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FAQ

When making pc boards with microcontrollers, oscillators, etc.. What is the right kind of wiring to use? Specifically:What material (e.g. copper)?What thickness?What brand?Where to buy?What's the difference between the stiff wire and easily bendable wire?Thanks.

I don't mean to piggyback on his question but I'm also doing a project. Making a solar phone charger... My first project really but I have one solar panel 5V max output, but when soldered only gives out 2.8... Sending it to a mini buck booster but that needs at least 2.6 to work. I am just using simple stranded speaker wire, and admittedly the soldering skill needs work. But what kind of wire would I use

I bought a cheap amp wiring kit so the ground wire is not the same size as the power wire but my friend gas me an extra piece of 8 gauge wire same as mine if i put both of these to on at the same time would it help out any? also he gave me some audio cable like the wires inside are twisted to gather the box says it gives you better sound quality would they make a difference in sound that the one's i have on there know?Thanks

NO, you need to buy thicker wire because electricity follows the path of least resistance which means if one of the wires is 1/8 of an inch longer than the other, that is the wire the most electricity will flow through, as far as the speaker wire it wont make a difference unless it is thicker than what you already have installed (its very hard to tell the difference in sound quality even with very high quality speakers

subs - dvc 4ohm 2 of them 600wattrms on each wiring it to a 1200 watt amp same brand as sub amp is 1 ohm stable to i wire the subs together and then to the amp a 1ohm? that would give each sub 600 watts right?

Wire okorder

I have a 2000 Mazda 626, and I am replacing the factory stereo with a Sony CDX-GT66UPW, I tried replacing it earlier and had to cut off the end plastic pieces for the original stereo wires and stripped the wires, So now I am trying to match up the wires from the new stereo with the old colors, But I don't know what color goes to what on the mazda? Can anyone give me a color coded diagram for the wiring?

2000 Mazda 626 Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Red Car Radio Ignition Switched 12V+ Wire: Blue/White Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis Car Stereo Illumination Wire: Red/Black Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Trigger Wire: N/A Front Speakers Size: 6″ x 8″ Speakers Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Green/Orange Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Green/Black Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Green Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Yellow/Green Rear Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Green Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Blue Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Black Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Blue/Orange

The drawing shows two long, straight wires that are suspended from the ceiling. The mass per unit of length of each wire is 0.050kg/m. Each of the four strings suspending the wires has a length of 1.2m. When the wires carry identical currents in opposite directions, the angel between the strings holding the two wires is 15 degrees. What is the current in each wire?? Im not sure what equations to use for this problem.

Look at it this way a current I2 causes a magnetic field. if a current I1 is in a magnetic field then a force acts on it. F=I1*B*dl where B=I2*(mu0)/(2*pi*d) So the force between those two wires is given by this equation F=I1*I2*(mu0)*dl/(2*pi*d) mu0=4*pi*10power7 d the distance between them In this case I1=I2 dl which shows the lenght of the wire in the magnetic field equals 1 because you do not care about it's lenght from here on it is rather simple I hope

Two wires, 2.44 m apart, both carry current 2.2 A toward the bottom of the screen. The right wire is extremely long, and the left wire is 0.36 m long. What is the magnetic force on the left wire?

Magnetic force, F = BIL --------(1) where B is the magnetic flux density of the magnetic field caused by the right wire, acting perpendicularly to the left wire in Tesla I is the current in the left wire in Amperes L is the length of the left wire in metres To find B (due to the right wire), you have to use the formula B = (?0)(I)/(2πr) -----(2) where the I in this case is the current in the right wire, r is the distance between the two wires, and ?0 is the permeability of free space, numerically defined as ?0 = 4π×10?7 using eqn (2) so B (due to right wire) = (?0x2.2)/(2πx2.44) = 1.8x10^-7 T using eqn (1) and the value of B calculated above F = (1.8x10^-7 x 2.2 x 0.36) = 1.43x10-7 N

I removed my old door chime/bell a few years ago and replaced it with a wireless one. That one quit working and now I am attempting to install a new wired one again. The only problem is, when I removed my old one way back, I failed to label the existing wires to where they go. I have two wires coming out of my wall mount, one white, one brown and the both have a white and red wire sticking out of them. I am not sure which one/ones will connect to the FRONT and TRANS posts on my new chime. I don't have a rear door bell button so that is not a problem. Which wire goes to the FRONT and TRANS and do I cap off any of the 4 wires? My installation instructions don't cover the mindless mistake of not having the wires labled.

If your old transformer is still working connecting the wires up wrong will burn it out in an instant. I have been there. The safest thing to do is locate your transformer and disconnect all the wires. Take the doorbell off and disconnect the wires. And then you have the chime off as well. Then use a continuity tester (has a battery and lights up or buzzes when the circuit is complete) and find out which wire goes where. You might have to string a temporary wire through the house to complete the circuit from downstairs to upstairs. Once you know which wire goes where you will be connecting a wire from one end of the transformer to the button a line from the button to the chime and a line from the chime to the transformer (a series circuit.) A voltmeter will tell you if the transformer is already burnt out. If you get a new transformer make sure you get one that matches the voltage requirement of the chimes (usually 16 volts.)

I am re wiring a hanging lamp. I know the black wire is the hot. My problem is this, the replacement wire is gold. There is no apparent groove in the wire, but one side does have writing on it. If I remember correctly the side with the writing is the hot?

That will work. Both wires are the same, but one needs to be assigned as black AT BOTH ENDS. You could use the wire with the writing in it, or mark one wire with black magic marker, and carefully trace that same wire to the other end and mark it with black magic marker too. (But if there is no groove in the wire insulation, you probably won't be able to trace one wire from one end to the other. In that case, you'd need to use an electrician's continuity meter to find the same wire at the other end). The other two answerer's are correct that the bulb will light, BUT it will be unsafe if wired backwards. NAILBENDER's answer fails to recognize the safety hazard of wiring the hot to the wrong side of a light. You don't want the hot side to electrify the threaded sides of an electrical light bulb fixture! The hot needs to be on the bottom center of the bulb fixture. ROODOG1's answer also fails to recognize that someone could get shocked when screwing in (or out) a light bulb and touching the threaded side of the bulb which may be hot if wired wrong. DILLIGAF makes the same error, even though he says he's an electrician! Read a do-it-yourself electricians website; don't rely on these people's answers! Exception: If your lamp is plug-in that does not have one prong wider than the other, then it doesn't make a difference which wire is hot because the plug goes into the receptacle either way.