CDLK/CDLKF Immersion Multistage Water Centrifugal Pumps
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 3000 unit/month
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1. Description
CDLK/CDLKF is non-self priming multi-stage centrifugal pump installed with standard motor.The motor shaft is directly connected with the pump shaft through
coupling.According to the requirement,the pump can be equipped with intelligent protector,which effectively protects pump from dry rotation,phase lack,overload etc.In order to meet the requirement of installation depth of the water tank or vessel,it is possible to install cavity body for changing length of the pump.Length for different number of stages is shown in the dimensions & weight table and the table of products supplying scope.
2. Pump Application:
Electric spark
Lathe
Grinding machine
Processing center
Cooling devices
Industrial clearing equipment
Filtering system
3. Performance range
Capacity: Q up to 55 m3/h
Head: H up to 305m
Temperature: T up to 120degreeCelsius
Speed: N 2900/3500rpm
Power: P up to 45kw
4. Standard material
Stainless steel 304 or Stainless steel 316
The pump head and suction & discharge head can be made of cast iron on request too.
5. FAQ
1>. Can I get trained on CNBM products?
Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
2>. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
3>. How long is your warranty?
Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.
- Q:As a fact; I must remove the timing belt in order to remove both camshaft sprockets,then the metal timing belt cover which cover partially the water pump.My main question: Do I have to lift the engine and remove the two water pump studs- Which normally holding the right engine mounting.And where I can rent ,or buy a camshaft locking tool with low price
- Yes, I have done at least 100 of these water pumps. You are correct, remove the timing belt, cam gears and rear cover is the easiest route. I have done them without removing the rear metal shield all the way, and only removing the front cam gear as well. You can remove the front cam gear, and all 6 bolts to the rear shield and shift the cover enough to get the pump out from behind the cover. You shouldn't need to remove the water pump studs, but if you do get a set of stud removers. I bought a set from snap on for around $50 or so years ago. Sears also sells a set. You don't need a cam locking tool. You can make one out of a bar with two bolts through it to stop cam from rotating while you loosen the 17mm nut on the cam gear. I usually just use an impact gun on the bolt, and no tool is needed to hold it. Remember, the 1MZ-FE engine is an interference engine, and the timing belt must be aligned perfectly or the pistons WILL hit valves and engine will self destruct. If you are near ILlinois I can help with repairs if needed.
- Q:My water pump was replaced 3 months ago,but it stopped spraying water yesterday, How do I unclog the intake / Outflow?
- Check and see if the water impeller needs to be replaced. They are only made of rubber. Best of luck.
- Q:i dont think that the water pump is out. i have a 88 evinrude outboard and the other day i noticed that the water was barley trickling out the hose. then it just stopped coming out the hose. it still comes out of the exhaust just fine. the motor is not get hot. is it ok if it still comes out the exhaust/ i will attemp to run a wire up in the hose to see if it is clogged later today. what do yous think
- im guessing the impeller (in a rely of a pair days off) went undesirable, which isn't likely, no longer extremely all that no longer likely. how previous grow to be it? are you interior the habit of cranking the motor without water connected? the two holes are exhaust alleviation ports -- their function is to alleviate rigidity to facilitate commencing, which might fairly be made confusing by using backpressure on the underwater exhaust. lots of the water comes out down via the decrease unit, despite if it is common to be certain water popping out those ports.
- Q:How to determine the pump installation elevation, why should we determine the pump installation elevation?
- Determination of pump installation elevation: the geometric height between the suction well level and the center line of the pump impeller, plus the hydraulic loss of the suction pipe, is the actual installation height of the pump. (notice: if the suction level is higher than the center of the impeller, it should be negative)To determine the water pump installation elevation reasons: general water pump nameplate on the "NPSH" value, the above calculation of the value must be less than this NPSH value, so as to ensure that water pump is not prone to cavitation.[NPSH] - allowable cavitation margin is to determine the conditions of use of the pump cavitation margin.
- Q:My toyota 99 camry stalled and would not start. engine turned over and all lights worked. had the oil changed 3 weeks ago and they told me their was a noise and it might be the water pump. my questions are does this sound like the water pump? Do they usually change the timing belt and is this necessary? is this something that we can do at home? thank-you for any info out their!
- Is the car cranking over just not starting? It doesn't sound like the water pump unless the water was ran hot, that would make it not start back up.
- Q:I installed a circulating pump in the far bathroom, since the length to the water heater made for a long wait. It takes 25 seconds for the hot water to arrive, which means 25 seconds of hot water wasted, once the water is shut off.Is it cheaper to, selectively(2 settings on timer) run the pump, or just wait on the hot water? And without the consideration, that time equals money. I imagine the more people that use it, the more efficient it gets.
- Hot water recirculation for domestic hot water is not so much for efficiency as for instant hot water. It does waste less water, but the hot water pipes should be insulated to minimize heat losses. I would not recirculate hot water into the cold water lines. Lukewarm water is yucky to drink and could be unsafe.
- Q:Submersible pump and self-priming pump which is easy to use?
- Pump generally installed at less than 7 meters from the water surface, if not meet this requirement, have to use submersible pumps, such as deep wells. Submersible pump is obviously not good, easy to malfunction, have to use.Self-priming pump is mainly convenient, but the performance is lower than the general centrifugal pump.There are both advantages and disadvantages at the same time, which is not easy to use.The key is where to use and how many parameters............
- Q:My husband has a 78 t-bird and it has steam comming out of it. He replaced the water-pump 2 to 2 1/2 yrs ago. The warranty was only for 1 year should it need to be replaced this soon?
- Years is the wrong way of looking at it. You should look at in mileage. And it depends on if the replacement was a new or re manufactured. Remans last about 1/3 the time (or mileage) of a new. Be sure to check the entire cooling system and fix the problem. I've seen people replace entire cooling systems ( radiators, water pumps, thermostats) only to find out it was a head gasket.
- Q:I have a 2000 chevy impala with 85K on it. I have heard/a weird rattle noise from under the hood for some time now. I once asked about it on here and got suggestions regarding front end problems. I had that checked out and the front end is good. I still have the rattle noise along with a high pitched, but not very loud, squeeling noise when I accelerate. I am leaking coolant and it seems to be coming from near one of the belts. Is this a bad water pump? If so how expensive of a fix is it and how involved of a repair is it?
- It sounds like a water pump or maybe a loose connection. It is probably time for a water pump if it hasn't been replaced yet. Parts will run under $60 and it probably involves an hour of labor. The Impala is a big car, it shouldn't be hard to get to and remove. Taking it to a shop will run under $100-$150 for everything.
- Q:My water pump is broken and so far we can't get the fan off so we need instructions.
- the fan and fan clutch are bolted to the water pump pully. you have to hold the pully in place and break the torque off of the fan clutch nut. easiest way is to go down to an autozone or wherever and rent a fan clutch removal tool. it'll have a wrench for the nut, and also a large fork that goes over the bolts on the pully.
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CDLK/CDLKF Immersion Multistage Water Centrifugal Pumps
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 3000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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