Auto Brake Lining 4515, Asbestos-free, American Standard, 23K FF, OEM Orders are Accepted

Auto Brake Lining 4515, Asbestos-free, American Standard, 23K FF, OEM Orders are Accepted System 1

Auto Brake Lining 4515, Asbestos-free, American Standard, 23K FF, OEM Orders are Accepted

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Stable friction coefficient
Low pad and rotor wear for a long time working
Extremely low noise
100% no-asbestos

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Netural export packing
Delivery Detail:	7-20 days after order confirmed

Brake Linings for BPW, with Asbestos Free, Low Noise and Safe Braking Performance

Model Number: WVA19094

Specifications:standard and oversized
Materials: 100% non-asbestos&ceramic fiber
Features:
Low noise and dust-proof
Silent brake action
Lifespan: 45,000 to 50,000km
Less fading and heat-resistant up to 400°C
Sharp and safe braking performance
Excellent friction performance and stopping power and allow for sensitive braking
Packing:
Inner packing: 8 pieces/set in a box
Outer packing: sea-worthy paper carton and wooden case or standard export packing
Supply ability: 60,000 set/sets per month
Service: providing after-sales service for automobile factories at home and abroad
Suitable for vehicle

Auto Brake Lining 4515, Asbestos-free, American Standard, 23K FF, OEM Orders are Accepted

Q:I remembered that someone told me that motorcycles have specialized paint that doesn‘t let water ruin it. I just want to get a general consensus about whether or not I should cover my motorcycle all the time. Because I‘m taking it to college and we don‘t have garages or anything. Just the wide open nature.: Just Motorcycle Covers

Q:i just had my first motorcycle accident a few hours ago due to me losing confidence during a turn. i was doing everything right until i got to close to the shoulder then i panicked i straightened up the bike. so i went of the road onto dirt. i kept it Straight for like 10-20 feet i didn‘t hit brakes to hard because it would‘ve locked up but went in between a electricity pole and the wire that holds it up then it hit like a dirt mound, then the bike caught like 2 feet of air and when it slammed down i bounced of the seat and over the front of the bike. i broke the fall a little bit by rolling. i got up cleaned my self up and looked at my beautiful bike she was hurt broke a couple fairings and rearset but was still rideable i looked at my buudy who was hella woried then i started laughing and then requested a hi 5. but now im really sad my bike is hurt but im glad i was able to walk it off: I can't remember, but here's a funny one - I was riding down a track that had a chain across as a gate. I figured there was enough slack in the chain that if I rode over it, it would touch the ground. It did, but it also got stuck in the front tire tread, so when it reached the front fork the wheel stopped dead and the bike did a perfect somersault landing exactly on the front light. I ended up sitting in the dirt. I don't remember being particularly hurt, except in the wallet - bike parts seemed ridiculously expensive.

Q:Also applies to bikes/motorcycles etc.They also have larger brake discs for that reason. Please try to use laws if possible.: Just think of the car in motion when you try and stop it. The car has a center of gravity and there is a torque from the loaded weight on front wheels about the CG and similarly there is an opposite torque from the loaded weight on the rear wheels. (The lever arm for each goes from the CG to the front point of contact on the road for the front torque and goes from the CG to the back point of contact on the road for the rear torque.) The sum of which is zero, of course. When you try and stop the car, new torques are added. The lever arm here is from the CG to the ground level, but both have the same rotation as each other, rather then opposite. The additional front torque loads the front of the car downward harder to the road, while the similarly rotating new torque around the CG reduces the loading in the rear (lifts it somewhat.) If you want more details, try the following page. I haven't read it, but did a quick search on google using a few terms I tossed at it and this result looks about right.

