• Brake Disc for car and truk  OEM   TOYOTA System 1
  • Brake Disc for car and truk  OEM   TOYOTA System 2
Brake Disc for car and truk  OEM   TOYOTA

Brake Disc for car and truk OEM TOYOTA

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Product Details

Basic Info.

Certification:ECE

Type:Brake Discs

Material:Non-Asbestos

Position:Front

Export Markets:Global

Product Description

Brake disc 
Standard: E-MARK 
Origin: China 
Features: 
1) Hardness: 180-240HB 
2) Long service life 
3) 100% crucial dimension inspection 
4) 100% qualification 
5) Low noise 
Standard for casting is G3000. Standard for machining is SAE-J431. 
We use AIMCO# and OEM# and right now we have more than 1, 900 items that can be supplied to the aftermarket 

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

3102

3438

5361

5588

8978

31163

31353

3104

3441

5362

5590

8979

31164

31354

3106

3444

5364

5593

8980

31165

31355

3107

3445

5365

5594

8981

31166

31356

3108

3446

5366

5595

8983

31168

31357

3110

3451

5367

5596

8984

31169

31358

3111

3452

5368

5598

8985

31170

31359

3112

3455

5370

5599

8986

31172

31360

3114

3457

5371

5601

8987

31173

31361

3116

3458

5372

5606

8988

31174

31362

3117

3459

5373

5607

8989

31175

31363

3118

3460

5374

5610

8990

31176

31364

3120

3462

5375

5614

8991

31177

31365

3122

3464

5376

5617

8992

31178

31366

3123

3466

5377

5618

8993

31179

31367

3124

3467

5378

5703

8994

31181

31368

3125

3468

5379

5704

8995

31182

31369

3126

3469

5381

5712

8996

31184

31370

3130

3470

5382

8101

8997

31185

31371

3132

3471

5383

8105

8998

31186

31372

3133

3472

5386

8106

8999

31188

31373

3134

3477

5387

8108

31000

31189

31374

3136

3479

5388

8109

31001

31192

31375

3137

3480

5389

8124

31002

31193

31376

3138

3482

5393

8141

31003

31197

31377

3140

3483

5394

8146

31004

31198

31378

3141

3485

5395

8147

31005

31199

31379

3146

3487

5396

8160

31006

31201

31380

3150

3488

5397

8163

31007

31202

31381

3151

3489

5398

8171

31008

31203

31382

3152

3497

5399

8173

31009

31204

31383

3153

3498

5401

8179

31010

31205

31384

3154

3502

5404

8190

31011

31208

31385

 

