Auto Part Ceramic Disc Brake Pad for Japanese Car

Auto Part Ceramic Disc Brake Pad for Japanese Car System 1

Auto Part Ceramic Disc Brake Pad for Japanese Car

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Auto Part Ceramic Disc Brake Pad for Japanese Car

Q:So the thing is, Motorcycles are following cars technology although they‘re around 20 years behind! Liquid cooling introduced in cars far earlier than bikes. So do fuel injection and now ABS braking. Now my real point is, will motorcycles go automatic in upcoming years? Honda have already showed some interest by introducing VFR1200F and NC700, both of them have optional automatic transmissions. As much as 99% scooters have already gone automatic (CVT to be precise). Piaggio used to had twist shifters in the 70s but now they‘re all automatic. Do you love this trend or hate it? I simply hate it, it disgusts me to my core: A manual transmission is part of what defines a motorcycle. Most motorcyclists consider an automatic not a real motorcycle. I rode a Hondamatic from the early eighties, I did not like it at all and most riders would feel the same.

Q:Its a salvage vehicle, and I know HWY Patrol will need to do a brake and light inspection, and a vin verification at the DMV, But Is this going to more difficult than it sounds? I am considering doing a trade for this vehicle and wanted to know what I was going to get myself into before hand, any thoughts from anyone else In Cali who‘s done this?: Brake And Light Inspection

Q:I have bought 1 '78 Honda CB400T and everything was fine until next morning where the front disk brake locked up. I suspect that it might have to do something with temperature change as the previous owner kept the motorcycle in his heated garage and didn't take it out for quite time and when I brought it home and left it overnight on cold weather the disk got locked up. (I live in NYC, so the weather isn't that brutal though) It has been standing for a week now. I went today to bleed the brakes but nothing helped. Any suggestions?: Unbolt the caliper, remove the brake pads, make sure the piston is clean and smooth with no rust, pitting or brake dust so you don't damage the seal in the caliper a copper or brass wire brush and contact cleaner will work good for this- do not scratch or gouge the piston because it will damage the seal and leak there my be a rubber dust boot over the piston you can gently roll to back before you clean the piston. If the piston is pitted or scratched then the caliper need to be rebuilt and the piston replaced. Remove the master cylinder cap so the fluid can be pushed back into the reservoir when the piston is pushed in have some rags handy fluid my spill then use a C clamp or channellock pliers to push the piston back into the caliper. pull the brake lever a few times to to push the piston back out then push the piston back into the caliper do this a few times don't over pump the brakes or the piston may pop out of the caliper. If the piston moves smoothly you can reinstall the pads bolt the caliper back on, pump up the brakes and bleed the system.

Q:Which brand of motorcycle is good?: Lifan, Zongshen, construction, Jialing, Haojue, Qianjiang, Longxin, the seven Chinese brands can be, the quality of the price are similar.

Q:Do not start the motorcycle brakes: Do not brake with a foot brake?

Q:I have a 78 CB125 that uses a cable actuated disc. I‘m putting on new bars and levers--doing some rewiring of the bike as well. The switch is basic and plugs in the lever right behind the cable. What are my options for preserving this feature? Is there an inline cable operated switch I could use, or are there aftermarket levers that have this feature built in?: Keep the lever perch with the switch and change the lever only.

Q:Does anyone have experience using mopeds or motorcycles to commute to work in bad weather or in the winter? I‘m told by dealers that there is no reason they can‘t be used then, and they know people who do, but this may become my go to work vehicle. Reason being of course, gas mileage and having a vehcile that only meets my needs. I don‘t for example, need my four seater family sport sedan with a trunk big enough to sleep in and crappy gas mileage to take me to work everyday! Thanks for the input! and alternative options!CS: good drive in the wet and cold to save some gaslook out for the giant 4 x 4.s

Q:how do you bleed brake lines on motorcycles?: There are 2 common methods. Manual bleeding, which is pulling on the lever, opening the bleeder (which has a hose attached and drains into something), when the lever hits the bar closing the bleeder, then releasing the lever. Most professional mechanics who are aiming for doing Quality work (not just Fast work) prefer this method. It's the only method I use and I was the top student in my certification classes. The second method is to use a Mity-Vac. You attach the device to the bleeder nipple, pull a vacuum , then open the bleeder and hold the lever to the bar. You keep the vacuum up and it sucks the fluid out. One step that will speed up Both processes is to suck out the old brake fluid from the master cylinder. I usually just stuff a clean shop towel in to soak up the fluid, and then toss it. You can then refill the master cylinder and proceed with bleeding. Takes less than 5 minutes to do both sides of a dual-disk front end once you do it a time or two.

Q:I have a 2000 Yamaha warrior and it starts sputtering and skipping the higher the rpm s go anyone have any ideas how to fix it: you should at least get a 3 ton jack or bigger, think about it like this. a half ton is 1000 pounds, your is between 5000 and 6000 pounds which is a really freaking heavy car. at any rate. to be safe get a 4 ton or attempt to use the jack you have and use jack stands to support the car so you don't hurt yourself. I hope i could be of help to you. thank you!

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