• API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve A216 WCB Body Material System 1
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve A216 WCB Body Material System 2
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve A216 WCB Body Material System 3
API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve A216 WCB Body Material

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve A216 WCB Body Material

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class

The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.

Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:                                                                                                         

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.

Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize 

Pressure Rating

 150 Class  300   Class  600 Class  900 Class  1500   Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65   mm  80 mm  100 mm  125 mm  150   mm  200 mm  250 mm 300 mm  350   mm  400 mm  450 mm  500 mm  600   mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm

 2 inch  2.5   inch  3 inch  4 inch  5 inch  6   inch  8 inch  10 inch  12 inch 14   inch  16 inch  18 inch  20 inch  24   inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A105+13Cr  Tool   Steel+A105 customize 

3-Disc

 Tool Steel+A216 WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A216   WCB+13Cr customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

5-Nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F6a  A182-F316  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A216   WCB customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B7  A193-B8  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  graphite+316 customize   

12-Bonnet

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8 customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize   

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS 1868

 

FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


Q:I have the correct tools and have done this before. All I want to do is change all three valves that operate the water (hot,diverter,cold). The shower is leaking. I want to change all three valves to stop the leak. I will call a plumber if I can't change the valves or stop the leak. Please tell me what tools I need and I'll begin from there. I have three handles/valves in the shower(cold,diverter,hot).The cold is here # and the diverter is in the center which is here # and the hot is here #. They all line up like this c# diverter# h#. These are how the valves are set up # # #.
Drill out the set screw. It's most likely brass and will drill out easily. Cut an access in the wall behind your shower wall and just replace the whole thing. This will probably be the easiest fix. It may sound like a lot, but in the end you will most likely save time.
Q:I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8 I posted a question on here before and many thanks, What I had was a bent rod well I took off the head and removed all the valve springs and found that where the bent rod was the valve stems are bent too. What else do I need to do? or can I clean the head up make sure no valve holes are bent, replace the rods and valves and be good to go. I want my jeep running again!!! Thanks
I'd say the timing chain either broke or the cam gear is worn off,cam gears used to be made of fiber rather than steel on older engines. When the cam stops turning the valves stop working and when the piston comes up it then hits any valves that are open bending the valve or push rod or both. If this particular engine is run by a belt and the belt breaks you get the same result. To check this you can take the timing cover loose on the front of the engine and check the condition of the chain and gear.
Q:I'm installing an under-sink water filter. For the saddle valve, how do I drill the 1/8 hole through the iron pipe? What is the easy way to do this? Seems like I will be slipping around a bit. Any tips on this step?
This requires a water hook up kit. They're rather cheap - 20 to 30 dollars. For a distance such as yours, it's best to run the flex line from behind the fridge, down through a small drilled hole in the floor next to the wall, and under the floor. And along the basement ceiling, securing it to the floor joists in the basement ceiling, or drilling holes in the joists - as with running electrical wire. If the joists are laid in the same direction the hose needs to go, then it is simply secured in place with plastic loops against the side of one joist. When the hose reaches the area in the basement, just under the sink, a cold water pipe (probably half inch) will be easily accessible. The kit comes with a self tapping valve that will allow the hose to hook up without any tools. It simply clamps on to the cold water pipe and presses a hole in it for the fridge water. They're okay, but I never trusted 'em to remain truly leak proof. So I always just make a trip to the hardware store and get the fittings necessary to install a regular valve for this. The water line kits are sold at Home Depot, Lowes, Manard's, and the like. The instructions are easy to follow. And for the distance you are dealing with, you may need to buy the needed length of flex hose separately, and discard the too short section in the kit.
Q:also are those air flow limiting valves safe for the air pump to reduce the flow of air, I have one because the air bubbles are just way too many without one and it scares the fish away