Q:whenever i pull the lever for the front brake. It really doesn't do anything. It does work a little but not effective at all. The lever feels tight and stiff. What do I need to fix? I was thinking to change out the pads, will that do the trick? Do i need to bleed the brakes as it feels a bit tight? any input would be appreciated. it's a 1997 suzuki intruder 800.: If you are not confident to fix it, get a professional It might be that you can lubricate the lever pivot, or the pistons on the pad or the handle, if they are stiff or corroded. Or disassemble them and clean them and polish them with fine sandpaper if required and reassemble them with some lubricant. Don't get grease on the pads (though it will burn off quite quickly). You bleed hydraulic lines if they have air in them - that makes the brakes squishy, not stiff. Changing the pads (the braking surface) would not help, though if the back is corroded and sticking it may help. I forget how the pads are assembled; it's been a while since I changed mine.

Q:What type of brake fluid do most cars use, 3 or 4?: DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids are completely compatible - DOT 4 has a higher boiling point.

Q:what things should look for in when looking to buy a motorcycle?: go for comfort, reliability, fuel capacity and most important something U want and not something somebody else thinks what u need. looking to buy is a difficult process. look at your options and way the pros and cons on each bike and make your choice from there.

Q:I bought a 2008 Kawasaki ninja 250r. I just notived there is some black dust (carbon/coalish color) under the exhaust pipe, what could that be?Also, the owner told me to run the motorcycle for 20 minutes every day, if I wont be riding it that day, any reason why? and do I have to do this?when I brake, do I need to pull in the clutch and then brake? or it doesnt matter?lastly, is there any way I could know when the last oil change/tune up was done? I wasn‘t given any maintenance records, but the oil level seems fine.Thx.: The carbon color is a byproduct of lean combustion. Not uncommon on today's engines. If you have a fuel injected bike, it's most likely OK. If it's a bike with a carb and an aftermarket pipe, you probably need to have the carb rejetted correctly. No, do not run the motorcycle every day if you are not going to ride. That is the most stupid advice I have every heard. Your bike will be just fine sitting there without running it for hours, days, even weeks. You can actually damage the bike over time by idling it without going out for a ride to completely warm up the whole drive train. Do not listen to the person who told you that about anything motorcycle. You need to pull in the clutch to change gears. Yes you can do clutchless shifts, but you risk damaging the transmission if you do one wrong. You can slow with the brake without pulling in the clutch to the point that the engine begins to lug, then you need to shift. If you are slowing to a stop, you can pull in the clutch and use the brake to come to a complete stop - shift down as you slow - you don't have to release the clutch every gear if you are going to use the brake to come to a stop. You need to be in first gear just before coming to a complete stop. No. The previous owner was an idiot. You need to just start fresh. Change the oil and start your own mileage countdown for the next change - 3000 miles or jus before winter storage if you don't ride that much.

Q:Should I feel resistance? Does it take much to activate the breaks? I barely touch them and the brakes respond. Is this how it's suppose to work?: Depends. If you have hydraulic discs in front, and working right, you should feel a solid (not mushy) resistance at the end of travel. It shouldn't take much force. My bike has about 3/8 travel at the very tip of the handle. If they are cable actuated drums, well, a bit more travel, and a less positive feel is normal.

Q:I am brand new to motorcycles and am teaching myself how to simply start and stop while i wait for my MSF class. I notice whenever i brake and come to a complete stop in first, the bike stalls. I then have to turn it back on, find neutral, and start it. Do i need to have the clutch pulled in when i stop? The bike works fine other than this, i get the feeling im probably not doing something right.: The bike is working fine, you need to pull the clutch in when you are going to stop.

Q:I know you shouldnt ever brake on a curve. But if you have to slow down for some reason, would u use rear or front brake, or both?: Actually, it is okay to brake slightly in a curve as long as you are not cornering at or near the max. Although the usual order for negotiating a curve is Brake, power, turn, there are some turns where it is advantageous to use trailing brake, gradually easing off on the brakes as you enter the turn. If you need to brake hard for an obstacle while in a turn, the best practice is to straighten the bike up and brake hard with both brakes.

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