(45-50W) CNBM Solar Polycrystalline 6 Series

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100000 watt
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10000000 watt/month

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Product Description:

Solar cell module production process

Line called packaging line components, packaging is the production of solar cells a key step in the packaging process without a good, multi-well battery is also not a good component of production boards. Battery package not only the battery life is guaranteed, but also to enhance the combat strength of the battery. Product quality and high service life is to win can be the key to customer satisfaction, so the quality of components of the package board is very important.   Mono-crystalline solar module is the core part of solar power systems, as well as the most important part of the solar system. Mono-crystalline solar module consists of high efficiency crystalline silicon solar cell, super white cloth grain toughened glass, EVA, transparent TPT backboard and the composition of aluminum alloy frame. The function of Mono-crystalline solar module is to convert solar energy into electric energy, or sent to the storage battery, or promote work load. The quality of the solar energy battery components and cost will directly decide the quality and cost of the whole system.

 

Process is as follows:  

1, the battery test

2, positive Welding - Inspection –

3, on the back of cascading - Inspection –

4, laying (glass cleaning, material cutting, glass pre-processing, laying) –

5, laminating –

6, to flash ( to the side, cleaning) –

7, fitted border (glue, loading angle keys, punching, install box, scrub I glue) –

8, the welding junction box –

9, high-pressure test –

10, component testing -- -

11 appearance inspection, packaging and storage;  

 

(45-50W) CNBM Solar Polycrystalline 6 Series

 

Data sheet

Characteristics
Max Power Voltage Vmp (V)17.4V-17.6V
Max Power Current Imp (A)2.59A-2.85A
Open Circuit Voltage Voc (V)22.4V-22.5V
Short   Circuit Current Isc (A)2.77A-3.04A
Max Power Pm (W)40W-50W
Temperature Coefficient of Cells
NOCT47±2
Temperature Coefficients of Isc (%/)0.06%
Temperature Coefficients of Voc (%/)-0.33%
Temperature Coefficients of Pmp (%/)-0.45%
Mechanical Data
Type of Cells (mm)Poly156×52
Dimension700×510×30mm
Weight4.5kg
NO.of Cells and Connections3×12=36
Limits
Operating Temperature–45°C to +80°C
Storage Temperature–45°C to +80°C
Max System Voltage700V

 

FAQ:

1. How long will my inquiry get response?

 Your inquiry related to our products or prices will be replied within 24 hours. 

2. Can I get professional service and suggestion?

Well-trained and experienced staffs to answer all your questions in fluent English. 

3. Do you accept OEM or customized design?

OEM & ODM, any your customized lightings we can help you to design and put into product.

4. What if I need specific design?

Distributorship are offered for your unique design and some our current models.

 

 

 

 

