• Bronze Body Hot Water Circulation Pump, Drinking Water Small Inline Pump System 1
  • Bronze Body Hot Water Circulation Pump, Drinking Water Small Inline Pump System 2
  • Bronze Body Hot Water Circulation Pump, Drinking Water Small Inline Pump System 3
Bronze Body Hot Water Circulation Pump, Drinking Water Small Inline Pump

Bronze Body Hot Water Circulation Pump, Drinking Water Small Inline Pump

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Loading Port:
Ningbo
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 set/month

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Specifications

circulator pump, wet rotor type, 304S.S.
no noise <45dB(A), no leakage, environment friendly, easy installation

Domestic speed control (3-speed) Circulation pump bronze body

This circulation pump especially designed for heating system and used to supply water

and add pressure for mansions of city,villa of subarb,house,to match with industrial equipment,

to supply water in cycle for cooling air-condition,boiler and solar energy,suppy hot andwater and keep warm cycle.

Construction Material

  • Motor wire:copper

  • Motor shell: aluminium

  • Rotor can: stainless steel 304

  • Impeller: PP

  • Pump body: cast iron

  • Shaft: ceramic/S,S

  • Bear: ceramic/graphite

Technical Data

  • Liquid temperature range: -10 - 110°C

  • Pipe size: G11/4", DN20mm

  • Port to port length: 150mm

  • Max. operating pressure: 10bar

  • Pressure stage, pipe connection: PN10

Electrical Data

  • Input power(speed 1):46W

  • Input power(speed 2):67W

  • Max input power.: 100W

  • Mains frequency: 50/60Hz

  • Rated voltage: 110/220V

  • Max. current: 0.4A

  • Capacitor size: 3uf

  • Max flow:65l/min

  • Max head:6m


Q:My friends car is a 1997 jeep wrangler. The belt broke and she took it in to get it replaced and they told her metal from the pully that broke got into the water pumpand they have to replace that to? WTF? it makes a squealing noise and they want to charge her another 300 for that! we just don't understand how that could be if the pump isn't even leaking?
Well like someone else has mentioned the squealing usually comes from the round pulley that the belt rides on maybe in your case some metal has damaged the idler puller on your water pump and that would definitely give you a consent squeal. the price to replace your water pump is very excessive the part at any over the counter parts store ranges from 30-45 dollars the labor too do this on a jeep is 2.2 hrs @ the shops hourly rate which also varies but 45-55 hour isn't unreasonable... so on the high side of these figures it should be about 120.00labor 45.00 parts so a bill of $165.00 would be more appropriate......but if you don't make the repairs knowing it still has a problem you might void any type of repair warranty on your current repairs already completed...hopefully this has helped you somewhat...jimboz
Q:37KW how many contactors does the pump need to start directly?
37KW current is about 70 a few A, you can use CJ12-100 contactor, the answer is for reference only, the premise is that the motor limit voltage is 380V.
Q:I am trying to change my daughters 2004 Grande Am water pump because people tell me it is squealing. We purchased a replacement pump and blue gasket glue. I know to remove the Serpentine belt (not sure which pulley to reduce tension on) then I need to know which bolts to un-tighten, won't the pump turn as a use the wrench? Is there a good video available on changing out the water pump? I've done maybe 5 water pumps in my lifetime all on V-8s with rear wheel drive, so they had easy access. Does anyone know the steps of removal or can someone point to a video of removal replacement?
better make sure it,s not the belt squealing and not the pump. usually when a water pump goes out they will leak. i would be checking the belt first.
Q:There are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card, is not a bad capacitor, how much is the direct standard capacitance it?
The motor is sure of electricity, isn't it? Is there a low voltage or broken phase (three-phase motor), these cases will cause the motor does not turn, or low speed (easy to block), so should be measured with a universal meter. Maybe the boot capacitor is broken. Or smell the smell of burning. It might be a short circuit between the motor windings. (bearings should be hard to break). Look for repairs if you suggest. You may not be good. Oh, capacitor. You can measure good and bad with a universal watch. If the capacitor is replaced, it is better to choose the same capacitor as the original configuration parameter.
Q:What is the meaning of "ETA" in pump selection table, the unit is%; and what does "NPSH" mean? The unit is m. Is in the south water pump performance curve appeared, please refer to the master, and now thank you.
NPSH refers to the cavitation, the pump is the technical parameters
Q:One repair shop on the phone says I will need new water pump, coolant flush and *850.00. On the other hand the dealer says I may need tow other drive belts (alternator +). Second dealer says I may need a water pump! I do not wish to get stuck with extra costs! any one with experience?
Do you NEED a new water pump? No. Is it a good idea at this mileage to do the WP with the T-belt? Yes. The reason being if the water pump were not replaced and it were to fail at some point in the future you would have to pay all of that labor again since the timing belt has to be removed to get at it. Now the pump may never fail but it could which is why this is recommended as preventive maintenance. A T-belt on this car whether 4 or 6-cylinder books for 3.0 hours of labor time. Adding the water pump while the mechanic is already in there just adds 0.4 to 0.7 hours of labor time and the cost of the pump and coolant flush. Since the coolant flush is probably due anyway that really isn't even an additional cost. Similarly, the accessory drive belts have to come off when doing the timing belt. If they are worn or still original there is no labor additional charge to replace them at this time, just the cost of the parts. In the end it is up to you. To save money now you can opt just to replace the Timing Belt and perhaps the accessory belts as well and leave the pump alone. Ideally a water pump will last the life of the engine but then my shop replaces 4-5 water pumps a week that have failed so it can and does happen. If you opt to leave it alone just keep in mind that if it does fail you will have to pay all that labor a second time. If your willing to take that risk then....
Q:water pump went out how do we find it where would it be located?
If you can't see it on the engine. It may be behind the timing cover. Many engines are now set up that way. The timing belt also runs your water pump. And if you have to replace the water pump. You will also replace the timing belt. Which is a good idea any way .Since a 2001 may have many miles ,and just about ready for the belt to break. Leaving you stranded.
Q:my friend has a 2008 Buick Lucerne V8 model. She said its over heating, and steaming from under the hood. the engine is also knocking. Could this be a water pump issue or something else?
Give me a minute UPS has just pulled up the drive with my repaired crystal ball, be right back.
Q:We have a low area in our back yard. The previous owner had a pump installed. The flow switch is in the ground at the lowest point of the yard. The actual pump is 2 feet or so, higher up. We have not had to use it much. But last week, when we have the big storm, it stopped working. It some how worked again, but pumping a lot slower, then it stop pumping again. With this pump, I had to add water to get it primed. The last time I try to add water, the water drains instantly. Any one how what could be wrong with it? It was suggest a seal was broken. Thanks for your help.
If you say that the pump is 2 feet higher you must have a hose onthe suction side of the pump it probably has a foot valve on the end of the hose it must be hung open thats why when you try to prime the the the water flows thru check to see if there is any debris holding the check valve open if there is clean it out close the valve prime with water and try to pump
Q:the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
The okorder / Of course, when you are doing this work you want to replace the thermostat, and back flush the rest of the cooling system!

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