• Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation with Best Price System 1
  • Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation with Best Price System 2
  • Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation with Best Price System 3
Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation with Best Price

Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation with Best Price

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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1.Structure of Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation Description:

Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation provides excellent insulation: reflects up to 97% of radiant energy in addition to resisting other types of heat transfer from conduction,convection,and radiation.The side of metalized PET/Alu forms an effective barrier against moisture,air currents and vapors.It is economical solution in many field. It is a light duty, Eco grade D/S foil Insulation. It is ideally used as sarking and insulation under roofs , in walls behind cladding or under timber floors , for residential and commercial building. Combining with glasswool or foam insulation, it is excellent as a vapor barrier for air-conditioning ducts, pipes and vessels.

2.Main Features of the Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation:

High heat reflection & low thermal conductivity

Heat preservation & energy saving

Moisture barrier & waterproof

Low flammability

Strong, durable & corrosion resistance

Light weight & easy to install

Clean, safe and fibre free & no odour and toxicity, totally environmental-friendly

No mildew growth & no rodent and insect nesting

3. Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation Images

 

4. Aluminium Foil Facing Insulation Specification 

  

Material Structure:  AL/3 way scrim/Paper AL

Paper Weight:60gsm ( Standard, can be Customized)

Roll Size:1.2m*50m ,1.25*50m (can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

+-0.15

mm

Weight

+-110

gsm

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.037

w/m0

Bursting Strength

90

N/25mm

Reflectivity

96-97

%

Water Vapour Transmission

1.15

Ng/N.S

Corrosion

doesn't generate


Tensile Strength(MD)

144.4

N/25mm

Tensile Strength(TD)

46.3

N/25mm

 5.RFQ

①Are you a manufacturer or just a trader?

We are a professional manufacturer.

②How about the quality?

The quality is very good. We have large and advanced product line.welcome to visit our company.

③How about the delivery time?

We will delievry soon once we receive your deposit.


Q:In a house, it looks like an addition, that now is the kitchen , it feels HOT, it doesn't seem to have a very good insulation on the roof at all, the ceiling is already low, so, what can be done on the outside to give it more insulation?, i don't care what it is i just want to give it a GOOD insulation, the roof is flat and to shingles. Any IDEAS? , thanks!
Sorry but there isn't enough info to give a good answer...is there space between the ceiling and the roof to add insulation...there may be enough insulation but no ventilation in the area directly under the roof (atic area) If there is not enough air flow in this area the temperature will skyrocket thus heat the kitchen AND the shingles will deteriorate very quickly.If you still need to add insulation the best way is to put sloped roof (if possible)and add insulation in the space created or you can use foam insulation and re roof ..make sure you seal between the wall system and new insulation and whatever method make sure to allow air to flow under the roof (both inflow and outflow)
Q:Sorry, I asked this in the maintenance and repair section, but no luck.Which is better to have in a 2-story home? My last 2-story home was always hotter upstairs than down. (Physics...heat rises)
the best is more attic isolation so that the heat don't come directly to second floor.
Q:I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?
If you have clear access to your rafters, the best insulation possible (after installing your vent baffles) is sprayed on foam. I didn't say polyurethane foam on purpose, as there is now a soy based foam available with exactly the same working and thermal characteristics as the petro-poly goop, with none of crude oil. But i digress. Sprayed on foam has the advantage of not only thermal insulation but it also seals everything that it comes in contact with, thus stopping any air movement, something that no fiberglass or extruded polyurethane could ever do. Industry experts are still debating this but, it looks like 1 inch of sprayed on foam (with it sealing qualities) does as much, if not more, than 3 1/2 inches of fiberglass and, foam will never sag or absorb moisture like glass does. Fill your rafter spaces and gloat to the neighbors when your bills come in. :)
Q:What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
You could have foam roofing installed over the existing roof covering. Look up "foam roofing" on the Internet.
Q:roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.
Only you. 8 years is long past any roofer's warranty
Q:What is the aim of insulation in walls and in roofs?
Proper insulation is designed to keep you comfortable in al sorts of weather. In the winter it reduces your utility bills by keeping the cold outside where it belongs. It does the opposite in summer. It keeps the heat out. Learn all about it here.
Q:I gutted the room and now would like to rebuild. One side of the room slants (it's the roof) and the other side of the room is a dormer (all low ceilings).I want to insulate the ceiling but have no ridge vents so no moving air as someone mentioned I should have. I want to install foam channels to keep the insulation away from the roof but not sure if this is a good idea without the ridge vents. I will have a vent to the outside installed on the very top of the roof however and the small attic space is open all the way through the other two upstairs rooms and I will add another roof vent on that end of the house. I will only be able to install 3 inch insulation but that's better than none at all. I live in the northeast and was told if the job isn't done right I can get ice jams in winter. Also I don't see any way to drill ridge vents. would it be ok to just install the styrofoam channels and insulate then sheet rock or am I asking for trouble? Thanks in advance for any help.
Suggestion: install the insulation with the foam channels but leave the center section (roof ridge area) open from end to end. At each end you can install a static vent or an active one. Depending on the amount of space you have you may be able to install a power vent.If you can send me a diagram with measurements I can give you a more definitive answer.
Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.
Q:attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12"x12".Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.
Are your bathroom exhaust fans blowing straight into the attic, maybe? Or your dryer vent?
Q:Hi, I have got a physics question and was just wondering about it.. Can someone pls tell me how does roof insulation work? how is it effective? How does the insulation changes the heat circulation and transfer inside a house?I know that the insulation prevents radiation from the sun and overheating.. but any more details about radiation, convection and conduction of heat pls?
Well insulation makes a dead air space (air is stagnant). Since the air is not moving the transfer of hot and cold is slowed down considerably. But since you have to create cross ventilation to reduce rotting in wood and the build up of explosive gasses. Its a crap shoot that it even does any good. Radiation is heat so that's covered by the dead air space. Convection is usually not an issue with the cross venting. Also for conduction the insulation should slow it down considerably.

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