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Q:Solar Panels question?
I asked my dad to buy solar panels few years ago and after discovering the prices, i got WHY DO YOU NEED SOLAR PANELS Now i earn myself and hence bought these panels. Hope You don't get that. So do a thing. Go to nearby government office and ask for details for rebate on buying solar equipment and go accordingly. Do some extra work and earn money. In this way you will be light on your dad's pocket and even help in saving the planet.
Q:how can i build a solar panel?
Hehe, if you want to build your own solar panel that looks like what you see on buildings, etc, you will probably need to be a multi-millionaire. Here is a quote from the first link in my sources list: The high-efficiency solar cells you can buy at Radio Shack and other stores are made from highly processed silicon, and require huge factories, high temperatures, vacuum equipment, and lots of money. But fortunately for you, there is a cheap way to make a solar panel yourself (see first link). I love the scitoys website, but I am not quite familiar with this particular experiment. It looks like a science fair project in itself! It also doesn't appear to put out nearly enough power to run even a small solar car. What I would recommend is buying a compact solar panel from Radio Shack or some other electronics store that you may know of. Type in solar in to the Radio Shack search box. The first item on the list may be useful to you (the solar panel battery combo). I am just guessing, though, since I don't know any of your requirements (voltage output, power output, size, etc). Also, buyer beware. This particular product has a pretty bad customer review... but then again, I find that people are more inclined to leave a bad review than a good one. Good luck... -Ubi
Q:Why should I use a Charge Controller for my Battery and Solar Panel based on these provided details?
Should I really be concerned with a Charge Controller? Yes. The main purpose of the charge controller is to protect the battery from over charging. Over charging reduces battery life. And spending extra money for a MPPT type controller will get more more useable power out of your solar panel. Would another battery of the same magnitude be helpful in preventing an accident? How much storage capacity does your current battery have (measured in kWH)? A ~$20 Kill-a-Watt meter would take a lot of uncertainty out of how much power you actually use. Even deep cycle batteries suffer reduced battery life from deep discharges. The battery sounds too small for the loads you describe so I would think you would want more. ---------------------------------------... After reading the other answer In a nutshell, with your small 2 volt starting battery, 24 volt panel and a mix of unknown loads, (which is correct), I thought I would elaborate. I had not considered the possibility that you bought a 24 volt panel for your 2 volt battery. Hooking the panel you bought directly to the current battery is a horrible idea. I you were lucky it would just cook the battery in a short period of time. You basically bought the wrong type of panel for a 2 volt system. I assume that there are no controllers on the the market for this situation. If that's the case, I don't know of any good way match the 24v panel to the 2 volt battery.
Q:Solar Panels heat absorption?
Solar photovoltaics require light, any kind of light. A torch would work, for example. The effect of concentration depends on the amount of light and the material you're shining it on. In CdTe, warmer temperatures and more intense light may lead to better performance. In silicon I think the opposite is true (I don't know though, I've only done research work with CdTe). It depends on properties of the semiconductor, like its band structure. To get an 'order of magnitude' estimate, you may assume a constant efficiency of solar cell so total amount of light (= area * intensity) largely determines the output in standard operating conditions.
Q:how much energy does a 70x70 sq ft area of solar panels collect?
I'm putting in a $00,000 solar wind project on ST Thomas, Virgin Islands so I have some experience here..... ) depends on where you are...the further north the less efficient the panels are because early morning and late afternoon sun hitting at a great angle isn't anywhere near as good as noon hitting perpendicular..........the US Department of Energy has a solar calculator showing how many hours a day over the year you get enough sunlight to actually run the panels....in the Caribbean the answer is 6 so in Wisconsin you might only get 4 really usable hours a day, Nevada 5, Seattle...forget about it..... 2) the panels I'm putting in are ( roughly) 2 x 3 feet...you would need access around all four sides of a panel...you are NOT going to crawl 35 feet across an array to fix a unit in the middle......so lets say you get 35 panels tall ( 70/2) by 2 wide (3 foot with a 3 foot access area between each row = 72/6) or 420 panels. Each puts out 75 watts at max. So you are cranking out 73,500 watt hours, or 73kW. If your local utility buys back ( net metering ) the juice at, say, 20 cents a kWh, you get $4.75 an hour. If you have 4 usable hours a day x 365 x $4.74 you get back something like $20,000 a year. You pay about $7.00 a watt for a panel. The 75 watt panels are, rounding up, $200. each. Times the 420 panels number is $475,000 dollars. Add in about $2,000 for the inverter to change panel volts to power company volts, and maybe another $20,000 for installation you are looking at $500,000 AT LEAST to put in the system you propose. AT $20,000 a year in sales, its 20-25 years payback. Now, you can play with these numbers up and down but you still get the answer of A LOT of money to buy and build and a LONG time till payback.
Q:Price and energy production of solar panels?
The price of solar systems have dropped dramatically in the last 5 years. I would say it has reached to the point that it financially makes sense to go solar! An average home in [California] with $200 monthly electric bill would need a 7.25 kW system to offset 00% of their electric bill (means you won't have to pay anything to your utility company). Average price of the panels are anything between $2,500-3,500 per kW (after 30% Federal Tax credit which might expire at the end of 206). So, average system price will be $7,000-$25,000. If you wanna buy the system your loans monthly payments will be around $40-50 for 2 years and after that your system is paid off and you can enjoy free electricity! Total saving over 25 years can exceed $70,000. Regarding the selection of the right panels or the best company in your area, it varies case by case, city by city. Pick My Solar offers a free service to homeowners to choose the right fit for their home. It's like Expedia or Priceline for residential solar market.
Q:Who made solar panels?
Google would like to be your friend - Try - who invented solar panels and see what turns up.
Q:Will my off the shelf deep cycle battery I purchased at autozone work well with solar panels?
There are batteries particularly made for solar, such as the Trojan T05-RE . I think the RE stands for renewable energy. A deep cycle battery should work all right, although not quite as well. What you want to do is try out your setup first, with just one battery, and the panels provided. If this is one of those 45 watt kits, you may be surprised at how little energy you actually get from the panels. Increasing the number of batteries won't help, either - that's like getting a larger water tank, when you only have a trickle to fill it. If your goal is really to save money, the most cost-effective solar is the grid-tied type, with no batteries at all. That's what we have, and I've never regretted it.
Q:in a solar panel, where do the protons go?
silicon based photovoltaic cells used some boron as dopant. i dont understand if that helps supress proton pastime, the way they be conscious boron on supressing run away nuclear reaction.... im clueless as you
Q:Reasons for installing solar panels in a school?
You have to approach it as an investment. Ignoring the cost of an inverter for net metering, if we consider a 500 W panel installed for $0 a watt which is $5,000 and consider an average of 8 hours of usable sunlight per day, and at a rate of $0.0 per kWh (schools probably get $0.03 per kWh) then the panel would be saving $2.7 per month in electricity. Considering that the panel has an expected lifespan of 20 years, that would give you an internal rate of return such that the monthly rate satisfies the equation: $5,000 = $2.7 * ( ( - / R^24 ) / ( - / R ) - ) By binary method we get R = 0.99588342. Taking this to the 2th power to annualize it we get Ra = 0.9570 which means that we are getting an annual return of -4.83% per annum so investing in the solar panel is the same as making an investment at an interest rate of -4.83% per year. True interest rates are low and you only get about .3% per annum by putting money in a CD but that still beats investing in solar panels which gives you a negative return on your money. Solar panels need to get a lot better before they are a good investment.

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