• Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads System 1
  • Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads System 2
  • Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads System 3
Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads

Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Auto parts: 

brake pads

Position: 

Front Axle

PAGID: 

C1004

VALEO: 

541679

WVA: 

29108/29109/29163

FMSI: 

D1203-8323

FERODO: 

FDB1313

Rate: 

EE&FF

Test: 

Link &Greening Test

 Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.

Delivery Detail:

30-45days

Specifications

Brake pads 
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement 
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

    Crossing Reference Number

Application

FMSI

D1203-8323

FERODO

FDB1313

Scania   

 

Benz 

 

Man 

 

Iveco 

 

DAF

WVA

29087

WVA

29059

WVA

29106

WVA

29105

WVA

29062

WVA

29061

WVA

29060

WVA

29046

WVA

29045

WVA

29042

WVA

29202

WVA

29201

WVA

29179

WVA

29163

WVA

29109

WVA

29108

O.E.M.

0034201620

O.E.M.

0024204920

O.E.M.

082135100

O.E.M.

0044202220

O.E.M.

2992348

O.E.M.

1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design. 

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

 

 

 

 

Q:I‘m debating what car I should get. I don‘t like cars. I gave my car (a4) away a year after i got a motorcycle; i didn‘t use the car at all. But now I realise that when motorcycle brakes and i need to take it to the dealer (BMW needs special tools) I need a car. Also you can‘t fit more then three people on a motorcycle. Pick-ups are nice and awesome but i like going fast through turns and better millage. Ford transit is practical but i want to have smtn i can drive in a day light without being embarrassed. so if i put my k1200s sideways, do u think i can fit it in a6? does anyone have experience with that?
Genesis mentions that Tubal-Cain, seven generations from Adam, was an instructor of every artificer in brass and iron. * A remarkable iron pillar, dating to about A.D. 400, remains standing today in Delhi, India. This solid shaft of wrought iron is about 7 1/4 m high by 40 cm in diameter. Corrosion to the pillar has been minimal although it has been exposed to the weather since its creation. Iron is a relatively abundant element in the universe. It is found in the sun and many types of stars in considerable quantity. Its nuclei are very stable. Iron is a principal component of a meteorite class known as siderites and is a minor constituent of the other two meteorite classes. The core of the earth -- 2150 miles in radius -- is thought to be largely composed of iron with about 10 percent occluded hydrogen. The metal is the fourth most abundant element, by weight that makes up the crust of the earth. periodic.lanl /elements/26.htm.
Q:HelloI‘ve been looking at different motorcycles and all of them, when you pull on the lever, will make a nice click. Now, I wonder, what does it mean when it doesn‘t make this click? I ask this because there‘s one bike I like and that particular bike doesn‘t do the clicking sound.
If you look under the lever you'll see the wiring for the brake light switch.
Q:Hi, as i was about to take off i think i let out the clutch too soon and my bike fell to the side where the clutch is. i picked it up and i started to drive and as i come to stops and apply the brakes my bike near the front makes a bad clicking noise. but it only makes the noise when i want to stop and sometimes slow down, what could be the problem for this?? thanks
Ur pad pen clips are a bit loosen, a bit hit will repair it. Please check the caliper bolt for loosen while u were there.
Q:Yesterday while riding my brand new yamaha dirt bike i had trouble understanding how to brake....My dad told me i had to hold the clutch and apply the brake gently ,and im trying to figure out if when i go to a complete stop do i shift back to first or apply more gas on the gear im currently on Please Help Thanks
Talking dirt, right? Use engine braking... back off the throttle, downshift as needed. Use the front brake. Use the front brake hard. Use the front brake harder, fall down; okay don't use it quite that hard again. Nail the rear brake and lock up, slide rear to the right, lock the front, left foot down, slide sideways to a stop. Stopping in the dirt is part of the fun of dirt riding. A dirt bike is suppose to kiss the dirt. If you aren't going down you are no where near having as much fun as you could. Just avoid the cholla.....
Q:Kinmen and Matsu motorcycle did not brake how the matter
I do not know the disc brake or drum brake, if it is disc brake, check the brake pump is damaged, whether the lack of brake oil, brake system is leaky oil, brake pads are too large or improper installation. If it is drum brake, check the brake shoe is excessive wear, brake cable is broken or improper adjustment and so on.
Q:I am interested in buying a motorcycle possibly in the future. I have ZERO riding experience and all I have is a drivers license. How would I get my license if I don‘t have a bike?
