• Carbon Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers System 1
  • Carbon Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers System 2
  • Carbon Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers System 3
Carbon Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers

Carbon Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers

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Loading Port:
Dalian
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
10000 pc/month

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Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers

Features standards and products of our Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers:

Features of Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers:

1.       High class materials

Our products only use high class raw materials of carbon/alloy steel pipes made from NKK or MANNESSMANN equipment for ordinary, high pressure, low/high temperature,boiler and other purposes.

2.       Uniform wall thickness and perfectly round

This can be achieved by our particular technical knowhow and our quality control program.

3.       Accurate dimension

Efficient piping work can be made only with fittings of correct dimensions and shapes. Our fittings are finished to have accurate straight/ plane ends, beveled angle...etc. to applicable standards by means of two or three spindle beveling machines.

Standards of Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers:

Our welding fittings are manufactured in compliance with the following appliance standards:

ASME B16.9   ASTM A234   MSS-SP43   WPHY60   JIS B2311   DIN2605

                      ASTM A403   MSS-SP75   WPHY65   JIS B2312   DIN2606

                      ASTM A420   WPHY42    WPHY70   JIS B2313   DIN2616

                      ASTM A860   WPHY52                                       DIN2615

Manufacturing method and process of Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers:

Carbon Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers

 

BUTT-WELD FITTINGS   ASME B16.9/MSS SP-75

Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers:


Carbon Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers

Carbon Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers





Packing of Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers:

Carbon Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers

FAQ of Butt-Welding Eccentric Reducers:

1) Q: What’s your main product? Which kinds of products are more competitive in your product range?

     A: Our main products are steel flanges, pipe fittings and steel pipes.

     Competitive Items: flanges in stainless steel, carbon steel, alloy steel  and punching carbon steel

     Butt welded pipe fittings in stainless and carbon steel

2) Q: what’s your largest size of flange and fitting? How long is the  production cycle?
      A: The largest flange we could produce is 80’’ and the largest fitting is 50’’.

      In general, we spend 20-25 days in a 20-ton order. If necessary, we  could make it shorter.

3) Q: Could you produce according to the drawings?

     A: Sure. We could produce according to the provided drawings, which  include forged and casted items.

4) Q: What kind of certificates do you have?

     A: We have ISO, TUV, API,SGS,BV etc. fittings in stainless and carbon stee

     Malleable Iron ,Stainless and carbon steel pipes


Q:how do you clean your mouse etc.?
a shower and piping and fittings.. If you can get access to the back of the wall from a closet its a simple job. You can put an plastic access panel to cover your hole. If you have to rip off tiles or cut a hole in the middle of your bedroom wall it can turn into a project.
Q:What do you mean by the next connection in the pipe connection? How do you use it?
The professional name is only wearing a joint pipe through the wall, using a splint or interlayer
Q:I am using Avery (product number 18660) address labels and I am doing everything right in Word 2007 in order to print them out. Once I start printing them, the addresses print all the way towards the top and they shouldn't be. The margins are already set correctly because when I printed it on regular white paper, it did so correctly. WHY IS IT DOING THIS?! Let me know what I can do to fix this. THANKS!!!
The proper fittings to use on underground copper water lines are called flaired fittings. The underground 3/4 pipe is Type K or L soft copper. Flaired fittings are heavy duty brass mechanical fittings and are used on tight offsets like yours. This take skills and tools you might not possess. Break up the concrete, expose pipe, and dig out dirt to new location. Remove dirt so plumber can cut pipe and use wrenches on new fittings. The main water supply will have to be shut- off at the street and it would be wise to install a new main shut off valve also. Tell the plumber to put armaflex pipe insulation around pipe at concrete floor level for protection. Ohio code doesnt allow soft solder on underground fittings.
Q:I have a brand new 3 ton unit. (house 1350 sq ft) I had all my duct work replaced. Both inside and outside units run but my house is very hot. There is R 30 insulation in the attic, too. I need to be cool and stop wasting electricity. Help please.
FireTruck, Firehydrants(some), sharpie, post it, apple, ipod, red cross van, pillow, phone, headphones, lights
Q:I think OSHA would require safety goggles around those things..
Depends on what the old pipes look like inside, if they are not corroded too badly, I would stick with the galvanized. Copper would be my 1 choice but unless you're going to replumb the whole house, there's no real need for the copper. However if you put just enough copper hanging down thru the floor you can convert the rest of the house at a later time without having to disturb your new wall. As an experienced handyman I would not suggest pex for anything in an unaccessible area, it tends to leak, unless you have the kit that actually thermally welds the fittings.
Q:I'm a guy and need some damn good reliable clothes for work.so boots : any suggested sites to buy from (military (must be actual military! or safety boots brand?)Trousers need good work trousers tough and comfy! (not the crappy 'pretend style jeans')Shirts must be comfy and breathable t shirts the sort that do not shrink to x small (I am aprox L xL but xxl is good too)so brands and/or sites and please non of the 'lets pretend to make clothes and call it army/tough workmanclothes' you know the sorts, they are everwhere and get on my rugged hairy man **** .
things that can fit and be removed like pelmets
Q:What are the types of tubing and pipe couplings applicable to each occasion?
According to connection tubing and pipe joints, pipe joints are welded, sleeve type, expanding type, press type form; pipe joints each form, according to the channel number and direction of joint points straight, rectangular, three other types; threaded connection and flange connection with the connection of the body. In addition, there are some special purpose pipe couplings.
Q:No Legendary fire types I can get any fire type the rest of my team: Milotic Hydreigon Archeops Conkeldurr Gardevoir
I more like a fire hydrant that's been hit by a car.
Q:Do you need adhesive for the sleeve joint of PVC wire pipe?
It is, in theory, but very rarely used. Wiring can be done without adhesive.
Q:Now that NBC fired that liar Brian Williams, should FOX follow suit and fire its entire lying broadcast staff?
I have a suggestion but first let me shoot down some of the other idea's with the fact that in cold weather you ALWAYS need access to pipes and fittings. Heat tape-no, the electrical in heat tape goes bad and you will have no easy way to repair. Crawlspace- even if heated, you said there will be no access Ceiling running down- no, there is no heat in the ceiling and the lines would need to be exposed in the bathroom. Cold air return-maybe but again, no access I'm assuming this schoolhouse has a basement, most do, and your best option would be to build a secondary partition wall on the same wall as the addition to hide the plumbing and run it into from the basement. Essentially just poking through the now exterior wall and the new addition wall from inside the new fake exterior wall . It sounds like you need a H C for the washer, a H C for a vanity sink and a C for the toilet? Obviously the best thing would be to make as few penetrations as possible so use 3/4 copper for the sink, run flex hose or tubing for toilet and run two exposed lines from the vanity THROUGH(vanity) the side onto the wall(exposed) for the washer. I'm kind of guessing here as I'm not able to see the layout. If you're willing to make 4 penetrationsgo for it. The toilet only needs to be hose or tubing, make sure you put a separate valve in for it. The drains shouldn't matter, they are drains. As long as the traps are in a warm area and the lines are pitched well. Old houses suck. ADDITION existing exterior wall Plumbing ( H 0 C 0 H 0 C 0 ) from basement __newwall_____________________________

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