Best Galvanized Steel Sheet in Ciols with Best Prime Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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1.Structure of Galvanized Steel Coil Description

Hot-dip galvanized steel coils are available with a pure zinc coating through the hot-dip galvanizing process. It offers the economy, strength and formability of steel combined with the corrosion resistance of zinc. 

 

2.Main Features of the Galvanized Steel Coil

• High strength

• Good formability

• Rust- proof ability

• Good visual effect

3.Galvanized Steel Coil Images

Best Galvanized Steel Sheet in Ciols with Best Prime Quality 

 

4.Galvanized Steel Coil Specification

Zinc coating :40-180g( as required)

Width:914-1250mm(914mm, 1215mm,1250mm,1000mm the most common)

Coil weight: 4-10 MT(as required)

Surface: regular/mini/zero spangle, chromated, skin pass, dry etc.

Operate Standard: ASTM A653M-04/JIS G3302/DIN EN10143/GBT 2518-2008

Grade : SGCD,SGCH, Q195,DX51D

C

oil id:508mm/610mm

5.FAQ of Galvanized Steel Coil 

We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely: 

1. What is the minimum order quantity ?  

Our MOQ is 50mt for each size. And we will consider to give more discount if you make big order like 1000 tons and more. Further more, the more appropriate payment term your offer the better price we can provide. 

