• Air Diaphragm Pump Water Pump For Food Industry System 1
  • Air Diaphragm Pump Water Pump For Food Industry System 2
  • Air Diaphragm Pump Water Pump For Food Industry System 3
  • Air Diaphragm Pump Water Pump For Food Industry System 4
Air Diaphragm Pump Water Pump For Food Industry

Air Diaphragm Pump Water Pump For Food Industry

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Item specifice

Item:
Air Diaphragm Pump Water Pump For Food Industry
Material:
Cast Iron ;Stainless Steel
Power:
Pneumatic
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Application:
Customer Required


Air Diaphragm Pump Water Pump For Food Industry



Features:

QBK Pneumatic Diaphragm Pumps also called Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pumps (AODD Pump) are rugged and durable self-priming, double diaphragm pumps, can handle any products that pours, from clean water to highly viscous, abrasive and chemically materials.

 

♦ Simple structure, easy to use and maintenance, less wearing parts. It can be working under liquid and running dry as well.

 

♦Suction up to 5m, max discharge pressure is 7bar, max grain diameter is 10mm, max liquid viscosity is 10,000C.s.t.

 

♦ Material: PP, Aluminum, Cast Iron, Stainless Steel. Diaphragm material: NBR, Viton, Teflon, FEP etc.

 

♦ Flow rate can be controlled from zero to max flow by increasing or decreasing air pressure.

 

 

 Specification:

Model

Diameter

(mm)

Max Flow

(L/min)

Suction

(m)

Max Discharge Pressure (Bar)

Max Grain Dia (mm)

Max Air Consumption (L/min)

QBK-8

8

16

5

6.9

1

300

QBK-10/15

10/15

20

5

6.9

1

300

QBK-25

25

100

5

6.9

2.5

600

QBK-40

40

140

5

6.9

4.5

600

QBK-50

50

240

5

6.9

8

900

QBK-65

65

280

5

6.9

8

900

QBK-80

80

400

5

6.9

10

1500

QBK-100

100

480

5

6.9

10

1500

 

APPLICATION:

 

1.The pump can suck the peanut, pickles, tomato slurry, red sausage, chocolate, hops and syrup etc.
2. The pump can suck the paint, pigment, glue and adhesive etc.
3. The pump can suck various glazed slurries of tile, porcelain, brick and chinaware etc.
4. The pump can suck various grinding materials, corrosive agent and clean the oil dirt etc.
5. The pump can suck various toxin and flammable or volatility liquid etc.




