• Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump System 3
Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump

Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Item specifice

Item:
Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Material:
Cast Iron

Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump 


Description of Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump 

CDL/CDLF is a kind of vertical nonself priming multistage centrifugal pump, which is driven by a standard electric motor.

The motor output shaft directly connects with the pump shaft through a coupling. 

The pressureresistant cylinder and flow passage components are fixed between pump head and inand outlet section with tiebar bolts. The inlet and outlet are located at the pump bottom at the same plane.

This kind of pump can be equipped with an intelligent protector to effectively prevent it from dry-running, out-of-phase and overload. 

 

Product Parameters of Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump 


Capacity

up to 250 m3/h  

Head

up to305m

Speed 

up to 3600rpm

Power 

up to 200kw

Voltage

220V to 480V

Temperature range

Within 120 Deg C

 Working pressure

Within 40bar


Application of Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump 

It can be used to convey various medium from tap water to industrial liquid at different temperature and with different flow rate and pressure.

 CDL type is applicable to conveying non-corrosive liquid, While CDLF is suitable for slightly corrosive liquid. 

Water supply: Water filter and transport in Waterworks, boosting of main pipeline, boosting in high-rise buildings. 

Industrial boosting: Process flow water system, cleaning system, high-pressure washing system, fire fighting system.

Industrial liquid conveying: Cooling and air-conditioning system, boiler water supply and condensing system, machine-associated purpose, acids and alkali .

Water treatment: Ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system, distillation system, swimming pool, separator.

Irrigation: Farmland irrigation, spray irrigation, dripping irrigation 


Operation Condition 

Thin, clean, non-flammable and non-explosive liquid containing no solid granules and fibers. 

Liquid temperature: 

Normal temperature type: -15~+70, 

Hot water type: +70~+120 

Ambient temperature: Up to +40 

Altitude: Up to 1000m 

 

Electric motor 
Full-enclosed air-blast two-pole standed motor 
Protection class: IP55 
Insulation class: F 
Standard voltage 

 

50Hz: 
1x220230/240V 
3x200220/346380V 
3x220240/380415V 
3x380415V 
60Hz: 
3X200230/346400V 
3x220255/380440V 
3x220227/380480V

 

Pictures show

Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump


Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump


Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump



Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

Trading market

Cast Iron Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump


 