a check valve is to prevent back siphoning of water into the pump if you have a power outage or unplug the pump by accident. I'd suggest checking it by blowing through it the wrong way; if air does pass through get a new check valve (check new ones to be sure they don't limit airflow too much, and that the close in the wrong direction, many are cheap crap and don't work the day you buy them, so check them before you leave the store with it...note: same with thermometers, compare them with each other so you don't get the one that's crap) what you want is a normal air valve, they come in various configurations, one or more valves so as to run multiple airstones and to balance the airflow to each stone or ornament. You should not however just use the valve to limit airflow, as this damages the pump eventually. You can just let one of two valves bleed off a little air; however make sure another check valve is in the line from the tank to the valves or else you risk water coming out of that valve if it's lower than the tank water level.....You may want a smaller air pump or an adjustable one instead.
Q:I got a french horn, but don't know if I can just use the valve oil I use for my trumpet. please help, thnx in advance :D
Simply said: nope
Q:I am trying to shut off the water valves under my sink to install a new kitchen faucet. The hand knobs appear to be damaged (thin soft metal). In addition, they seem to be seized up pretty well. So I can't shut them off by hand and not sure what I can use to close it off without damaging it further. My initial thought is to replace the valves. Any suggestions?
This is a common problem. Don't force/twist them or they could break off. You will need to shut of water to your house [assume it is a single family?] The shut off is frequently in the front of the house where the water enters and could be under a hose bib [outlet]. Don't confuse the water shut off handle with the water pressure regulator, a dome shaped metal cylinder attached to the incoming water pipe. If you can't find the shut off there is usually one on the water utility's side of the water meter - closest to the street or road and sometimes one just on the outlet side of the water meter that you can twist by hand. After shutting of the main water supply to the house relieve pressure at a low point - usually a hose outlet. This way when you remove the water supply valve under the sink you won't get a cascade of water. You may want to douse the shut off [sometimes called angle stops] with some penetrant like PB Blaster penetrant and let it sit. You may want to purchase 1/4 turn ball style shut off valves as opposed to the twist or gate style. Note the size inlet, IPS 1/2 inch, 3/4 etc. and the outlet size, generally 3/8' for new faucets. Take a photo with your phone or a digital camera and take it to the store when you purchase new shut off valves. If you have a dishwasher and the water supply goes to the hot valve, then be certain to get a shut off valve with two outlets and use it on the hot side. If you are in a condo or multi-family you will need their permission to shut off the water unless each unit has it's own shut off [more typical of town house style than apt style condos.]
Q:I want to reduce the prssure of a liquid flow (ethanol) from 16.7 atm to 1.2 atm? Do I need more than one valve?
One control valve can reduce pressure, as long as there is always a significant flow through it. The main reason for using more than one valve is usually to reduce or prevent cavitation caused by a large pressure change through a given valve. Ethanol has a pretty high vapor pressure, so cavitation might be a problem. Control valve manufacturers usually provide design guides for their valve trim choices (often in software form) that lead you through the choices and requirements. Each valve design has different limits. But, my seat of the pants feel is that you can do this with one valve. I have included an example. I am not specifically recommending this company. -- Regards, John Popelish
Q:My mom just went to DR and will have open heart next Thursday for removal of anyerisum. She was told she has 2 heart valves instead of four. What does this mean? Is it normal?
Your mom probably has a Bicuspid aortic valve, that she was born with.. it means that the valve between her heart and the aorta has two valve leaflets instead of the usual three valve leaflets (not four) in normal people. Bicuspid aortic valve is caused by fusion of two of the three leaflets. It's a fairly common congenital condition, and is associated with a risk of aortic aneurysm (a weakening of the wall of the blood vessel which then causes ballooning of the vessel wall)...usually of the ascending aorta. All the best for her safe recovery.
Q:Just wanted to know what the significance of the number of valves is?I know that theres valves for intake and exhaust if i'm correct.if there is four i'm guessing its 1 for air and 1 for fuel if its fuel injected. and 2 for exhaust?are there bikes with 3 valves or more than 4 valves and why?and a basic carburated 2 stroke just has an intake from the carb side and then an exhaust.please give me more info and let me know if i'm correct or not.
4 valves 2 intake 2 exhaust some single cylinder bikes have 5 2 intake 3 exhaust a 2 stroke engine has 0 valves they have an intake and exhaust port cut into the piston
Q:1990 5.7l with a .470 lift cam , is there going to be a clearance issue between the valve guide and the valve. Is the rocker going to bottom out on the guides and bust my heads.. If so what should i do.
Get yourself a degree wheel and check. A valve stem usually has about 1-1/2 thousandths of an inch of clearance between it and the guide to allow movement and lubrication. Your camshaft has no bearing on this clearance. If you want a wild guess as to whether or not you might get coil bind in the springs, rocker bind against the rocker stud or even valve spring retainer smashing into the top of the valve seal then my guess is not, not with just .470 lift. Probably would take more like .500 for any of that to happen.

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