• ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality System 1
  • ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality System 2
  • ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality System 3
  • ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality System 4
ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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Basic Info. of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

 

ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Model NO.:ASP5610-300

Pump Casing Combined:Horizontal Split Pumps

Impeller:Closed

Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump

Position of Pump Shaft:Horizontal Pump

Usage:Pump

Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump

Mounting Height:Since Irrigation Centrifugal Pumps

Capacity:~11000m³/H

Head:~11m

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.
Packing:Wooden Case

Standard:CE

Production Capacity:50, 000 PCS/Year

 

Product Description of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Foot-mounted is applied on the pump casing and the pump is designed according to GB13008Technical specifications for mixed and axial flow pumps
ASP5610 series chemical axial flow pump includes horizontal, radial, cantilever type.
The pump is safe and reliable with steady operation and easy maintenance.
The pump is steadyhydraulic performance, high efficiency, and has large range of application. It is high efficiency and energy saving product.
Sealing can be packing seal and double mechanical seal, driving method can be directly-connected or belt drive,
Rotation direction: When getting from top and discharging from end, the pump rotates anticlockwise from the drive end. (Standard structure)
When getting from end and discharging from top, the pump rotates clockwise. (When user requests, the impeller nut is front seal head. )


Application Area of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Transmit liquid that is nomal temperature, liquid that is neutral or corrosive; Liquid that is clean or includes solid particles. Especially applicable to circulation system that is for salt&alkali making.
Irrigation and drainage equipment
Sugar industry
Paper making and paper pulp industry
Chemical industry and petrochemical industry
Salt making and alkali making industry


Performance Range of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Capacity Q ~11000m³ /h
Head H ~11m
Work pressure P ~0.6Mpa
Work temperature t -20~180º C

 

FAQ

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?

A: Yes, the WQ models.

Q: How long is your warranty?

A: Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

 

ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High QualityASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

 