Picture Shows

Air Diaphragm Pump Water Pump For Food Industry





Q:i'm changing the tyming belt the vehicle has done 120,000 km should i replace water pump as well
no set mileage. no service interval for that above a visual inspection. should i replace water pump as well YES!!!!!!!!! water pumps are a consumable item. don't wanna do that much labor again soon. i strongly suggest you pay the extra bucks and get a toyota AISIN pump. it will last longer than any after market one hands down. do check for a front main crank seal leak as well. it's part of the oil pump. personally, if it were me, i'd do all three. belt, pump (from toy will be pricey, but worth it), and reseal kit for the front main (is 10-15 bucks and not much more labor).
Q:ive been doing repair work on an old 86 jeep cherokee and when i let it idle there is a water leak, me and my dad came to the conclusion there was something wrong with the water pump. i cant find the manual and i dont even know what im looking for, so where would i find the water pump and how would i go about replacing it?
For 2.5L 4.0L Engines Some vehicles use a serpentine drive belt and have a reverse rotating water pump coupled with a viscous fan drive assembly. The components are identified by the words REVERSE stamped on the cover of the viscous drive and on the inner side of the fan. The word REV is also cast into the body of the water pump. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the cooling system. 3. Disconnect the hoses at the pump. 4. Remove the drive belts. 5. Remove the power steering pump bracket. 6. Remove the fan and shroud. 7. If equipped, remove the idler pulley to gain clearance for pump removal. 8. Unbolt and remove the pump. To install: 9. Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly. 10. Using a new gasket, install the pump and tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). 11. If removed, install the idler pulley. 12. Reconnect the hoses at the pump and install accessory drive belt. 13. Install the power steering pump bracket. Install the fan and shroud. 14. Adjust the belt tension and fill the cooling system to the correct level. 15. Operate the engine with the heater control valve in the HEAT position until the thermostat opens to purge air from the system. Check coolant level and fill as required.
Q:How long should it take a mechanic to replace a water pump on a 96 dodge intrepid ES with a 3.5L engine? I was given a estimate of 6 hours does it really take that long? at 100.00 a hour I'm not sure my car is worth fixing
I work on all different types of cars but just hearing you mention this one makes me be able to recall what a nightmare these cars really are. The water pump on these cars are driven by the timing chain, yes timing chain. Whats really different about this car is when the water pump goes out, it leaks water but since the pump is under the front cover it can't leak water into the oil pan so they put in what they call a weep hole. When the pump starts to leak you will get dripping water out of the left side of the block which is different but normal in this case. The fact that the timing chain drives this pump says this repair is going to take alot of time I believe standard book time on this job is around 6 hours.
Q:I have had this water pump changed 2 times in 5 years is this normal for this car? It has a v6 motor.
1. Remove any radiator shroud, or any cowl obstructing the fan, radiator, and water pump. 2. using a pair of large pliers, take off the clamp on the lower radiator hose at the water pump and drain the coolant into a container. Make sure the motor is COLD, room temp, when you do this. 3. Remove the other hose. 4. Remove the cooling fan using an air hammer or a large adjustable wrench. This part is tricky, unless your fan is bolted on with 10 mm bolts, then you lucked out. 5. For step 4, leave the belt on, it will make it easier to remove the fan. 6. If you have a V-8 LT-1, then you have 4 13 mm bolts. Be careful not to damage your distributor which sits under the pump (nice design GM) 7. Using a razor blade, remove any gasket on the inlet and outlet on the block. 8. Apply a thin layer of gasket sealer on the gaskets for the new pump. 9. Install the pump, and its bolts. Use locktite if you have some on the bolts, medium strength. Tighten the bolts to about 90 in/lbs 10. install the pully, and fan. (again, tricky) 11. Install the belt. 12. put lower radiator hose back on (leave off upper) 13. pour 1/2 a bottle of Dex-cool coolant in the radiator 14. fill bottle up with 1/2 water, 1/2 coolant, and pour it into the reservoir. 15. If necessary, get new bottle of coolant, and pour it into the UPPER RADIATOR HOSE, this will help bleed air out of the system. 16. keep filling upper hose, and radiator until it stops bubbling down and basically overflows. 17. install upper hose. 18. make sure the radiator is full and system has no air pockets. Check to see if the upper radiator hose inlet has a bleeder valve. If it does, use a pair of pliers and open it, and watch coolant in radiator drop, then fillit up again. The V-6 has one, not sure about V-8. 19. put radiator cap on, and resevoir cap. 20. run motor, check for any leaks. 21. drive, if vehicle is overheating and there are no leaks, there is still air in the system. Wait till it cools down and bleed air again.
Q:All the water to my house comes from the river close by - via a 1500kw surface pump, into a large pressurised tank. If there is ever any kind of blockage in the pipe - or if it freezes ...this causes the pump to run - 'dry' - which eventually burns out the motor. I have lost 2 pumps so far because of running dry - and they are very expensive.I would like to fit some kind of automatic cut-out - that will ALWAYS stop the pump running after 15 minutes or perhaps less - as that is ALL the time it needs - if the water is flowing freely - to fill the pressurised tank. I feel sure such a thing must exist - but I do not know what it is called or where to buy one. Does anyone know of a 'switch' of this kind? And where to look for one? What could I put into google to do a search - for suppliers and prices, please?
Put an inline presure switch between the tank and pump so the pump will turn off when the presure in the line drops below a preset presure.
Q:I have an 1985 cadillac fleetwood hearse and the water pump is shot to hell. where do get a good cheep one.
You guys are all dumb please, especially you Kenny. Your a shop manager and these are the parts you recommend?? HA. I thought that was hilarious... theres a difference between good parts and cheap parts... I thought you were smart until you came out with AUTOZONE WILL HAVE WHAT YOU NEED. Do yourself a favor and stay away from cheap chinese autopart stores. I work in a shop and we have people come in ALL THE TIME with their broken water pumps from them. Spend the extra money and get yourself an AMERICAN MADE quality part. Your local mechanic should be able to help you out with that. Good Luck, and don't believe everything you hear.
Q:I have a small leak in my water pump and my check engine light is on throwing a P0303 code and it appears the two might be related.
As far as I know Bars stop leak will not work on a moving part like the seal on a water pump. This is an opportunity to have fresh anti freeze in your car. Get the water pump replaced and have the system drained and filled with fresh. Use a pre-mix or dilute regular antifreeze with distilled water. Many places have hard water which clogs radiators and heater cores. Take care that the system is bled of any air when refilled.. Anti freeze contains water pump lubricant for the seal. If it had been changed last year you may not have this expense now.
Q:I replaced the water pump on my 1997 acura cl 3.0 v6 vtec. I set the timing how alldata said to. (Lined up marks on timing drive pulley and both cam pulleys) and put it all back together. Now when I start it the motor runs rough for about 45 seconds then it smooths out but won't rev past 3000 rpm. What are some possibilites it could be?
reset the ecu, by disconnecting the battery cables off the battery for 30 mins and then reconnect them and see what happens
Q:So, my husband and I bought a 1993 Chevrolet Corsica a couple of months ago. This weekend we took a trip that ended up being about 400 miles round trip. About 300 miles into our trip, the Check Engine light came on, but there was no noticable problem with the car, no overheating, no clanking or odd smells, the light went off about 2 minutes later. So we got it home, no problems whatsoever. My husband drove it to work this morning, and we were preparing to go to the store tonight in it, and we noticed a massive amount of radiator fluid under the car and the overflow bottle was empty. The leaking appears to be coming from the engine, and the antifreeze is running down one of the upper belts. Could this be a water pump problem? If so, what is the average cost to repair one (I know water pumps are relatively inexpensive, but we'll need to take it in to a shop). Does anyone have any idea? All replies will be greatly appreciated.
we've a Jetta and the water pump went at 30,000 miles. Its meant to final plenty longer till the timing belt desires to get replaced. the reason they use plastic for the impeller is so if it fails it would not injury the timing belt. while the pump fails you may notcontinual the motor vehicle for any distance, the engine overheats, the warning lighting fixtures come on and thats it. in case you endured tocontinual you would be able to desire to doubtlessly grab the engine or a minimum of blow the top gasket and deform the top, those engines are all aluminum and can't stand to be overheated.
Q:The pump assembly and the pump are not a thing
Water pump components: stator, rotor, bearing, shell, sealing system, under their own consideration

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords