Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Hilux 04465-0k260

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Product Description:

Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Q:brakes on motorcycles?!?!?
Some bikes, like “old school choppers” will tend to push the front wheel if you use just the front brake (if there is one) due to the rake and trail of the forks. Most modern bikes will stop perfectly well on front brake only, it is only in poor road conditions that you really need to change the ratio from 100:0 to 70:30, many riders are not comfortable riding like that and it does take confidence (that you will not rotate about the front axle) – there is only one way to gain that confidence.
Q:I have a question refering to a FMCSA motorcycle brake systems chart.?
I am not very clear abou that. But I advise u to get on a site called bikerkiss. There are many motorcycle experts there. I think they will give u some good advices.
Q:Do you have a motorcycle?
Drum brakes using brake shoes squeeze the brake drum to produce braking force to brake, and more for small trucks and low-end cars, due to its weak braking force, wet water easily lead to instantaneous braking failure, heat decay and other reasons, Has been on the verge of elimination, are backward technology.
Q:Motorcycles, which brake to use?
That 70% is the braking force done by the front tire, not by the brake. You always, always, always, apply both front and rear brakes evenly. Never, ever, use more front brake than rear. You don't even need, a front brake at all. Many old and custom bikes, don't have one. That being said, two tires stop faster than one. In dry, conditions. Use both brakes evenly, using the front brake only, when you stop. If there is sand, gravel, water, ice, snow, oil, or anything else. Use only a very light touch, on the front brake. If you lock up the front tire, you will go down. If you lock up the rear tire, you can just ease up. No big deal. If you slam on the rear brake, it will lock up the rear tire. If you do this in a turn, the bike will slide out from under you. If you release the rear brake during a slide, you can high side. Very painful. You brake before and entering a turn. Once again evenly, front and back. You brake before the turn, to pre-load the front tire. Once you've slowed down, so you can make the turn, Let off the brakes, cost till you can gas and go. Hitting the gas to soon, will unload the front tire. Causing the front tire, to drift. Making you go wide, into oncoming traffic, or off the road. Take a motorcycle safety coarse, ride safe.
Q:How should the motorcycle speed brake?
Step on the rear brake `` `
Q:can motorcycle engine braking be avoided?
the way i learned to ride, is use the brakes only when you have to.... the rest of the time, engine braking is best... and it is. however something tells me you're going about it wrong... you're supposed to be reving your engine before letting the clutch back out after down shifting.... of course you lose speed, that's the point... but you're not just slamming your bike from higher speeds to lower speeds... i don't even have a spedo, so i obviously don't do anything by speed or rpms... i do it by sound and knowledge of how fast my bike goes in each gear.... with time and practice my 'instincts' have become more well honed, i can engine brake my bike to a slow steady stop, without jerking....
Q:What is the brake on the left hand of the motorcycle?
Some of the rear brakes (assistants) are some clutch
Q:How to brake on a motorcycle?
You apply the clutch every time you wish to change gears or come to a complete stop. You use both brakes to stop a motorcycle. On a sport bike type motorcycle, the front brake will do most of your braking as weight transfers to the front wheel as you stop harder. Let up gradually on the rear brake to avoid a rear wheel skid. On a long wheel base bike like a cruiser, you can use the rear brake longer as the weight transfer to the front wheel takes a lot longer and more weight stays on the rear wheel of the bike during hard stops. Regardless, modulate both brakes to keep each wheel from locking up. Each bike is different and each stop is different as the road surface changes from place to place. Knowing how hard you can brake on a particular bike and in a particular situation just takes practice. This is why they make vacant parking lots - practice. If you are stopping from a higher gear, you can start to slow with the brakes with or without the clutch disengaged. At some point, the engine will start to lug - you want to have pulled in the clutch by then. The idea is to be in the ideal gear as you slow for taking off again if you wish. Pull in the clutch and downshift as you slow. No - you don't need to release the clutch each time unless you wish to use the engine to help slow you down. Be sure you are in first gear just before you come to a complete stop. It is difficult to shift a motorcycle into first gear from higher gears once the bike is stopped. It is possible to upshift and downshift without using the clutch. It is much easier to upshift to higher gear without the clutch - you just preload the shift lever with your left foot and roll off the throttle - it magically shifts. Shifting down without a clutch is much harder you have to match engine speed with gear speed exactly. I do not recommend you do either as you can do serious damage to the transmission if you get it wrong. They gave you a clutch lever - use it.
Q:About motorcycle brakes
Brake pads and brake drum contact surface too little, or the gap between the two is too large,
Q:Motorcycle brakes defects
I would take it back to the dealer. A few years ago Harley changed the composition of their brake pads and all the new bikes had a loud squeel when braking. Harley would never admit anything was wrong of course. The problem was solved simply by beveling the leading edge of the pads.

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