Q:I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why? Problems started when our car overheated due to neglecting to refill the coolant a while back. The coolant tank got cracks in it and we had to replace it- but now the water pump is leaking, says my husband- should we just replace the water pump or could this be a bigger problem? Why is it leaking all of a sudden now? (please no snarky rude answers , I'm looking for help not to be scolded! Yes we neglected to add more coolant-- damage is already done so don't bother making a ridiculous comment about it!)Thanks!
water pumps go out all the time and we have no control over them.It is a good idea to service the cooling system once a year,draining the radiator and flush out the complete system .But anyway when you replace the pump it would be a great idea to do just that being that winter is coming up in a few months.Also you never mentioned what type of vehicle you are talking about,someone else mentioned a timing belt ,it really depends on the year make and model but that is some good info also. I hope this info helps ya out.
Q:When I turn on my pump for the pool water-fountain it will run for 30 seconds or 4 minutes or anywhere in between then it just shuts off. I push the remote on button on again and it runs for a few seconds. Sometimes it will run for a while longer but mostly short durations. Thanks in advance for your help.
For it to cycle it fairly is maximum possibly a overheat thermostat change someplace on the motor. A fuse would not reset itself. Are you particular the pump is circulating water. If water isn't flowing and motor is on motor can particularly overheat. have you ever tried priming the pump; the pump can no longer artwork if there is air in the pump or pump intake line (pour water down the pump to do away with air)
Q:To express in writing, you can add appropriate pictures (composition form, preferably 600 or more, not enough, OK, I put together a bit, will give points!) What kind of person would you help me with?
The main flow of water pump (take centrifugal pump as an example):Technical determination of Drawing > raw material storage > mold preparation > casting moulding > machining > parts experiment > Assembly > performance experiment > painting packing > storage.Here are a few key steps:1) the technique determines the graphMainly the work of designers. Generally according to the parameters of the pump (flow, lift, cavitation, efficiency, etc.) to determine the specific speed of pumps, impeller form, impeller size, impeller material, pump body, pump shaft and so on. One of the most important thing is to draw the impeller woodenpatterns.2) die preparationThe mold is mainly composed of workers according to the water pump impeller woodenpatterns production model.3) casting moldingThe casting molding sand is made on the base of the mould.4) machiningWater pump parts processing, because it has hydraulic flow channel, in considering the positioning clamping standard, must find the correct flow channel of the correct position. Avoid assembly, resulting in water pressure chamber and impeller flow channel skew, dislocation, uneven gap, or even rub, affecting product quality. In order to ensure the accuracy of parts manufacturing, it is necessary to design the appropriate tooling, and reasonable arrangements for technological processes, control process factors.
Q:how to remove water pump on 95 honda accord
If you have an overheat problem the water pump IS NOT your problem. Save money and go to a RADIATOR SHOP and get an answer to your problem. Guessing is very expensive.
Q:Help?Water is to be pumped to the top of a skyscraper. If the pump can create a gauge pressure (pressure above atmospheric pressure) of 8.50E+5 Pa, what is the height of the tallest building that it can service? DATA: g=9.8 m/s^2
Natural okorder /
Q:Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?
I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;
Q:okay i just put a new camshaft in my truck and before my water pump seemed to work but it leaked a little bit but my truck never got hot well i drove it a little bit after puting in the new camshaft and the top radiator hose and heater hose was warm but the bottom radiator hose was cold so i think my water pump went out but not to sure thanks to any answers
when your water pump goes out, either it will leak from the weep holes which are the holes drilled in the pump by the manufacturer or around the pulley. If that is happening then its your pump. The other thing to check would be your thermostat, check this by turning your truck on and leaving the lid of the radiator. check the temperature of the water in the radiator with your finger if it warms up in ten minutes then its not your thermostat, if the water level goes down ( like lack of water) then its the pump.
Q:A Pump is direct driven by a 25 HP 900 rpm electric motor at rated load. In order to to double the quanitity of water delivered, it would be necessary to substitute a motor rated at____HP at____rpm. ans. 200 and 1800. not sure how they came up with this answer...whats the equation???
N = (95 H.C)/D Where N = rev/min D = diameter of impeller over blade tips in metres H = total head in metres C = constant. C depends on the shape of the pump and normally lies between 1.05 and 1.2 Later edit. I'm not sure if you are aware of it but each impeller has it's own characteristic performance curve.
Q:Car is ford taurus 98.The car had some problems including overheating as thermostat was bad so was was not working. i drove it 25 miles to garage (i had to stop once because too hot to let it cool), i brought it to Ford who replaced the thermostat. Now they tell me some bits of thermostat broke and they need to replace the waterpump and want $620 for it. The other repair were also extremely expensive and i want to bring it to another garage 1.3 miles away on flat road.-1- is it safe to drive 1.3 mile with no water pump or should iget it towed?-2- should i have to pay for the water pump or is it ford's fault if they did not remove the bits of broken thermostat before reconnecting new thermostat to hose ? Can i prove that the pump was working when i came in if i drove 25 miles with it ?Thanks for your help.
Ford people are boneheads for making you pay for something THEY broke. And what does the thermostat breaking have to do with the water pump? All they want to do is suck you in for every penny. All services are warrantied for X months/X miles. If they broke it, they are responsible for it. As for driving 1.3 miles without a coolant, I would not reccomend it unless you wanna cook eggs on your engine. Seriously though, You'll do more damage to the engine running without a coolant. Then you'll need new pistons, fry the oil in the engine and probably need a whole new engine. Have it towed, it's cheaper in the long run. Don't take it to Ford ever again. They're sufering and in the red, they need to make money some way, screwing people is the way to go.
Q:replaced water pump and thermostat, flushed, opened bleeder valve had long life red colored original coolant, no visible leaks obstruction, when became hot on highway, accelerated quickly and temp back down to norm, eventually after 3hrs driving o.heated stopped and got towed home, new water pumps fins/pulley not turning as freely as old one, no leak out of inspection hole, hoses good shape.2001 2.2l ohv sunfire, air cond.
Your new pump will be tighter then your old pump just makes sense and no you can not pack grease around the bearing, it's sealed you can't even see it. You have given me the best clue you could have and that was that you accelerated and the temp went down. What you did was force more water to circulate in the system. So that leads me to think you have air in the system or the fan is not doing it's job. I'm going with the air in the system but if your car has a viscus fan drive I'd give it a turn, it should not free wheel. Why dose the work head gasket ALWAYS have to come up when someone say overheat? Keep it simple and go back to the last thing done.

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