Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 15 mm high-performance

Ref Price:
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
1000 pc/month

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product

Order On-line Tracking

Timely Delivery

OKorder Service Pledge

Credit Rating

Credit Services

Credit Purchasing

Share to:

Product Description:

Ball Valve For Heating Supply

Product Description of Ball valve for heating supply:

Technical introduction

The ball valve is designed as fully welded structure,which can prevent the leakage of medium.
The valve seat is floating and spring-loade.The seal is made of soft seal materials of PTFE+20%C and Viton B.The seat is tightly abutted against the ball surface by the pressure of a spring,so that even if the media is in low pressure,a reliable sealing can be assured for the ball valve.Double piston effect and double seal(two-seal seat)are adopted in specially designed valve seat to realize double sealing,which makes the tightness of the ball valve more advantageous and the operation easier.
A floating ball is adopted for DN15-DN200,and a stem and trunnion ball is adopted for DN200 and above,which can ensure the accurate position of different size ball.In other words,the sealing performance,low torque valve and operability can be guaranteed.
The sealing of the stem is fulfilled by two replaceable O-rings and packing consisting of PTEE+20%C or flexible graphite,as the packing seal material,is fire proof effect,and is specially suitable for fuel gas systems.
The materials used for the valve body and pipelines are the same(carbon steel or SS steel),valve body and stem adopt SS steel and the packing adopts PTEE+20%C which is corrosion-resistance or flexible graphite.

                                             

Design Features  of Ball valve for heating supply:

Features and Applications

Raymond's fully welded ball valve for heating supplyand Fuel Gas systemare used to control the flow at fully open or closed position,not regulate the flow.Only special types of ball valves can realize the flow regulation.Therefore,our welded ball valves can satisfy the requirements of heating systems,e.g:
Main pipelines of heating equipment
Cross channels of heating pipes
Heat exchanger station and any long distance operating station,e.g:
For the transmission of hot water and two kinds of mixed media(water,air or natural gas),limited to Max.4.0MPa and 200°C.
For the transmission of natural gas and one medium,from -30°C to 60°C,and even up to 150°C using specially designed ball valves.
Coal gas pipelines,trunk and the branch supply lines.

 

Standard of Ball valve for heating supply:

Actuator

 Gear  Handwheel customize 

Connection

 Flange  SW  Weld customize 

Medium

 Gas  Natural   gas  Water customize 

Medium Temperature

 <200< span=""> customize 

Application Fields

 Electricity  Medical  Petrochemical customize   

Connection Standard

 EN 1092-1  EN 12627  ISO   7-1 customize 

FAQ of Ball valve for heating supply:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.


Send a message to us:

