ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

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Basic Info. of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

 

ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Model NO.:ASP5610-300

Pump Casing Combined:Horizontal Split Pumps

Impeller:Closed

Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump

Position of Pump Shaft:Horizontal Pump

Usage:Pump

Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump

Mounting Height:Since Irrigation Centrifugal Pumps

Capacity:~11000m³/H

Head:~11m

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.
Packing:Wooden Case

Standard:CE

Production Capacity:50, 000 PCS/Year

 

Product Description of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Foot-mounted is applied on the pump casing and the pump is designed according to GB13008Technical specifications for mixed and axial flow pumps
ASP5610 series chemical axial flow pump includes horizontal, radial, cantilever type.
The pump is safe and reliable with steady operation and easy maintenance.
The pump is steadyhydraulic performance, high efficiency, and has large range of application. It is high efficiency and energy saving product.
Sealing can be packing seal and double mechanical seal, driving method can be directly-connected or belt drive,
Rotation direction: When getting from top and discharging from end, the pump rotates anticlockwise from the drive end. (Standard structure)
When getting from end and discharging from top, the pump rotates clockwise. (When user requests, the impeller nut is front seal head. )


Application Area of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Transmit liquid that is nomal temperature, liquid that is neutral or corrosive; Liquid that is clean or includes solid particles. Especially applicable to circulation system that is for salt&alkali making.
Irrigation and drainage equipment
Sugar industry
Paper making and paper pulp industry
Chemical industry and petrochemical industry
Salt making and alkali making industry


Performance Range of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Capacity Q ~11000m³ /h
Head H ~11m
Work pressure P ~0.6Mpa
Work temperature t -20~180º C

 

FAQ

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?

A: Yes, the WQ models.

Q: How long is your warranty?

A: Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

 

ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High QualityASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

 

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Q:1996 mitsubishi eclipse water pump?
I've done hundreds of them with the engine in place. If it's a Chrysler 420A powered lump, you'll need a puller for the bottom crank pulley. On second thought, don't fix it, sell it short and when the NEW owner F's it up, it isn't your fault. You don't need that pain.
Q:Domestic pump does not turn, but the motor is energized what is the problem?
This is the start capacitor is damaged, or start the coil break, it is recommended to check if the coil wire in the end can be connected, if left in the tank to replace the coil, if the capacitor is a replacement can (470V, 10uF).
Q:Water pump setup?
have that water tested before you do anything.
Q:Well water pump quit working.?
Ok there are several possibilities one is that since pressure went to zero you stirred up sediment in the surge tank especially if it is the old style before bladder type also if air got into pipes that will loosen rust but these are minor and will clear with time and use but i would worry what is wrong with pump that goes to zero and makes noise you better check that out or your at risk it wont restart next time
Q:Integral Problem: Water is pumped out of a holding tank at a rate of 4-4e^-.14t liters/minute?
Water is pumped out of a holding tank at a rate of 4-4e^(-.14t) liters/minute. Lets call that function w(t). So if we integrate w(t) over a time period that will give us the total water removed over that time period. So lets integrate it from t=0 (time when pump started) to t=60 (one hour later): ∫ w(t) from t=0 to t=60 ∫ w(t)=∫ 4-4e^(-.14t)=4t+(4/.14)e^(-.14t) evaluated from 0 to 60 ∫ w(t)=4(60)+(4/.14)e^(-.14*60)-4(0)-(4/.1... ∫ w(t)=211.435 liters removed If the holding tank began at 1000 liters and 211.435 were removed... Remaining water=1000-211.435 ***Remaining water=788.565 liters***
Q:Pump adapter belongs to the system of fire pool equipment?
Not belong to. They all belong to hydrant water supply system.
Q:I have a 1998 Camary 145k 4 cyl my water pump just went out. My timing belt was changed about 25k ago.?
If it were mine, I'd replace the belt again anyway, coolant can accelerate the wear or advance rotting of the belt. The waterpump is driven off of the timing belt so you'd need to make sure you have it all set up to TDC and all marks aligned before removing the belt. Then just remove the bolts to the water pump, scrape away all old gasket material and install new pump, torque bolts to specs w/ micrometer (in lbs) but before you can do all that, you have to remove all components on the front of the motor. Long story short...let a shop do it for you!!!
Q:water pump or not? need clarification before i spend more money?
If you carefully squeeze or even feel some of the coolant hoses while the car is running then you will find out if the water pump is working. You should feel the coolant in the hose surging through the hose. You said it's still leaking coolant, but can't you see where it's coming from - then go from there? Are you getting any white smoke out the tailpipe - this would be a possible blown head gasket, a crack somewhere in the engine block or coolant water jackets. All of these would cause the coolant to seep into the combustion chamber and burn off, usually causing unmistakable white smoke (you see these cars on the road sometimes). I also agree with having a mechanic do a cooling system pressure check - this is the best way to tell where or if the coolant is leaking somewhere. They should also be able to diagnose the problem if its something else, and can easily tell if its the water pump too. Instead of wasting your own time and money, maybe its time to see a mechanic. I also like doing my own work, but sometimes you have to throw in the towel and let a reliable mechanic check it out. BTW, a vacuum leak would not cause overheating, but would cause bad idling, surging, bogging, etc. O2 sensors could cause similar problems, but again not an overheat. I hope I'm wrong, but you may have a blown head gasket.
Q:Head for DCP chilled water primary/secondary pumps.?
to boot to the availability and go back line, if there are different factors in the equipment at the same time with administration valves and warmth exchangers, their rigidity drop also desires to be protected.
Q:Does my malibu have a bad water pump?
Okay first off, run-on sentences are annoying. Second off, driving uphill makes the engine work harder, so of course its going to heat up more... especially being a 4 banger malibu. Those engines are sensitive to severe operating conditions.

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