• CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 3
CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Item specifice

Item:
CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Material:
Stain Steel

CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

 

Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

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Product parameters of Vertical Multistage  Centrifugal Pump

Capacity

up to 250 m3/h  

Head

up to305m

Speed 

up to 3600rpm

Power 

up to 200kw

Voltage

220V to 480V

Temperature range

Within 120 Deg C

 Working pressure

Within 40bar

Application of  Vertical Multistage  Centrifugal Pump

It can be used to convey various medium from tap water to industrial liquid at different temperature and with different flow rate and pressure.

CDL type is applicable to conveying non-corrosive liquid, While CDLF is suitable for slightly corrosive liquid. 

Water supply: Water filter and transport in Waterworks, boosting of main pipeline, boosting in high-rise buildings. 

Industrial boosting: Process flow water system, cleaning system, high-pressure washing system, fire fighting system.

Industrial liquid conveying: Cooling and air-conditioning system, boiler water supply and condensing system, machine-associated purpose, acids and alkali .

Water treatment: Ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system, distillation system, swimming pool, separator.

Irrigation: Farmland irrigation, spray irrigation, dripping irrigation 


Operation Condition of  Vertical Multistage  Centrifugal Pump

Thin, clean, non-flammable and non-explosive liquid containing no solid granules and fibers.

Liquid temperature:

Normal temperature type: -15~+70,

Hot water type: +70~+120

Ambient temperature: Up to +40

Altitude: Up to 1000m 

 

Electric motor of  Vertical Multistage  Centrifugal Pump
Full-enclosed air-blast two-pole standed motor 
Protection class: IP55 
Insulation class: F 
Standard voltage 

 

50Hz: 
1x220230/240V 
3x200220/346380V 
3x220240/380415V 
3x380415V 
60Hz: 
3X200230/346400V 
3x220255/380440V 
3x220227/380480V

 