Q:The parking garage at my work has a steep decline that terminates at a control arm. After the rain, it gets EXTREMELY slick and oily. Unfortunately, on account of the momentum the slope generates, it‘s very difficult to only lightly apply the brakes because you‘ll crash right into the control arm. Any tips for safely slowing down a motorcycle on a slick slope?
LOL do you work in my building? My building is like that as well and I hated it. eventually I just found another nearby lot for parking lot to park in because i wasnt too comfortable in mine. If you dont have that option then the two Dans above me pretty much said it. I just ride my brakes and coast as slow as I can until I reach the bottom. Avoid the middle of the driveway as mentioned, ride where the car tires usually will make contact with the ground. Some one had suggested staying in gear but that really wont matter because youll need to ride slower than idle speed anyways and I rather just be in neutral so I have no chance of having a panic moment and dropping the clutch and stalling on the slope. From personal experience I really have no tips other than riding as slow as you can and staying off the middle of the driveway. Its just really one of those non bike friendly situations that you need to just avoid or deal with it. Heres a funny story I dont mind sharing, I left work late one day after the gate at the bottom of the slope shut, and because I was avoiding the oil spots on the drivway I missed the god damn trigger to open the gate and beleive it or not i got stuck at the bottom of the driveway which was still way to steep for me to just push myself up to trigger the sensor lol. Thankfully I had the number to the security guard and had him come open the gate so I could leave. So keep that in mind as youre riding down the driveway.
Q:Hi, I am looking to buy a motorcycle (my first). Specifically a Kawasaki 250r. I want it new and retail is $4k. I am 18 but do have parents who could buy it since they have credit if you catch my drift. Im really confused and need some help on a couple things though-Should I get a motorcycle loan or a personal loan?-Can you even use a personal loan for a motorcycle?-What are the average interest rates for the better option?-Will this increase my auto insurance for any reason?-How long does a bike like this usually last if well maintained?-Any information on maintenance would be great, (how often to get oil changed, how long brakes and tires last, etc)?-If I were to get a used one, roughly how much would it cost me to have a mechanic verify its in good shape?-Is it worth buying a new one for $1000 more if it doesn‘t have 5000 miles on it? (idk how much is too much)Sorry for all the questions, I just want as much information as possible, thank you. ]
You can get a personal loan for any reason, but you do not need to tell the bank it's for a motorcycle. Get whichever is cheaper. - If you get motorcycle ins with your car ins company, you may get a discount. You can also reduce your car ins if you tell them that you will be driving the car less. - 15+ years of use if well maintained You should not buy a new motorcycle as your first bike. EVER. You will drop it, probably at low speed in a parking lot while learning. Why on earth would you do that to a new bike? Ninjas have so much plastic that is easily damaged and expensive to replace. The 250r does hold its resale value, so you won't likely find a total deal in the used market, but they are out there. Take a personal loan for it and save your $ for gear. Full gear! You could probably get a mechanic to come out and give it a once-over for $75 depending on where you live. Consumables will be consumed. depending on how much you ride! But expect to do 2 oil changes a year ($40 for filter fluid), brakes every year or so ($40+ labor), a year or two with the tires ($150).
Q:I am trying to get my mom convinced that I will be a much safer driver on a motorcycle than a car. I have been doing research and teens get into more accidents in cars than on bikes by percentages. The reason for it is because the teens on motorcycles get there senses heightened and teens in cars get careless. The teens in cars also can get distracted by the radio and stop paying attention to the road and cyclists have nothing else to do but look around them at the cars they are passing/being passed by. What is your opinion, 18- get in more accidents on bikes than cars. also want opinion: would you agree with me that I should get a motorcycle as well as a truck so the bike isnt my main means of transportation?
Now look up the death toll and severity of injuries in percentage of matorcycle accidents to car accidents.
Q:I bought a 2008 Kawasaki ninja 250r. I just notived there is some black dust (carbon/coalish color) under the exhaust pipe, what could that be?Also, the owner told me to run the motorcycle for 20 minutes every day, if I wont be riding it that day, any reason why? and do I have to do this?when I brake, do I need to pull in the clutch and then brake? or it doesnt matter?lastly, is there any way I could know when the last oil change/tune up was done? I wasn‘t given any maintenance records, but the oil level seems fine.Thx.
Change the oil and do a service on the bike so you know when it was done and can start tracking it! If you are just slowing down a few MPH or so no you don't need the clutch, but to come to a stop and for other gear changes yes you need it, or you will stall the engine. I see no reason it would need run for 20 minutes a day NONE, other than if you want to waist gas! All engines make soot its part of the combustion process and near or around the exhaust tip you are seeing some soot its more than likely normal, and an engine that uses carbs like your bike and does not have catalytic converters in the exhaust will produce soot and you will see it at the tail pipe.
Q:It just started this weekend. I have been riding in the mountains and when I began coasting down the hills, my bike would begin to wobble. It only seems to do this when I am using the back brake slightly or when I am coasting without holding the clutch in. I also see that the back wheel has no wheel weight on it and wonder if thats the problem. Help me out.
Place the bike on a stand, center-stand if applicable. Check - for any loose spokes, side-play from axle to rim, loose axle nuts, proper alignment of rear wheel to frame and - you didn't mention how old the tires were!? If they are more than five years old and subjected to ups downs in usage and weather, they may be out of whack also. The balance weights loss would only effect forward movement, the wobble is something else.
Q:you have 212 wheels and 180 brakes. 2 brakes per vehicle. how many motorcycles and 4-wheelers do you have?
2 brakes per. 180 total gives you 90
Q:just tips to know if my motorcycle brakes is still in good condition
Does it STOP well? 80% of braking is done with the front wheel. The rear brake isn't as powerful but should be noticeable when you apply the frake.
Q:For a bike
Sometimes when I've had work done on my car, they'll forget to reset the little switch that causes that light to come on. However, I don't mess around with warning lights, I would take the car back to where you had it serviced, and have them check it out.
Q:What im asking is do you have to balance out the gas you are giving it with the clutch? or can you just let go of the clutch right away then just gas, and when you stop do you have to clutch again then brake or just brake? if it is exactly liek a manual car then i know how to ride, but im not sure if it is
There is one difference. On a car, you switch to neutral between each gear shift, and you can select any gear you want (so long as you match speed). You can shift between 2 and 4, for instance. Mostly, modern bikes have a constant mesh gear box. This means that you can only switch up and down one gear at a time, and you do not enter neutral between gear shifts (unless you do a bad shift and enter a false neutral by failing to engage the dogs bad for your transmission). This also means that if you are slowing to a stop, you can't just put it in neutral then brake. The easiest thing is to just slow down, then drop gears just before you come to a complete stop. If you are racing and slowing into a corner, you will want to drop gears as you go, blipping the throttle each time you downshift, which leaves you ready to accelerate in a hurry. There is a bit of controversy over the subject, but many riders swear that you don't need to use the clutch when shifting up on a bike. You can shift pretty easily by releasing the throttle then pressing up on the shift lever a fraction of a second later, then quickly opening the throttle, again. But if you do this frequently and are not super smooth, this can probably damage your transmission over time. Some people do this all the time, some people only do it when accelerating hard, some people never do it. I use the clutch, but when upshifting, only use an inch or so of clutch travel when in a hurry.
Q:the only riding experience i have is i just completed a msf course.im 32,male,5‘7 170lbs.
They both run 10/11 second 1/4 mile, will spin the rear wheel if you open the throttle too much while driving, and will do 160mph, in addition, they don't come with anti-lock brakes like cars do, You actually can get motorcycles that have anti-lock brakes, they do exist, and that was a major selling point for me when i bought my fjr1300, the fjr1300 is similar in performance to a 600cc sport bike, but is much larger and heavier, has more torque in low rpms, and has a much higher price tag, but it comes with ABS If you feel that you can handle that on two wheels, then I would definitely vote for the fz6 because its comfortable, you will find that most sport bikes have riding positions that are very annoying, and almost unpractical, the fz6 is an exception to this. You probably wouldn't notice since its your first bike, but if you bought both bikes, you would want to throw the r6 in the garbage out of frustration, and a non willingness ot ride it for longer than 30 minutes. Personally i wouldn't recommend any of those bikes as a first bike, but i will say that there are people responsible enough to learn to ride on them, and at 32 you may be responsible enough, so im not going to jump down your throat and say you will drop it in a few weeks after buying it, before buying either though, you shoudl consider the fact, that many peopel, drop their bike a few times when they first learn to ride, like during slow speed stu[id mistakes, so if you buy one, dont buy one thats very expensive in case you do drop it. When i was learnign to ride, i didnt park mine right and it fell onto a curb, and anothe time it fell over when puttign it on a center stand, the engine wasnt even running when they fell. and still I dropped them twice.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products


Related keywords