• AH Series High Efficiency Slurry Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • AH Series High Efficiency Slurry Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • AH Series High Efficiency Slurry Centrifugal Pump System 3
AH Series High Efficiency Slurry Centrifugal Pump

AH Series High Efficiency Slurry Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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1. Description

Industrial centrifugal ah slurry pump

Cantilevered, horizontal, centrifugal,single stage slurry pump


2. Application

 the slurry pumps are designed for handling abrasive, high density slurries in the metallurgical, mining, coal, power, building material and other industrial departments.


3. Features

 Long bearing life: The bearing assembly is with large diameter shaft and short overhang. 
Wear resistant and anti-abrasion wet parts: The wet parts can be made of hard metal (24-28% Chrome alloy)or pressure molded rubber.They are completely interchangeable with each other.More materials are also available.
Easily replaceable liners: Liners are bolted to the casing.
Simple maintenance throat-bush: the mating face of the throat bush is tapered, so the wear is reduced and removal is simple.
Easy adjustment of impeller: An impeller adjustment mechanism is provided below the bearing housing.
High efficiency and high head design are also available.
Centrifugal seal,mechanical seal and packing seal are available.


4. Other Pictures

AH Series High Efficiency Slurry Centrifugal Pump

5. FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.




Q:I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat and the water pump seems to be leaking. The lower radiator hose has been replaced but it still leaks a fairly substantial amount. From what I can tell the pump is still doing its job but I'm losing coolant. Is there a way I can determine if i just need a new gasket or a new pump altogether without ripping the front end off? Any feedback is appreciated.
The pump usually leaks from the center where the shaft comes out to the pulley, it should be replaced. It should be replaced regularly, as the timing belt runs on the water pump pulley, and if the pulley locks it will take out the timing belt and destroy the engine. How many miles on this car? How long since you replaced the timing belt? Probably too long, those should be replaced every 90,000 miles. Things to replace while you are in there: - Timing belt - Timing belt tensioner - Timing belt pulleys - Water pump (with gaskets) - Thermostat There are kits from Autozone and NAPA and such that have most of these parts together.
Q:Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!
I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck
Q:How to design its control circuit, to prevent it idling, what peripheral equipment do you need?
The empty transfer of the centrifugal pump causes dry grinding, and the pump is overheated and seals out.Frequency control cabinet can be used to set their own frequency required job requirements, the external need is contact, is the pressure gauge
Q:I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
Yes, a missing, or broken bolt on the water pump can cause a leak. Either way, if you are showing coolant from the bolt hole, or around the gasket area, it is most likely due to the seal not being tight with the missing, or broken bolt. You must check to see if possibly the bolt has broken off, and not merely been left, or worked out. Most times when a bolt appears to be missing, it is broken, and part still remains in the threaded part. If this is the case the water pump must be completely removed to get the broken bolt out, and then install a new gasket, and all the proper bolts. Tighten them to the proper specifications. It doesn't hurt to use a gasket sealer when you install the new gasket. It's messy, but I find the best to be Form-a-Gasket #2. This is a non-hardening gasket sealer, and very sticky. It is actually much better to use than silicone, but not easier. To check to see if you have a broken bolt just stick a pin, or toothpick into the hole to see if it will go deep into the threaded portion of the mount. In your pictures it appears that there is nothing behind the mount lug, so a pin, or toothpick should go completely through the hole. If the bolt is broken off with the threaded portion still in the mount you will feel it with what you use to probe the hole.
Q:What motor does the pump use?
Single-phase general use YL series, three-phase general use Y, Y2 series.
Q:What are the categories of pumps?
Did you say the pump voltage is 220 or 380?
Q:My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene
about all you can check on a water pump is for free play in a front bearing,if its not circulating real good that's a true sign the blades on the pump are getting worn out,if its not circulating good replace it,you should have back pressure built up in the system when you remove the cap also,this may also be sign there may be a leak in the cooling system,good luck.
Q:my water is frozen from pump to faucets,do i thaw from pump to faucet ,or faucet to pump?
Faucet to pump. It will relieve the pressure in the lines.
Q:when i drove my truck after about 15 minutes i was parked and let my truck idle afetr about a minute of idling my truck stalled and when i turned it back of it was squeeking and made some noises for about ten seconds and then stopped. I noticed that the pully on my fan coming from the water pump was wobbling. my tempuratue was still normal what could cause this i am suspecting taht the bearings in my water pump went?
Ram Water Pump
Q:So I need to make a human powered water pump... Does anyone know how to make one? Any websites that could show me would be nice.MORE DETAILS:The pump is on the ground...it needs to pump water from a reservoir into another reservoir that is two meters high and two metres across from where the pump is... The pump needs to be handheld too. What should I use and any good plans on how to make it?
The simplest manual pump is the lever-arm pump. This is just an elongated cylindrical reservoir, a valve casing, and a pump chamber in a linear arrangement. A piston within the pump chamber is connected to a link, and a handle which is used to pump the water. You can make a simple one by converting an ordinary bicycle pump. Attach an input hose to the air inlet, and an output hose to the pressurized air output for the tire. A good way to develop plans on how to make it would be to visit your local sporting shop or auto parts shop and look over their pumps. .

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