Transportation


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Q:The water hose hooks from the radiator to the water pump. Does an o-ring go in it? What else could be causing it to leak?
Hello, okorder . Watch The Video! You will be glad you did! Thanks for your time! BimmerFix Products Co. Tucson, Arizona, USA
Q:I have coolant leaking out and i'm pretty sure now that it is the water pump. Question can water pumps leak even if the cars not running?Like a steady drip every two seconds? Forming a decent puddle after awhile, but when running the pump is'nt making any abnormal noises is that normal? Is there other clues to positively know the pump is bad? I cant believe how hard a job it looks like it would be to replace it there is no room! Anybody with some helpful how to's? how about an estimate on how much a shop would charge to do it?
Go to parts store get CHILTONS manual for your car. Make sure your problem is in book. Chiltons, other books not as good. Local library may have book. Biggest problem is ,usually, find the proper bolts to remove. Not too big a chore really. Be sure all old gasket material is removed from the engine where the new pump wiil seal. Do not turn the water pump shaft on the new pump any more than necessary, they have a mechanical seal that can be damaged. Probably a four hour job for the inexperienced. If it's necessary to pull radiator the book will tell you, that would add a couple hours.
Q:ok so i have a crack in my radiator a small crack but anyways yesterday it caused my car to over heat. i normally keep coolant in the car but it just got low and over heated pretty bad. so today the car is making a really loud annoying noise. coolant is also draining out of the bottom of the engine when the car is on. at a pretty good pace. it is coming out like right under the belt area so my friend said it is probably the water pump baring and he said it could have gotten damaged when it over heated. so i think these symptoms def point to the water pump. anyways i called a mechanic and he said that he had to change the belt to and he said he had to charge me $385. what you guys think. does he need to change the pump and the belt or just the pump? and is $385 a rip off or is that the going rate? thank you all for your knowledgeand information
That water pump is driven by the timing belt. Usually when you do a timing belt or water pump it makes sense to change both now because they are both difficult to get to and you have to take off the same things for both. $385 is a bad price If you want to look smart about it, ask him to look at and check the seals, all he would be able to tell you is if they are leaking, if they are, ask him how much more. It's all worth it if the car is still good. We just did that on a friend's '91 and her's overheated a few times. She ha 235,000 miles.
Q:Alright,I happen to be the only man in the house and the plumbing is a bit faulty. You see,the machine has been filled with water as necessary and was ignited. It sounds perfectly fine and you can feel water run through the pipes connected to it, when touched. But it's been an hour now and the taps are not producing water. Please can anyone help? Under normal circumstances,there should be enough water now but the taps are all empty despite the water running through the pipes. What can I do? Please help. I filled it with even more water and there's no result. Help please. Thank you.
not knowing the specific system, prolly correct. pipe frozen and what you feel is just bypass/recirc. as the water has no where to go. or there's an external leak somewhere under the house? keep doing that, depending on the system, and it's condition, might burn up a pump. many different kinds of systems. for a house or motor home, usually have one that's pressure activated. that is, pressure drops as a tap is opened, regualator sees that, starts the pump running. that would be a system that employs a reservoir. probably air charged. to sense pressure drops.a nd max pressures to shut the system off. but that may not be what you have. many different configs. USAF trained hyd/pneu tech. glorified plumber i guess.
Q:mercury 9.8hp.installed a new water pump impeller and still no water circulating through engine. no blockage anywhere. now what??? i`m stumped at this point.
This engine has a hose that discharges a small stream of water when running. But most of the water is discharged through the center of the prop. It's not uncommon for this hose to plug from small bits of sand and mud. a small wire can unplug it. If the thermostat is stuck this might cause what your describing, but it's rare. Is it possible that the little round drive pin that goes between the impeller and the drive-shaft, broke or came out during assembly? Or the guide tube in the lower leg (intermediate housing) is not in place of blocked. Sometimes the sleeve that seals this gets crumpled under during installation and can block the flow. My recommendation is to disassemble and check each step until you've found the problem, or satisfied your self that everything is right.
Q:Home water well is artesian, to holding tank. I am needing to replace my pump yearly. Inside of the pump is rusted, this causing a real loud whining sound before failure. Pump motor isn't failing, the inside of the pump ends up freezing loosing the ability to spin.Any suggestions as to why?
that's a vague description of the pump. theres several types of pumps too. you need to either shield the pump, or move it to a different location, so its nots moist and damp all the time. drop a sand point down to the well, seal the well from the pump , or buy a different type. call a well service and ask them your options. good luck man! gee, that must get expensive.
Q:I have some black RTV silicone that I got with a gasket for my oil pan. Can I use some on a gasket for a water pump instead of regular sealant or is there a particular type I need? If there is a certain or preferred type please give me a link to it at like autozone or something, thanks!
there are a few color gaskets such as red, blue, orange and black. If you have black you pretty much can use black on any part or gasket that needs replacing so you are fine using your black rtv on your water pump. Black and red are the best rtv and can replace anything an orange or blue gasket can do and more.
Q:Mechanic really could not locate the origin of the leak but says the water pump needs to be replaced and says it's a lot of work and would cost $350. How can the origin of the leak be determined. He used a pump and raised the pressure on the radiator but that didn't reveal anything either. Please help.
Water pumps should be replaced every 60K miles and the timing belt should be done at the same time. If your water pump hasn't been replaced in that long or longer I'd blame it having shaft play for your leak. The water pump is in the same area as the belts so it's definitely the most likely culprit.
Q:I have a 2000 Ford Focus with 82k miles on it. The car is leaking coolant intermittently. The radiator was replaced about 3 yrs ago. The car doesn't overheat but when I turn it off I can hear a boiling sound and it smells like something is burning. It's not a strong smell but it's there. The car also idles rough and downright shakes at times. Also, and I know this sounds crazy, when I'm driving it I hear a sort of whooshing noise that sounds like water. Could this be the water pump or something more serious? I'm taking it to the mechanic tomorrow but would like an idea as to what could be wrong.
She should have not drove it. Sounds like it overheated and seized the engine. Probably cracked the heads or block. This could have coated her a car.
Q:What's the function of the engine pump?
The function of the water pump is to pressurize the coolant, and ensure that it circulates in the cooling system. Generally speaking, the water circulates continuously through the radiator, engine block and parts. Take away heat.. Ensure that the engine is not high temperature

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