Picture show of  Vertical Multistage  Centrifugal Pump

CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump



CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump


Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

Trading market

CDL Vertical Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump


Transportation

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Q:What things in my car could the seizing of my water pump cause? As I stated in another question, the power steering went, the red battery light came on and it over heated. The mechanic said it seized and i'm lucky the engine didn't seize. He has to look into it more. I'm just really curious as to what kind of damage i've done and the possibilities! thanks in advance.
Water pumps are items that sometimes wear out. It usually gives an indication before it fails, such as leaking water (coolant), or making a squealing noise (this is the water pump destroying the drive belt). Siezed water pumps lead to overheating, as you experienced, overheating can cause warped heads and/or headgasket pailure, both expensive to fix. Water pumps aren't horribly expensive to fix,usually. Be sure to replace the belt also.
Q:The flow of the pump will be reduced, the speed will change, the power of the motor will change?
1, this pump flow reduction is not the reason for speed. Because it is not matching the motor frequency conversion, the frequency of power supply unchanged, the motor speed will not change.2, the flow of water pump down, the reason may be that the impeller due to cavitation or wear and tear smaller, second, the gap between the impeller housing change, and the impeller plug foreign bodies, and some of the suction port leak.3, it is possible that the whole system resistance increases, so that the work point of the pump left.
Q:What's the difference between a double suction pump and a single suction pump?
From the literal sense to understand, double suction pump is the impeller at both ends of the water inlet, and the single suction pump is from the impeller at one end of the water.Dual suction is mainly used in the process of large flow and low lift. When the pump flow is greater than or equal to 280m3/h, the caliber of 200mm or more, if the use of a single suction pump, then the speed requirements of about 1450rpm in order to achieve the suction requirements. However, if the double suction pump is used, the size and weight of the pump are reduced, and the speed can be increased, the volumetric efficiency is increased, and the reliability of the equipment is improved.Single suction pump, also known as end suction pump, single suction pump flow is relatively small. The same flow, single suction of small size, but the axial force, bearing a large burden. The cost of single suction pump is low, the price is reasonable, widely used, but in many ways it is not as good as double suction pump. If the inlet pressure is higher, the general choice of double suction wheel can be solved. Because the axial force balance of the impeller of the single suction pump is a big problem.
Q:I have a 2000 Dodge Stratus and recently had the coolant drained (not quot;flushedquot;, as the mechanic wanted to charge $125 extra for that). Prior to that time I never had a single coolant leak, but since then, I've had the coolant leak out slowly over about a 2 week period of normal stop go traffic. Now the mechanic is saying the water pump is leaking, and that's going to be another $600+ more to fix (over 5 hrs of labor), which I really don't have the money for right now.So two questions.. 1) what could've happened to cause the water pump to suddenly start leaking only after the coolant was drained, when it was fine before that? and 2) should I try using a quot;Radiator Stop Leakproduct? I know people say they can plug up the whole radiator, but if that were the case 100% of the time, you'd think these products would've been made illegal a long time ago.SO realistically what are the chances of it doing more harm than good? I still plan on getting the water pump replaced, it'll just have to be awhile.
Realistcally you have a 10 year old car, so your water pump has used up its life sorry. Stop leak products are usually a fine powdered aluminum/epoxy mix and NO they won't fix a water pump seal. Old stop leak products were actually better but used asbestos as a leak fix, so the government banned its use. My advice, is to shop around a bit for another price, as it does sound pretty steep. Sorry about your problem. Please remember anti freeze can go quickly, so don't risk an engine overheat at a bad time, carry 2 gallons of spare coolant
Q:I have a leak on the front of the engine by the timing belt housing coming out of a small hole by the alternator. I assume it is a leaking water pump. How do to go about changing the water pump?Short clip of actual leak coming from the hole by the alternator and under the timing belt housing
water pump is timing belt driven, so you have to pull all of the belts off, the timing belt cover and that belt also. if that belt has not been replaced in 80,000 miles. you want to do that. i had a 93 civic and a 90 civic that i did the belt and pump in at 230,000 miles. it takes a little time but it is not that bad. the harmonic balancer has to come off for the timing belt also.
Q:i want to change the water pump on my on a 70 hp (70C) nissan outboard motor and i never pulled a lower unit, not sure what to expect thanks for any help
((( get a manual))) like has been said ..but here is some genneral proceedure::::// after loosening the gear case at the cavitation plate ,,,, pull it away from the leg about half an inch and acsess the gear linkage shift rod and undo the conecting nut,, then pull the gear housing away --- ((( when you reinstal it you will have to turn the propelor by hand to push the drive shaft spline into place ))) --<- then you will have the pump housing on the gear caseing .. just pull it off the shaft retaining the small key way that turns the impelor.. ::::::: replace the impelor and push the pump housing down over the impelor..,,,, as you push it down,, turn the propelor by hand so the shaft rotates and make the fins on the impellor bend away from the shaft ,,, make sure the shaft is turning the correct way ,,with the gear in foward ,, turn the propelor so it drives foward or if in reverse turn the propelor so its driving backwards ,,, there should be a gasket between the pump housing and the gear caseing,, if not ,, use some silastic ,,, ((check the manual)) <<<<<<<<<<<<
Q:does water pump sealers work?
If your talking about the water pump for a car it doesn't have any pumps those would be the radiator pumps that are connected to the water pump and transmission which keeps the radiator and transmission at a temperature that keeps the vehicle from over heating. If you have a overheating car and a mechanic told you your water pump has a leak then sorry you would have to replace the water pump but just don't go to a popular mechanic for that because it can get really expensive do your research and find you someone with a garage it cheaper because the part itself is not that expensive it putting it in that cost lol. Hope this helps.
Q:How do I check my well water pumping system to see if there is a leak? I have terrible rusty water.
The radiator surely holds the water/coolant and the pump circulates the mixture via the engine. Upon returning to the radiator, the water is cooled from air passing via the fins of the radiator. The pumps job is to flow the mixture to verify that the nice and comfortable water to relax subsequently, the engine is then cooled.
Q:i know a little bout cars always fixed my own since day one but this is the first car i have ever had/workd on with a internal water but thats driven off timeing chain my cars running hot and its holding prusser so i know its not radator or hoses but i need to know a way to check and make sure its the water pump befor i go tearing the engine apart
In the olden days when the fan was attached to the front of the water pump,you could hold the fan by either side and see if it moves at all.If theres movement of the shaft then that usually means the bearings are worn.The more it moves the worse it is.Not much help if you got thermo fans though.
Q:House has bad mains pressure, so previous owner installed a quot;Holding Tankwhich stores water from the mains, before pumping it into the house for the internal tanks.However, after some recent plumbing work when the mains was turned off, it's running a little weird. The pump seems to be constantly running, although at a very low level, and some times when the taps/fawcets are opened, they seems to be nothing for up to 30 seconds (only air), and then the water rushes out. Same thing for toilet/WC cisterns..Any advice/pointers appreciated.CheersJM
If you are using a standard well pump, then there should be a check valve in the pipe between the holding tank and the pump. In a well it will be a foot valve, but may also have been a simple check valve. The work on your mains may have introduced dirt into the valve and prevents if from sealing and maintaining the pressure in the system when the pump stops. Someone also suggested that the pressure tank (not the holding tank) associated with the pump has become water logged. If that is the case then a small volume of water coming out of the pressure tank will cause a large enough pressure change to keep the pump working. Last possibility, there has to be a sensor that determines that the level of the water in the holding tank is low and will turn on the mains supply and when the level gets high enough that the mains supply is turned off. This can be a pressure switch or a mercury switch similar to one with a sump pump, etc. So my suggestions are: Check to make sure that the holding tank is clean and there is no sediment in it. Check to make sure that the holding tank fills when the water level drops, (it appears to stop when it is full). If you do this next procedure, make sure that you know how to prime your pump. I would also turn off the hot water tank. If it is a foot valve, remove the foot valve by removing the clamp and then back wash it to clean out the dirt. If it is an in-line check valve then remove the pipe. between the pump and the holding tank and invert it, and run water through it to clean out any sediment, then replace the pipe. Drain the pressure tank, and if you can pump some air into it. Then make sure that everything is connected, prime the pump and turn it on. Make sure that everything is working, then at each tap, especially the hot water taps, turn them on and leave running until the water flows smoothly. When all of the air is out of the system then turn on the hot water tank.

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