Q:3 days ago my check engine light came on, so I took it to a shop and had them scan for codes. Came up with the old loose gas cap code. The cap was neither loose nor old (I actually had just had it replaced a few months ago), but I replaced it anyways. The light stayed on, and the mechanic told me they‘re no longer allowed to reset the check engine light for that specific error code. New federal law, apparently. I thought that was pretty weird, but anyhow, the light went off this morning on my way to work. I don‘t know what this indicates, as I‘ve always had the system reset by the mechanic once it‘s fixed. Does it go off by itself over time if the problem has efficiently been fixed?

Nothing to worry about. What happens when a code is given and repaired with the emissions system is that the engine is required to operate for a specific number of drive cycles. This may mean a number of starts and stops and or a certain number of miles that must be traveled before the light will reset itself and the problem will have been solved. You can call the vehicle dealer and ask the parts department or service department how that works on your particular vehicle.

Q:Last week I had a tail light out and was checking fuses before I tried switching bulbs. When I pulled a 10 amp fuse the dash display went black. The fuse was ok, so I put it back in. But after I put it back the check engine light stayed on and has been lit since. Is there really a problem with the exhaust system or is there a way to reset the display?

Well the person above me is describing how to reset the maintence light not the check engine light and as far as taking your car to auto zone for a free check do not do that either Auto zone does have a dtc pad but it does not work with Hondas interactive network and is not designed just for Hondas it is just a generic pad that works on all vehicles Auto zone can reset the engine light but there pad cannot excactly tell you why the light is on. The only way to figure out excactly why the light is on is to take it to a Honda dealer they will charge you between 40 and 50 dollars for a diagnostics charge but there pad will open the ecm and send a signal to it to tell it excactly what is wrong and why the light is on

Q:How to repair the car headlamps leak

If you change the lamp, you will notice that the lamp mounting hole is the only channel that can enter the headlamp. If the cover or seal of the bulb is damaged, it is not impossible for the steam to enter the headlamp from here. Some people will say that the bulb seat in the hood below, there will be no rain shower to the top, how can enter through the bulb This is a good understanding of the headlamps will be issued when a lot of heat, the lamp inside the air heating, the pressure inside the slightly higher than the outside world. At this point, if a place there is a gap, this pressure will be released, the lamp in the air becomes thin, once the lights out after the temperature drop, the headlamp pressure will be lower than the outside world pressure, and then through the leak Take some air to make up the balance, if you happen to be just rain or wet weather, then the water vapor is easily pulled into the headlights. When the next time the headlamps, most of the air is squeezed out, and then inhaled some water vapor, so repeated, the water will accumulate more.

Q:They have just announced today the features of the new CANON EOS 450D:12.2 megapixel CMOS sensor SD/SDHC cards Larger viewfinder Live view mode, including contrast-detect AF Improved 9-point AF system Spot metering3.0 LCD monitor Redesigned menus (including My Menu as seen in 40D) Slightly redesigned info display Continuous shooting at 3.5fps for up to 53 JPEG (6 RAW) ISO setting displays in viewfinder and ISO button New, larger, higher capacity battery 14 bit A/D converter and processing Multi-shot self-timer mode Highlight Tone Priority (from 40D) Auto Lighting Optimiser (boosts shadows after shooting) Kit lens with ISI‘m still contemplating on getting either this 450D ($899) or the 400D ($549). Do you think the additional features justify the price difference? Or should I just get the 400D and get better lenses?

I would go for the 450D for a few important reasons: 1) improved AF system. Very important in getting focused shots, particularly in dim light. 2) larger LCD monitor. Avoid frustration from having to try to make out details on a small screen. 3) larger viewfinder: makes it easier to compose. 4) improved kit lens with IS All of these things together make the 450D a better value--you'll get more keepers. Any one alone might not be enough, but taken together, it makes the price difference inconsequential. If I were Canon, I'd cut the Canon 350D, keep the 400D and cut the price, and add the 450D.

Q:Car headlights easy to bad

To change a new one

Q:maybe its 1000 - 1500 only does it in nutural and park and drive when at idle runs and drives great doesnt overheat has 154,000 miles i really need some help please i have 3 kids i changed the iac already but nothing changed!!

If you have a check engine light on, and it's a code for the idle control system, then you may need to repair or replace your engine computer. Because sometimes when the iac goes out, it fries a chip on the computer board. This is especially likely if you had noticed an electrical burning smell in the car when you first started having problems with the idle.

Q:My 2006 Mazda 3 check engine light is on, but not blinking. The dealership said that it‘s not serious if the engine is not blinking and that it is ok to drive. Can anyone else out there confirm this is true? Has anyone else had this problem with a Mazda 3? They say it can be a loose gas cap. And that if i drive for 100 miles it should turn off.

Play it safe, go to auto zone and have the codes scanned for free. If they say it is an EVAP code then the dealer is right and the lite will go out due to a loose gas cap. The 100 miles is to reset the OBD2 system good luck

Q:I have a 1998 Chevy Lumina, my car would not start. Luckily, this all happened in my driveway and not on the highway! I called AAA last night and he tested my battery and alternator, both were in poor condition (the alternator tested in the yellow, about a 12). Before this happened, I left the car running for 10 minutes to warm up (I live in MN), but 3 hours before, my car was running normal. I explained to a family member about what happened and he said, quote, “that doesn’t make any sense”. I moved to a metropolitan area where I do not know anybody personally who can even help me to repair my car. Also, too, I’m worried I was taken advantage of by the local auto technician. Could there be another underlying issue that the technician didn’t even want to take the time to diagnose, such as maybe tightening the alternator belt or just charging the battery altogether? Before this happened, none of my indicator lights came on, such as the battery light or service engine light. Thanks for the help!

Let's assume that the AAA technician knew how to properly test the car battery - if he says it's in poor condition, you should replace it first, then. if your problem persists, you may need to replace the alternator, but that's more expensive, and a battery is simple to replace and easy enough for you to shop around for pricing on, even as a woman :) It's the type of job that should have a very set cost, they won't need to see your car to quote you on it, so call around a few local auto garages, I think you should get it done for about $100.

Q:How to detect car lights?

Check the rear running lights, license plate lights, rear fog lights, brake lights (plus high brake light a total of 3), reversing lights, after turning lights, after the double flash and trunk lights.

Q:It‘s been doing this for a few months and the 2nd time I took it to AutoZone to get it checked out and they said nothing is wrong. After that it stopped an then a few weeks later it started again. Iv noticed it only happens when I am on the interstate and it only flashes a few times then cuts off.

Not necessary - if you NEVER drive over 30 mile per hour.