Chemical Cantilever Centrifugal Pump IH Series

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General Description
Type IH pump is single-stage, single-suction chemical cantilever centrifugal pump, it is instead of type F anti-corrosive centrifugal pump, it is a saving energy products, it widely used in the field of chemical engineering, petroleum, metallurgy paper-making, food, medicine, fiber, etc., it is suitable for delivery corrosive medium or the medium which are not permitted to contaminate, the inlet pressure is ≤0.3MPa, the medium temperature is 20℃ to 105℃, it can deliver more higher temperature medium by cooling unit.

Performance Range
Flow:6.3~400m3/h
Head H :5m~125m.

Instruction of pump type
For example：IH50-32-160A
International Standard Chemical centrifugal pump
Inlet diameter is 50mm
Outlet diameter is 32mm
Nominal impeller diameter is 160mm
Impeller first cut

Structure
The pump is single-stage single-suction overhanging centrifugal pump. The pump is back pull-out type. It is unnecessary to disturb the intel piping, outlet piping and pump casing, the impeller can be dismantled for maintenance.
The shaft seal adopts packing seal or mechanical seal according to customers ‘requirements. The pump uses rolling bearings which get lubricated with dilute oil.

Rotation direction
The rotating of the pump rotor is clockwise looking from the motor to the pump.

Material of main parts
The medium-contacting parts are made of alloy stainless steel, material No.ZG1Cr18Ni9 and ZGCr18Ni12Mo2Ti,etc.

Parts range
Pump, Motor, common bedplate, coupling, check value and sluice valve.

Q:Hello, i have a 1987 volkswagen cabriolet that i purchased earlier this year. So far its been a pain in the butt. Recently i noticed it overheats real quick, but it didnt use to. then i noticed the coolant/antifreeze was being used up like no other! I discovered, after being parked at work, that it was leaking.it leaks basically anything i put in there now!! it leaks from the water pump housing,.,.... at least thats what the internet said it was.. its leaking from the end of the hose that connects to the engine... (the hose that comes from the coolant reservoir.)What do i do? I dont feel any cracks? does this part crack? is it an o-ring or somehting? I am really absolutely NOTHING ABOUT CARS. Please help!!: HI It is an o-ring Loss the 4 bolts holding the pump and put some silicon glue on the o-ring and get it back.

Q:i want to change the water pump on my on a 70 hp (70C) nissan outboard motor and i never pulled a lower unit, not sure what to expect thanks for any help: hi you need to get the workshop manual for your motor. You can go to the library I am sure they will have one. The basics though... make sure you have a lower unit gaskey set, a full water pump rebuild kit and the correct impellor. You need the manual so that you can locate the correct bolts to loosen and the procedure for disconecting the gear shifting mechanism. With the manual its an easy job. without.. its kind of pot luck if you have never done it before. I have changed impellors and water pumps on many different boat motors and i have aways used the manuals. Even now I would still use the manual as a reference to change the impellor and water pump housing in my Johnson even though i have done it before. The manual will probily cost about $25 but it will save you hundreds in the long run as you will be able to trouble shoot other problems.

Q:Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?: The first thing I was taught on Volvo water pumps was to use NO sealer. Get yourself a new gasket.Make sure the block is clean. Install the gasket on the two studs. Grease the heater pipe o-ring after installing on the pipe. Grease the hole it fits into. Install the top seal on the water pump and coat the surface with grease. Install the pump on the block and make sure the pipe has entered the pump. Tighten the two nuts until the pump is almost contacting the block but still moves easily. Insert a smaller Phillips head screwdriver into the bottom bolt hole of the pump and into the block. Lift the pump ,using the screwdriver ,until you can start the top bolt.Then use the screwdriver to wiggle the pump to start the left side bolt. Once you have started those two bolts,the bottom one will go right in. Tighten it all up and install the heater pipe bolt and you are done.

