Calcium Silicate Board High Quality Partition Wall

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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Item specifice:

Thickness: 5mm,8mm,9mm,6mm Wildth: 20cm,25cm,30cm Fonction: Fireproof Board Ceiling,Soundproof Ceiling,Normal Ceiling
Color: Gray Application: Office,Hotel,Household,Dust Free Room,Public Certification: CIS
Shape: Irregular,Rectangle,Square,Grille Material: cemnet

Product Description:

(Raw materials: pure quartz powder, quick lime, calcium silicate, plant fiber and many fined mineral stuffing including dispersant and additive) into a wet sheet and then through high temperature and high pressure autoclave for more than 10 hours by advanced technology. That it will compose a special calcium silicate board. There is no asbestos, brucite and meerschaum in the raw materials and the formulations at all.


Product Applications:


1.Indoor ceiling of industrial and resident building.

2.Partition of industrial and resident building.

3.The ceiling and partition of the bathroom and other wet condition building.

4.Indoor ceiling and partition as base board of the decoration for operation room,clean room of hospital or laboratory .

5.The fireproof board of the air passage.

6.Furniture or furniture's accessories.


Product Advantages:

1. 100% asbestos free, environmentally friendly

2. Non-combustible Class A, does not release poisonous gas.When in contact with fire, smoke index is zero.

3. Light weight and high intensity, helps reduce the cost of building Based on stone crystal, best stability and not affected from temperature.

4. Good performance in heat preservation and insulation mildew proof and moth proof.
5. 100% asbestos free

6.Low thermal conductivity
7.Good compression strength

Main Product Features:


100% asbestos-free

Product composition: Portland cement, highly pure quartz sand, cellulose fiber

Density: 1.1-1.4 g/cm3

Water absorption: ≤30%

Moisture interference degree: 0.27mm

Moisture content:  ≤10%

Swelling: ≤0.25%

Dry shrinkage rate: 0.5%

Impact resistance: ≥2.0 KJ/m2

Flexural resistance: ≥12 KJ/m2

Thermal conductivity:  ≤0.2 W(M.K)

Screw-pull force: ≥75 N/mm

Frost resistance: After 25 freeze-thaw cycles without rupture and layer phenomena.



Product Specifications:

Calcium Silicate Board   High Quality   Partition Wall

 

FAQ:

•Q: How to calculate product transportation cost?

A:  According to the  products weight or volume, according to the logistics company quotation.

•Q: Do you provide free sample? And how many days it will take?

A: Yes, we can provide free sample, of course it is better if you would like to pay the courier charge.

•Q: What's our price?

A: We provide resonable quotation.

•Q: How about our quality?

A: We provide international quality.

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Calcium Silicate Board   High Quality   Partition Wall

Calcium Silicate Board   High Quality   Partition Wall

Calcium Silicate Board   High Quality   Partition Wall

 

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Q:Toilet decoration with light steel keel gypsum board vertical wall. What can be done with a hanging brick?
Like can not be hung, will be out of the toilet wall is easy to moisture should not use gypsum board wall.
Q:breaking cement blocks?
density. wood is long strands of thick, dense fiber essentially strung together, cement is a mix of individual rocks with a water/concrete bonding, but there is air mixed in during the mixing process. there are more areas in between the rocks to be weaker, less dense. this may be a bad example.. but liken it to a bathtub with water that is iced over completely, and a bathtub with only ice water.. in between the ice, you can put your hand through, because it is essentially water and less dense than the ice... but with the completely covered ice water, you cannot easily put your hand through.. . i guess also i was thinking of a game of red rover if you have ever played it, it is easier to run through when the other team is holding hands, than when they link elbows.. essentially making the bond stronger with bigger parts of the arm.
Q:How to choose their own materials made of steel structure compartment?
First span a bit large, if not set up columns, then the second floor will not pile things, otherwise the consequences are very serious. 5.7 meters high, if there is no steel column, then the main beam must also be the smallest HN300 * 150, times beam election [12 Well, hidden in the main beam between the upper and lower flange plate, do a good job after the surface layer A little bit on the line.
Q:how do i install stone veneer over cement board?
the instructions you get with whatever stone you decide on will explain it in detail...usually mesh with a base coat and then a bonding layer and then the pointing if it is a mortared joint...
Q:What is the easiest way to put down cement backer board prior to laying ceramic floor tile?
I've done it. And The kind of screws you need are not so specialized. Simple drywall screws. About 5 to 8 bucks for a box depending on their length. Now since you say you have no intention of pulling up the old vinyl flooring, and that the subflooring is plywood, I would seriously reconsider. If you are doing it this way out of sheer laziness, then dont do it at all. Also, why are you using cement backerboard for a floor? This is normally used in areas that will constantly be wet, such as a shower wall, steam room, etc. For the floor, and take it from me as I have done this before, and have worked with pros doing this as well. Rip out the vinyl flooring. Its extra work, but hey, do it right the first time not half... well you get the picture. Then once you have that done, you are left with the bare subfloor, typically Plywood or Particle board. Check to see if it is level first, if this is a new house, check to see if it is level anyways. Now, lay down over lapping layers of roofing paper. They should be overlapped by 4 inches. Nail them in place, dont glue or screw it down. Now that you have a good surface to start with, you can now begin your prep work for laying down your tile. Ok, so now you are probably asking, well, why not just leave the vinyl tile under it all, whats the difference. Well, right now, you may not think that it is, but later on you will. The thickness of that tile, plus the cement backerboard, or roofing paper will not transition decently into your adjacent rooms, and it will not look good. And yes, it will make a big difference. If you have any questions on how to go about laying the tile down, any tips, etc... feel free to ask.
Q:Do you use spackling or thinset to seal the seams between cement board and the ceiling?
Youve got the right idea. It's called sanded caulk and it should be available in a color that matches your grout. Just be sure the bottom of your backer board is inside the lip of the tub and 1/4 above it so it won't wik moisture. As far as the why, it's mainly cosmetic. Good luck
Q:Using cement board outside?
u could thin set the concrete board but u would be better to redo the slap to what is needed and then tile it , cement work is not difficult , Im sure u can get pointers from the big box store or local hardware, good luck !!!
Q:How to do noise insulation how to deal with wall noise
I am the northeast, due to geographical differences, it is recommended that you still consult the local carpentry, the best way to deal with noise!
Q:Decoration works: 1 cm thick cement pressure plate seal cylinder how much money a square meter, who knows ah
Cement pressure board is a 48 up and down 2.8 square, artificial 26 / square + auxiliary material 15 up and down, the total price of about 55-70
Q:is there a cinderblock or cement anchor that will hold lots of weight? 200 lbs plus?
The blocks themselves are designed to carry a deadload from top to bottom. The walls of your blocks are to thin to carry any outward pressure, like you bouncing on it. I wouldn't trust cinder blocks to hold wall anchors. If you try to hammer-drill the middle of a cinder block, it will shatter. Anchor your boards vertically to the wall so that the floor is carrying any downward force. It would be best to install a deadman board to the ceiling joists which would hold your vertical boards tight to the wall. Anchors in the mortar joints would assist to carry the load more than anything else. Big fat toggle bolts would suffice in the application I described here. Edit, Use expansion bolts, or PL400 construction adhesive with concrete nails to secure wood to the floor. It also occours to me, you could just frame up a stud wall in front of the block wall. Anchor it to the floor with glue and nails, or expansion bolts, and nail it to the ceiling joists up top.

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