Q:GE microwave oven blows its main time delay inline fuse everytime i put new one in

Microwave Fuse

Q:i replaced the old fuse after it blew and it keeps blowing when i plug it in. it calls for a 5A 125V 5mm X 20mm fuse could i replace it with a higher rated fuse? like a 6A or something, why do the new fuses keep blowing?

Do NOT keep replacing a fuse that keeps blowing! There is a serious internal fault that is causing excessive current draw that dramatically overheats internal components. You are likely to be causing more damage each time you do this. The unit needs professional servicing. Using a larger fuse increases the chances of the unit catching fire.

Q:I needs to locate it in order to change the fuse to work the heated seats and i am having a hard time locating it. I have read the user manual by the way and its very unclear to where it actually is!

This was not the case on my 99 Couger. Fords Hidden central fusebox and this is applicable to many models and not just the Couger. After much googling I located the whereabouts of the Central fuse box,its not easy even when you know where its supposed to be? I posted this on another forum The central fuse box is located under the glove box,you need to take down the foot well trim.Its not easy to see use a torch there is a small button which you pull to lower the fusebox then you can pull the fusebox towards you to access the fuses.There seems to be lots of people with this problem and seems to be a stupid place to hide a fusebox and seems designed to drag you into a main dealer for a petty fault.My own fault was a central locking boot release problem a simple case of replacing the 20 amp fuse and freeing off the boot release key barrel with WD 40 at least ?200 @ your friendly dealer.

Q:I have a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L Automatic. Tried starting it and nothing works. What DOES WORK are the headlights, horn, door chime, brake lights, tail lights, hazards, and the interior lights. No idiot lights, radio, heater/fan, and doesn't turn over. Battery is charged. I also put a screw driver to the posts of the starter and it sparked, so juice is going to the starter. I know that it is something electrical. What puzzles me is that not even a idiot light comes on, even when I turn on the headlights, the dash lights turns on as well and that didn't come on. Does anyone know what I should look for or check? Has anyone heard of a Relay that goes bad where GM had a recall once? No answer is a stupid answer unless you tell me to check my antifreeze. Thanks!

Ignition switch may be bad. The Radio, Idiot Lights, Heater/fan only work with the ignition switch on. All the other lights, horn, door chime, etc work weather the key is on or not.

Q:Basicly I took my car to a mechanic to get a new clutch. I know that they took the battery out in order to do the job. Soon after I got my car back the subs stopped working. I took alook at all the audio components and wiring earlier today and notice that the fuse sized 40 was blown. I am talking about the fuse right next to the battery leading to the amp. I replaced it but it blew out shortly after again. The mechanic said its not his problem and now I am on here on yahoo looking for a solution. Can some one tell me were I should start looking. Thank you very much!

turn the gain on the amp all the way down before you turn it on. then start the car and see if fuse still blows. if not, slowly turn the gain back up to a reasonable level.

Q:I have a 2000 volkswagen new beetle w/ 2.0 liter engine. Earlier today a guy jumped me off and I noticed that he had put the jumper cables on wrong! And immediatly yelled for him to take them off!when my stepdad jumped me off I noticed I could no longer read my speed or gas gauge! So is it more likely a fuse that was blown or the instrument cluster? All info is greatly appreciated thank you !

Hey Jasmin, Well, I think you must've hit the wrong button 'cause your question got posted in the Jeep section not the VW section. But hey, no worries. Most modern cars have a protection circuit that will set off a fuse or some other device to prevent serious damage to the engine computers (and other components) if someone gets their positives mixed up with their negatives when jumping the battery. I would suggest you bring it in to either a highly regarded independent shop specializing in European autos (usually BMW, VW, Mercedes and Volvo) or to the dealership. Depending on the car, you may have no choice but to bring it to the dealership if there is some type of special factory software that needs to be used to repair it. I would check in with an independent shop first tell 'em what happened and what's going wrong and they should be able to send you in the right direction (their shop or the dealership). Just be aware this might cost you some large coin to fix just be ready for that.

Q:And my truck still want start without jumping that wire

Always double check fuses. A poor connections could be the problem but I would be suspicious of the wiring. If the wires run under the truck, make sure they aren't damaged from debris or rubbing on other components. Try jumping at the relay +. If it runs while jumped at relay +, then you know its a problem before the relay (ign switch wiring, fuses, etc)

Q:I have a 30amp fuse that operates my door locks and power seats. I carry around a box of them because sometimes the fuse will last a couple of weeks, or days or hours. Any ideas of an easy fix?

Either you have an intermittent short to ground in the wiring or something on the circuit (motor, for example) is adding resistance and subsequently pulling excessive current because it is binding/starting to fail etc. and causing the circuit to overload and the fuse to pop. Is there anything else on the circuit that you know of? Do the power seats move smoothly and consistently on the tracks? Some cars have several motors that control the power seats so it can get complicated if one of them is the culprit. If it is not in the wiring and a component is causing it it sometimes it is easier to wait for the problematic component to take a sh*t and then just replace it. That's about the best that I can say over a computer. Good luck!

Q:If I were to connect an appliance to something other than an electrical wall outlet for power and that device produced more volts / watts than what my appliance needs to work, would it mess it upand if so how to I control this?

if V I R, you are effectively increasing V while keeping R constant; so I through the device must increase. Power dissipated by the device I^2 R : so by doubling the applied voltage, you'd quadruple the power dissipated by the device. If you're lucky and the components can handle the additional heat dissipation requirement, then nothing will happen except the device will become quite hot to the touch. If the components can't handle the additional heat being generated, the device will burn out. If you're lucky, there is a single fuse or component that will burn out and break the circult; stopping the flow of current. If you're not lucky, then the device could continue to heat up and eventually catch fire. you need to buy/acquire/build a voltage converter/power supply -- something that will take the input voltage and current and output the voltage'/current required by the device. Running 12V electronics from a car lighter socket, you encounter this all the time. The DC adapter basically takes the raw 12.6V and ensures that the voltage/current specification required by the device are met.

Q:I have a power supply that reads 12 volts on the output but when I connect two 12V fans the voltage drops to about 4.5V. What electronic component do I need to replace? Is it a bad capacitor or transistor? Let me know if you need more information.

A diagram of the circuit would give the most information and allow for the best solution. Baring that, a general discussion may help but only a little. 1) All power supplies and circuits have impedance or resistance that is internal. There are no perfect wires, transformers, etc. This means that when you check the open circuit voltage (the voltage when there is no load attached to the power supply) it will read the highest voltage available. Normally when you connect a load, the power supply delivers a current to that load. The current flowing in the circuit will cause a voltage drop along the wires, transformers, coils, capacitors, etc. that causes the voltage at the load to be less than the supply voltage. (I am ignoring the effects of capacitors on a three phase power line here). This may be a small amount of voltage drop or a large amount depending on the size of your power supply and the amount of load current that must be supplied to the load. 2) The power supply must have the necessary capacity to drive the load. For instance you would not be able to use a 10 watt power supply and connect 100 watts of load to it. Based on the above, is the power supply big enough to drive the fans? Did it supply them previously without a problem? If the answer is yes, then there is a problem with the supply that needs to be repaired. The type of supply will make suggesting a repair solution very hard without the diagram or schematic. Look for a partially open circuit or poor connection first. Then look for a failed component. This will depend on the component (fuse, capacitor, transistor, IC, etc.). Wish this could have been better but I just do not have enough information. Hope this helps, Newton1Law What make model refrigerator do you have?