return loop on the line non-feasible. I have found some people comment on simply using a by-pass valve system without a pump (ie. Hot Water Lobster). We do have hard water which I've also read that can present a problem with pumps dieing quite quickly. While I'd like it, I don't need 1 second hot water, but I can't stand wasting gallons waiting for 4-5 minutes. A reasonable 15-30 second wait would be a huge improvement. Has anyone had reasonable success with the bypass valve without the pump or should I plan on getting the pump too? Thanks in advance!
Get the pump, the valve is useless without it. Why anybody would advise you to put a tankless heater under the sink to remedy one faucet when the recirc system will do it for all your fixtures is beyond me.You will not need a return line with the rscirc system. They work good!
Q:i was wondering how hard it would be to chancge a water pump in a 1997 chrysler sebring.
I had a 97 Eagle Vision that had a lot of the same internals as the Sebring, Intrepid, etc... I went through 4 water pumps on it and eventually got rid of it because of the lemon laws. From what I remember back then it is an electric water pump with an absolutely horrid location for mounting. I am going to guess that it's something best left to an ASE type of of mechanic.
Q:when replacing the Water pump on an Isuzu rodeo while getting a new gasket does it require gasket sealant for this type of vehicle?
it depends mainly on the gaskets you are using whether or not they are paper type gaskets or rubber type gaskets or cork type some cars have only sealant and no gaskets most rubber gaskets don't need sealant some install it anyway for extra protection but to much sealant it could clog your cooling system if they are paper type gaskets a little sealant is added protection some mechanics put sealant on the gasket simply to hold it in place during the install some gaskets require sealant and a specific one at that there are many different types of sealant keep in mind if your gasket manufacture requires sealants to install its would be listed on the box it arrives in for the pre installation guides make sure you get the one they say also all sealant that dry some are wet sealants and never dry, keep in mine that if the sealant requires dry time after install you follow those guide lines otherwise it will leak keep in mind also that the water pump housing bolts have a specific install and tightening and torque down for that type of gaskets like 15 foot pounds on the bolts for cork type gaskets if you crank the bolts down to tight its going to split the gaskets and your back to square one replacing it again
Q:I just had the water pump replaced, now less than a week later it is overheating again and sometimes blowing cold air. What does this sound like it would be?
Unless the weep-hole is leaking on the bottom of the water-pump input shaft housing, the impeller inside the pump rarely goes bad. The impeller is the part inside the water-pump that circulates the coolant thorough the radiator, heater-core and cooling passages of the motor. There are several checks to eliminate possibilities why the cooling system is getting too hot. I wish you had told us the year, make and model of the car plus the number of miles on the odometer. If the coolant has been getting so hot that it bubbles back inside the plastic cooling system reservoir, have a private mechanic do an inexpensive cooling system pressure test to see if you have any external or internal coolant leaks. If not, have the thermostat changed with a factory original. Always check and refill the radiator when the motor is stone cold. Fill the plastic cooling system reservoir 3/4 full when ever you remove the radiator pressure cap. If you or someone has ever mixed chemical types of antifreeze other than the factory recommended brand or type it will eventually plug-up your cooling system and cause it to overheat. It may be necessary to drain, flush and clean the system with a one part acid cleaner. If you haven't in the past had your coolant drained and flushed every three years and your car is 12 years old or older get ready to buy a new radiator. They're easy to install and they're not too expensive these days because they come from Mexico or off-shore suppliers. Keep this in mind: The higher the percentage of antifreeze in the coolant the less efficient the cooling system becomes. Antifreeze is an insulator of heat transfer. That's why race cars don't use it! If this statement is hard to believe, Look up Stewart Water Pumps on the net. They'll tell you that pure water is the best coolant to use for heat transfer purposes. In the real world we can't do that because of temperature fluctuations.
Q:Today I was installing a new water pump on my 1999 grand Prix. When tightening the bolts one of them snapped off. Now the pump leaks from that broken bolt. I was wondering if I would be able to stop the leak using some sort of sealant or would I have to take the car in to get the bolt removed?
The bolts around the pump have several reasons and one of them is for proper mounting, another is when engine cooling system and block expand when engine is running gaskets dont leak, ect. Yes, that bolt has to be removed, so that bolt hole can be used. If you have enough mechanical ability to remove and replace the pump, with the proper tools, you could do it.
Q:My timing belt is worn but has not broken yet. The mechanic first told me it would be about $200-250 to replace the belt. Then he called back and said it was going to be $550 because on an Aveo you have to replace the water pump at the same time. I asked if it was possible to do just the belt and he said quot;well the water pump will probably break when we take it outquot;. Is this a sign that I should just break down and go to a dealership so that my water pump won't quot;breakupon removal?
He is saying that, because the water pump is driven by the timing belt and you SHOULD replace it while you are in there. Why pay twice down the road? Sure the belt can be done without doing the pump, the fact that he said the pump will break when doing a belt is complete bullsh*t though. There is no need to do anything to the pump when changing the belt other than taking the belt off the pulley. That's it. Generally, I just add maybe .5 hrs to the labor for the belt when doing the pump also, DOUBLE doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Unless he is worried about pump BOLTS snapping from CORROSION (that may be it) when removing the actual water pump, that is the only thing that can possibly justify doubling the labor, they may be in water jackets in the block. He should, however, make you aware that that is a possibility and not automatically assume that will happen and charge you for it. Depends, if they are careful with the removal, it should just add another 20-30 minutes to the timing belt job. Either way if you turn down the pump and they are telling you it will still break(?), go somewhere else. I work on cars everyday and would never charge someone an additional 300 dollars off the bat assuming the bolts will break. There are tricks to prevent that as well (penetrating fluid/PB Blaster). Generally if that does happen, one maybe two bolts would break tops and that still doesn't justify the additional labor... Hope that helps....
Q:I have a 2000 chevy impala with 85K on it. I have heard/a weird rattle noise from under the hood for some time now. I once asked about it on here and got suggestions regarding front end problems. I had that checked out and the front end is good. I still have the rattle noise along with a high pitched, but not very loud, squeeling noise when I accelerate. I am leaking coolant and it seems to be coming from near one of the belts. Is this a bad water pump? If so how expensive of a fix is it and how involved of a repair is it?
It sounds like a water pump or maybe a loose connection. It is probably time for a water pump if it hasn't been replaced yet. Parts will run under $60 and it probably involves an hour of labor. The Impala is a big car, it shouldn't be hard to get to and remove. Taking it to a shop will run under $100-$150 for everything.

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