CDCK8　AC contactor

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Applicable Range

CDCK8 AC contactor (hereinafter called contactor) is designed for circuit of AC 50Hz or 60Hz, rated operating voltage 220V,rated operating current 30A, used to make and break the circuit in motor of refrigeration compressor.

Applicable standard

National Standard : GB 14048.4 GB 17885
International Standard: IEC 60947-4-1 IEC 1095

Normal usage and mounting conditions

1. Ambient temperature: it works within -18℃～+50℃, and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24hours.
2.Altitude no more than 2000m.
3.Class of pollution: Class 3.
4.Installation condition: Class III.
5.The inclined angle between the mounting surface and the vertical surface no more than ±5℃.
6.Where there is no shake, compact and vibration.
7.Location without rain or snow.

Technical Parameters

Construction Features

1. Contactor is stereo and double breakpoint. Contact adopts silver base alloy, magnetic system adopts E type iron core, armature iron adopts electric and blunt iron.
2. Main circuit of contactor designed for two types: insertion connection and screw connection while coil adopts insertion connection with convenience and reliability.
3. Main circuit has 2NO or 1NO and 1NC.
4. Characteristic is compact, low power consumption, durable, convenient and reliable.

Outline and Installation Dimensions

Q:I tried to add a new radio to it. The wires touched each other, a spark. I tried to fix the fuses. I take one out while the car is on. And I try to start the car without the fuse. I did replace the fuse. The Turn signals still dont work, and neither does the dashboard light up. Why is that?: you blew a fuse. anytime you work with electronics on the car disconnect the negative on your battery. first rule or else you end up in your situation.

Q:I have a 400w/1000w dc to ac power inverter. Every time I power it on, the 40A fuse blows even with no load. I tried a direct connection to the battery and it still blows. If anyone has an idea how to fix this please tell me.400w continuous 1000w peakinput: 12vdcoutput: 110vac@60hz: Either you wired the inverter incorrectly, or the inverter has an internal fault. In the second case, it isn't worth repairing. Replacing the inverter costs less than FINDING the fault.

Q:All the relays are replaced and all the fuses have been tested. The boo switch has also been replaced.where the hell do I begin?: Your brake lights not working is the reason it won't come out of park. Some of the newer vehicles have more than one fuse box. Mine has one under the back seat and one under the hood. The owners manual is the first place to start. Make sure ALL the fuses are good. You'll need a test light, check for power at your brake light switch, located on the brake pedal under the dash. Then check to see if you have power at the other end of the switch when the pedal is depressed. A lot of times, it is this switch that goes bad or just gets knocked around. If you have power on both sides of this switch, then you move on to the bitsy solenoid. I'd need more information to tell you where it is on your van, but try checking the brake light switch first. Good luck!

Q:I have a 1999 ford escort station wagon 4-cylinder 2 liter engine. i had a problem with the fuse that powers my dash lights and tail lights frying and the wirring to my ASl component are fried. now whenever i touch my brakes it blows multiple fuses so that my transmission locks up,my engine shuts off and will not start back up without new fuses. could my ASL component cause all of this to happen or is it the cars main computer messing up?: Sounds like a loom problem (wiring) , you could start by tracing the wiring back from the tail lights and look for any broken wiring and any wiring that should b bolted to the chassis. Hope this helps

Q:i have a 150cc 4-stroke scooter , At first it was starting fine but over time the stator fryed and hade to be replaced and after replacing it did not give any spark. so i tried changing the cdi and ignition coil . AND STILL NO SPARK any advice?: I've Got the same problem (it's a go kart, but it's a gy6 150cc, same set up and pieces as scooter). What did the issue ended up being on yours?

Q:I unplugged an air freshner from my lighter. Immediatly after I noticed my lighter, dome light, power antenna, rear defrost, key in ignition chime and the lights at the bottom of the doors didn't work anymore. I switched all fuses in fuse box with new ones and the same components still didn't work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!: A Fuse it that simple one fuse power many thing it only cost like a dollar to but and 1 min to change so good luck

Q:Hi I have a LG motion from Metro PCS. A fuse popped when I had my phone plugged into the charger. It seems to be loading slower, but still turns on. Is their a sure fire way to tell if their has been any electrical damage? thanks.: Damage from a blown fuse would make the phone not work at all - phones are computers, and when a part in a computer gets burned out, it just kills the whole thing (or a whole major component, like the screen, or sound, etc.). The fact that it's slower is just coincidence, and may only be you imagining things because you're worried.

Q:Does anyone have a picture layout of the fuse box on a beretta z26 and which components they power. I got the repair manual and it doesn't have it in there. The fuse box cover is gone so its not there. I look on the internet and still find nothing about what fuses go to what components. I believe a have a short in something that is causing charging problems. But i can not find any where the fuse layout or diagram for this f****** car anywhere! I had a problem with this a few months ago and tested the alternator and it's good. It was a fuse problem then. This time ive tested the alternator by the manual instructions and it tested good. Everything points to a short somewhere. But still no charging and no clue what to try next.: Go to a wrecking yard and get a fuse box cover. You can also test your system yourself for a short or parasitic draw. First, shut off all the car's lights and accessories then close all the doors. With the battery in the car, first remove the negative battery terminal. Now, using a multimeter set to the DC volts scale put one probe on the negative terminal of the battery and the other probe to ground. Read the meter. If you read more than about a quarter of a volt, you have a draw somewhere. Troubleshoot the draw by having someone remove fuses one at a time until you see the meter voltage drop. When you see the voltage drop, you’ve found the circuit in which you have a power drain. Thoroughly examine that circuit, area by area, until you locate the reason for the voltage drop. Isolate and repair the problem. If this doesn't fix the problem, take extra care for a few days and see that all the lights are off before you walk away from the car for the evening. It could be something so simple as a door that hasn't closed fully, causing an interior light to remain on overnight or maybe a bad switch on an under hood or trunk light. Any of those are more than enough to do the job. I've done it myself, more than once. Usually, a full battery charge will take care of it. Even a jump start and running the car for an hour or so should build your battery up enough to get you going again as long as your alternator is doing its job.

Q:I was restarting my computer, and it started buzzing.It was coming from the mobo speaker, and now it won't turn on.On the front of it, the 3 and 4 lights are lit up.Can anyone help me?: Hi I also heard same buzzing sound from CPU's speaker when I replaced its ram Well, after that, the motherboard was bearned I hope this is not the case with you Try this Open the CPU, clean the fans and dust from all the hardwares Its possible that the fans needs some cleaning, and the motherboard is heating up, which is stopping your computer to boot up

Q:Hey i just bought a van for travling and i was wondering what can i run off a 12 volt power point?? kettle ' fan ect.: you should be able to run anything that does not exceed the amperage rating of the fuse for the power point this is usually about 10-15 amps, depending on the vehicle and what other components this fuse controls. If we consider that wattsvoltage x current that means that you should be fine with anything that is rated at under 120-180 watts or a combination of things (using a splitter) totaling less than that. Find the fuse that controls your power power point, and look at its amperage rating. I would assume that this fuse also controls other components as well (dome lights, etc.). Multiply its amperage by twleve and that is the MAXIMUM number of watts that can be used on that circuit. Since this represents the maximum number of amps possible on the circuit (and probably would result in a blown fuse) dont pick an appliance that matches the wattage number you calculate or you will overload the circuit and blow a fuse. Other than that you can use just about anything that meets these requirements.

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