Q:i have recently taken of my whole water pump cover to drain the fluid, not knowing that there was a drain screw to do it.So when i took it off, i broke the seal, and now the coolant constantly drips 24/7 until i have none left, nearly blew my head gasket the other day.I was going to get a new part, but then a friend told me about locktite to seal it shut so that it does not leak????Is this the super glue stuff orrrrr? :(Please help me and links would be good so i know what to getThanks you very much!: DPO, You will need the water pump gasket, water pump gasket sealant and the manual. DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE. Remove the cover [after draining the coolant this time] and clean everything up nice and dry. Resist the urge to scrape and gouge the parts with a screw driver to remove the old gasket material. you can use a scotchbrite pad to clean it all up. [no, steel wool cannot be used] Use a THIN film of sealant on each side of the gasket [NO, more is not better] and bolt it back together gently or you risk cracking the pump cover. Don't forget to refill with coolant and recheck after it has warmed up and cooled again.Get the manual before you do any more damage. You didn't give the year or exact model 85 so the link below is just for example.

Q:My house uses a pump that draws well water. With a family of four, I had never had a problem running out of water, even through 4 morning showers. Recently however, I have started running low and sometimes even run dry of water, although it’s now just me and my wife living at home. The pump is only a couple of years old. A couple of neighbors also have wells and pumps, so I don’t believe the water shelf has run low. The holding tank is at least 15 years old and probably older. I don’t know if it has a bladder, but I think it does. It’s a Wel-Trol brand. I’ve checked the pressure with a tire gauge and it holds at 30 psi. Also, it seems the cut in and out switch has a mind of its own. It especially would continue to run, even though the pressure hit cut-off level. Any ideas or suggestions?Thanks: Underground okorder /

Q:I have a well water pump and the motor seems to just run but won't transfer water through the line, checked for leakage, etc but no signs. Even tried priming it but it does nothing. Any idea of what could be wrong or how to repair this problem?: If the captive air tank has failed you should still get some water flow. if you are not getting any flow and the pump is spinning then the pump may need to be replaced. There is also a pressure switch that may have failed but if that were the case you would have got flow unless the pump burned up. so, bottom line is this. 1) turn power off. let a tiny bit of air out of the Schroeder valve on the captive air tank. if water comes out, the tank is bad. make sure to fill the tank up to about 40psi. 2)turn power off. remove the cover of the pressure switch and clean with compressed air. move the switch back and forth. sand the contacts with emory cloth. 3) if the tank was good turn the power back on and make sure all the valves are open (even the ones you havent touched) if you are still not getting water you should probably call a plumber. most likely at this point you have a bad switch or tank and it has caused your pump to burn up. good luck

Q:my water pump is making this quot;chuckingsound, and i was wondering if bad water pump creates these sound? and also, do i need to replace the serpentine belt at the same time?: pump is probably bad, and yes the timing belt needs to changed at the same time so you don't have to pay labor when the time comes to change it.

Q:Fully automatic self-priming pump: It's difficult to answer your question only from the name you give! There are many automatic self suction pumps on the market. Generally, the pump outlet is equipped with a pressure switch. It starts automatically when the pressure is low, and stops after a certain pressure.If the pump outlet is the pool (water tank), then it is not a simple "automatic self-priming pump".It is an automatic water supply system. The whole system includes water pump, water tank, liquid level meter, electromagnetic starter (contactor), switch and so on

Q:im thinking about buying a 93 ford taurus for $950. the owner says it will probably need a new water pump and brakes in the near future. is it worth it? i dont know anything about cars!: in good condition (depending on the mileage) it may be worth a thousand dollars, but if all the brakes need doing and the master cylinder, and the rotors, that brake job and water pump could be almost as much as you paid for the car. And what is the guy so lazy or cheap he does not do repair work, ? I bet it needs tags soon too, this guy sounds like some cheap basshole, tell him to fix the car, and walk away from it any way, the transmissions were bad on the early 90s taurus, go with a later model after 97 they are much better, let this guy keep is crappy taurus, that he will not fix, and keep looking, patience, patience,patience is the name of the game for good cheap thousand dollar cars, and this is not the one. good luck

Q:What is the difference between self-priming and non self suction?: Non self suction is the ordinary water pump for the water inlet pipe, but the flow of water is small,Self suction for the water inlet no water (that is, 4, 5 floor water, no water on the 6 floor), it uses the principle of negative pressure to suck up the water

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