Remaining: 4000 characters

- Self introduction

- Required specifications

- Inquire about price/MOQ

Q:how to protect a foot valve?
most foot valves i have bought come with a strainer attached perhaps you should look for that type. if your valve has a strainer you may consider making a further coarse strainer out of a ball of chicken wire and place this over the foot valve assembly(thats what i do for the cold water supply to my house) don't compress the chicken wire very small as it will block up i tie the wire filter on with galvanized wire then i can easily replace it if necessary ps i tried stainless steel pot scourers but they were to fine and blocked easily
Q:how do i replace my EGV valve?
check your vacuum line first maybe replace it first and see if this takes care of the problem. then do what chromepla says
Q:Damaged water valves will not close?
This is a common problem. Don't force/twist them or they could break off. You will need to shut of water to your house [assume it is a single family?] The shut off is frequently in the front of the house where the water enters and could be under a hose bib [outlet]. Don't confuse the water shut off handle with the water pressure regulator, a dome shaped metal cylinder attached to the incoming water pipe. If you can't find the shut off there is usually one on the water utility's side of the water meter - closest to the street or road and sometimes one just on the outlet side of the water meter that you can twist by hand. After shutting of the main water supply to the house relieve pressure at a low point - usually a hose outlet. This way when you remove the water supply valve under the sink you won't get a cascade of water. You may want to douse the shut off [sometimes called angle stops] with some penetrant like PB Blaster penetrant and let it sit. You may want to purchase 1/4 turn ball style shut off valves as opposed to the twist or gate style. Note the size inlet, IPS 1/2 inch, 3/4 etc. and the outlet size, generally 3/8' for new faucets. Take a photo with your phone or a digital camera and take it to the store when you purchase new shut off valves. If you have a dishwasher and the water supply goes to the hot valve, then be certain to get a shut off valve with two outlets and use it on the hot side. If you are in a condo or multi-family you will need their permission to shut off the water unless each unit has it's own shut off [more typical of town house style than apt style condos.]
Q:Kenmore washer inlet valve?
see if you can find a manuel on it also try tracing the wires that go to the valve and back track from there. there is also water level switches and tempture switches that might be messed up
Q:Broke a Bolt in the Valve Cover?
I've seen enough heads blocks and other equipment ruined to say take it to a machine shop. The bolt can be drilled out and removed then the threads cleaned up with a tap. However trying to do it with hand tools will, 99% of the time, end up a disaster. You need the proper tools to make sure that drill bit is centered and runs straight and you only get one chance. Sometimes it won't leak with an upper bolt missing, especially if the bolt is in the middle. But if it's a lower bolt or a top one near the end, it's a pretty good bet to leak.
Q:1979 oldsmobile pcv valve?
On one of the valve covers. It will have a larger dia. (about 3/8) hose hooked to the end up of and going to the carb. It will be pushed into a rubber plug thing on the valve cover. Just remove hose, and grab valve and pull up on it.
Q:which valves on the mc are the outlet valves?
The outlet valves are the bleeder valves behind the wheels the ones you open up when your bleeding the system.But to bleed the master cylinder mount it to the car and then fill master cylinder and then screw in the bleeder hoses at the locations where the metal lines hook up to the master cylinder and bend the hoses around back around to the top of the master cylinder so when your bleeding the master cylinder the brake fluid goes back into the top of it to get the air out of it.Then hook up your brake lines back to the master cylinder and bleed out the rest of the system to the wheels.Usually when doing this you start with the right rear bleeder behind that wheel but have someone there to pump on the pedal even when your bleeding the master cylinder first and then you do the rest of the system.On some cars bleeding the rest of the system starts with sometimes different wheels like the front and or the back.But on a usual bases you generally start with the right rear then the left rear and then the right front then the left front.But by bleeding the system check with a shop to find out what the bleeding steps are to bleeding the wheels outs at the valves each car is almost different to do.But the master cylinder is the easiest to start with when it comes to bleeding it but watch out when going to hook up the brake lines back to it because some brake lines are hard to hook up and what I mean by this the fiitting might get cross threaded when putting them
Q:Replacing Valve Cover Gaskets?
The valve cover gasket (parts and labor) is about $100 - $200 for the left side and $300 - $400 for the right hand side, but be sure you didn't misunderstand and the failing gasket is actually a head gasket. Those are a big deal: $1500 - $2000.
Q:Cold Air intake + Bypass Valve. ?
The AEM Bypass Valve protects the engine from ingesting water and hydro-locking if the filter becomes submerged in water. Hydro locking occurs when the end of the inlet pipe is submerged in water and the water is sucked into the engine. Driving the vehicle in rainy conditions is not enough to cause a problem unless the vehicle submerges enough that the inlet end of the pipe is immersed in water. Rain impingement on the filter will not cause a hydro lock condition. The distance of the filter from the road dictates the level of water that can cause damage. This distance varies with the vehicle ride height, which is why there are no published numbers for this measurement. We suggest taking this measurement and keeping it in a log book, so that in the event you encounter deep water you will know what your maximum allowable depth is before potential submersion of the inlet pipe. All AEM Cold Air Intake installations retain the factory splash shield (fender liner) for filter protection and performance. Removal of splash shield actually deteriorates performance by allowing air heated by the pavement to enter the filter and negates any positive pressure created in the air filter area when the vehicle is in motion. There are some instances where there is not enough room around the inlet pipe for adequate clearance of an Air Bypass Valve. In these instances, we recommend installing a Short Ram system if water ingestion is a concern.
Q:Toilet shutoff (stop) valve problem?
Definitely the tank float valve needs adjusting. Take the tank cover off and look at the water level, should be up pretty high and just below the venting tube. If it's not you need to adjust the valve. One quick and easy way is to bend the rod that is located between the float and the valve. Bend rod down so that the float sits lower in the tank. This should increase the amount of water in the tank. Some valves have a screw to adjust the water level. If this is the case you'll have to screw in one direction to see what the effect is (more or less water in the tank) then make the adjustment you need in the appropriate direction (screw in or out). Not a big deal, you can do it.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range