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Q:What is the difference between LTCS and Carbon steel?
Low Temperature Carbon Steel
Q:whats the average price of wide flange steel W10x30?
The price of steel is increasing daily, so an exact answer is rough. A W10x30 is a fairly common shape and shouldn't be too hard to find. For a very rough ballpark number, say $700/ton (installed price), the piece you require should be in the range of about $250.00 or less as I assume you'll be doing the installing. Please don't take this as the gospel, however. Price varies on location, stock, and availability. Open the phone book and contact your local steel supplier. Because the piece you require is fairly short, you might get lucky and find someone who has a waste piece that length that they will give you a good deal on. --------------------------------------... I just checked the AISC web site to verify the number I quoted above and they posted an article stating that the average mill price had just increased to over $1000/ton in May. The best advice I can provide at this point is to buy the W10 now and don't wait any longer.
Q:Any ideals for makeshift steel boning?
Don't try it. For two main reasons: 1. Corset boning is not just strips of flat steel; it is made from coiled high tension spring steel with clever metal ends to prevent tearing any fabric that comes into contact. You could try strips of hard wood such as teak, ash, oak. The risk is that the st rips will break when they bend around your corseted figure. Then they'll be dangerous and could puncture your skin. 2. Corset bones are there in the corset to support the fabric; not to exert any pressure on you for figure reduction. It is the cut of the fabric that produces the shape, but bones stop the fabric from crinkling, or gathering into your waist as the tension is applied. That is why commercial bones are specially made to be fairly lightweight, flexible in the right directions for your figure, and will not rust or otherwise deteriorate with wear or careful cleaning. So go for easiest you can get from the Net. That's my advice. OK?
Q:About hydrolics which one used in steel melting shop?
The correct spelling is hydraulics. I haven't heard the term steel melting shop you probably means a foundry or a steel mill The most obvious example i can think of is hydraulic-operated fork lifts. Hydraulic cylinders are used to lift the forks and to tilt them upwards or downwards. The valves are coneccted to levers next to the steering wheel. Hydraulic pressure is supplied by a hydraulic pump driven by a propane or diesel engine. In some forklift designs the wheels are also not connected directly to the engine, but driven by hydraulic motors. There are also a large variety of machines used in steel mills and metalworking companies to cut and shape metal parts. for example, press brakes, plate cutting shears, stamping presses, hole punch machines, drawing presses, etc. These types all operate in much the same basic way. They use a very large cylinder or group of cylinders to apply many tons of force to different kinds of metal working tools.
Q:What are the end uses of steel coil? galvanized steel coil?
Steel coil is the name given to thinner sheet steel when it is manufactured - it comes out of the machine and is formed into a coil for ease of handling storage and transportation. Thin sheet steel is used for plenty of stuff. It can be slit (cut) into thin strips as well as just cropped and used at one of the standard lengths x widths it leaves the mill. There is a big market for this material. It is used in many construction and engineering applications for things like ducting, boxes, gutters, down pipes, flashings, panels, car bodies etc., anything made of thin steel Galvanising is a flash coating of zinc which improves it's corrosion resitance. Cost wise it is a relatively cheap material. The chemical composition of steel varies, it is mostly iron but has various other elements added or present as impurities that change it's characteristics, depending on the end use. These additional elements can be selected to give better weld ability, hardness, tensile strength, corrosion resistance, flexibility and so on. In many applications excess of these chemicals is undesirable. For example sulphur and carbon are generally better at lower levels. The chemical composition data is contained in a material data sheet and expressed as a percentage of the chemical present and which gives the composition of a particular batch of steel, allowing it to be selected for particular applications and traced for quality assurance purposes. The list you have there shows presence and quantity of other elements in a particular batch of coil. The thickness is 0.23mm, quite thin.
Q:Elastic modulus of galvanized steel?
I've okorder.com/
Q:I am getting a benchmade mpr (m390 steel) and am unsure if it is a good knife look at the chart below?
From what I understand m390 is a new steel (at least for benchmade) so there doesn't seem to be a consensus on how it performs. Looking at the table, it should be very corrosion resistant. I'd guess it could be classified as a stainless steel. Sorry I don't have more info for you. EDIT: here's a link from the steel manufacturer. I hope this info helps.
Q:difference between titanium and stainless steel?
titanium is a light-weight silvery metallic element that is corrosion-resistant while a stainless steel is a steel containing atleast 12 % chromium and is also corrosion-resistant. both are good choices for a new exhaust.
Q:what grade stainless steel is used for revolvers?
*Rifle barrels are usually made from steel alloys called ordinance steel, nickel steel, chrome-molybdenum steel, or stainless steel, depending upon the requirements of the cartridge for which they are chambered. The higher the pressure and velocity of a cartridge (pressure and velocity usually go up together), the faster it will wear out a barrel. To give a satisfactory service life, barrels for high velocity cartridges must me made from tougher and harder steel than barrels for lower pressure cartridges. *The 400 (416) series SS commonly known as ordnance grade , is what barrels are made from . *If you want your barrel to be made from super alloy then it is 718 Inconel ,but a costly affair.
Q:How to temper steel? ?
Heat treating easy, HA! It is the most critical part of bladesmithing. Done wrong and all those hours of work go up in smoke (or a snap of the steel). You'll need a bucket of oil, preferably one that is deep enough to go in point first. If not you'll have to go in edge first, not recommended on a double edged blade, ok for single edge. You'll need to build a charcoal fire long enough for the blade. You will need to blow air under the fire to get it hot enough, the challenge is getting the heat even. You get the fire going and established, put the blade in turning it back and forth (if you keep turning it in the same direction when it heats up you could work a twist in it). When it starts turning red pull it out and touch it with a magnet, if the magnet sticks put it back. Keep heating and repeating until the magnet no longer sticks. Heat a little more, then quench rapidly point first. Don't let the blade lean to one side as warpage will occur. When it cools enough to touch, check with a file. If the doesn't file cut then you've properly hardened the steel and it's ready for temper. Now comes the really hard part. Grind the scale off carefully,preferably with a side grinder with a flap wheel. I've had hard wheel break freshly hardened blades. After cleaning you'll need to put it in an oven (preferred) or use a torch and carefully heat the blade. Watch the temper colors (oven temp 500-550F) or with the torch as the steel turns colors blue to purple for a double edged weapon. Any warpage that occurs needs to be worked out at temping temp.

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