first thing you should do is get out and ride, go to a mates who owns a cheap dirtbike, listen to everything they say and then go for a little put put one thing to remember is on the road, front brake is king along with maybe a gear down or two to keep the engine ticking over incase you need accelleration in a hurry, on the dirt, rear brake and engine braking is the way to stop, front brake but only gently as it can lock easily and fold out from under you at a seconds notice. then its hello dirt time. another is on the road, NEVER EVER EVER use the rear brake in a corner unless its an emergency and you have to stop really fast, in which case you'll be standing the bike upright and bringing the levers in as far as you can as fast as you can without locking up the wheels. bad juju right there. also, letting us know where you live would be helpful but if i had to guess i'd say going to or calling your registration office where you got your car license and inquire there about the process for attaining the bike license. here in australia i had to go for a 2 day weekend course (they provide the bike) from memory, then go to the RTA (roads and traffic authority) and pay the 100 odd bucks of whatever for a learner license. for my p's it was a day ride with a group and a in house check up of riding ability, do a u turn, braking test, etc.
Q:My front brakes were making a squeaking noise on and off on my motorcycle so I changed the front brake pads (in which they needed to be changed bc the pads were shiny). and now they squeak and squeal even worse! High pitch noise. And I don‘t even have to be pressing on the brakes for them to squeal, I can hear it going 45 mph! What‘s going on here? Btw the rotor is smooth/no ridges. Best answer, 10 pts! Thanks
There is rather nothing you can do about it, other than preserve using. New pads squeak greater than old ones, given that they may be finding the infinitely small ridges within the discs. Ultimately, the squeaking will go away.
Q:okay.... soo u know how riding a dirtbike if u brake with the front one... u eat mad ****. now if ur on a motorcycle... in traffic which would u recommend braking with the front or the rear... this is a huge fear of mine... to ride in traffic and having to brake fast.... the eating **** with a 600 pound bike... any recommondatons
The front brake slows the vehicle down considerably but will never succeed in stopping it. For that you need to use the rear brake as well. Remember to cultivate a gradual squeezing action in the brakes. Never use more than 2 fingers to operate the front disc brake. To come to a dead stop, use both the brakes in conjunction. Just to scrub off some speed, the front is enough. Anticipate your stops and let off the throttle in advance. Never tailgate a vehicle. Always leave enough distance between the vehicle in front of you and yourself. Keep your mind on the road and make sure that you are clearly seen by other riders. Wear light colored clothes when riding at night.
Q:I plan to buy a motorcycle in the next couple of months and of course I want to protect my investment.I‘ve done some searching online and am overwhelmed to discover the number of types and brands of anti theft systems there are available. Normally I would resign myself to ask the dealerships what they suggest but I‘m fundamentally wary of anything they say as I can‘t be sure if they are actually giving me an honest opinion or trying to make an additional sale. I found a system I like called Roadlok. It seems a simple enough system at a very reasonable price. I wonder if anyone might offer an opinion or even better some personal experience with this system.
I own the roadlok for my 2006 Gsxr-1000. While I KNOW nothing will prevent a determined thief from stealing your bike, the only thing we can do as riders is make it as difficult as possible. The plain and simple fact is, thieves are lazy, and they would much rather steal a bike without a roadlok. The Roadlok becomes a part of the rotor, and a thief would much rather just move on then now have to remove/ replace the brake rotor once stolen. If stolen for parts, its also once less thing they can now sell. Lo-jack and other locators are great methods of recovery, but there is a difference between RECOVERY and PREVENTION. Of course, the marrying of these two methods is ideal but often not done. Prevention in the form of disc locks (not a roadlok), while being inconvenient to carry around and use, has the potential to damage the motorcycle and you as a rider. Unlike disc locks, a motorcycle with a roadlok cannot roll once the lock is engaged, making it much less convenient for a thief to try and roll your bike away or maneuver it into a flatbed. Also, I use Gieco motorcycle insurance and I love the fact that I get a discount on my insurance. (NO OTHER LOCK OFFERS AN INSURANCE DISCOUNT!!!) i only have to carry around the pin and slide it in to lock up my baby. AGAIN!!!! i KNOW nothing will stop a thief, but lets make it a little more difficult while also looking good! Hope this helps, Cheers!

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